Redshirt's Project BANZAI!

[cywelchjr]

I read an article a few years ago about a study done by some Camaro guys with a 2001 I believe Z28. They ran the oil something like 40000 miles, just changing the filter every 6000 miles and tipping off the oil. Since the LS1's tend to use oil, they were putting about a quart to 1 1/2 quart of oil every 6000 miles. They also did an analysis of the oil every 6k, and found as long as about a quart was getting added every 6k that it stayed within spec. They of course were using synthetic as is required in the LS1, but they postulated that the same in essence could have been done with dino oil. It's exactly the point that it's the additives which are consumed along with the build up of contaminants, and as long as you can keep the additive levels up, and the contaminants down, you could run the oil pretty much forever as long as you replaced oil lost with operation.

[natemoen]

Whatever, I am just going to change my oil.....

[Redshirt]

I inspected the carb boots and found that they are in better condition than expected. Although the outer rubber is cracked, the inner wall is in fine condition.
Still haven't cracked open the carbs. Kits are ordered though.

The CCT "thingy" on the front of the bike drips pretty heavily (after running) so while I was in a gasket-making mood I pulled it off, cleaned the surfaces and made a new gasket (ultra black RTV). That housing doesn't need to be torqued, does it? I know the lock-nut does, but what about the 2 bolts that secure it to the engine?

[natemoen]

You have to be careful with the cct. Sometime when you pull it off without having the valve.cover off the chain with slacken enough to jump a couple teeth on the crank gear....

[mack]

Careful

Under no circumstances should you allow the cams to rotate with the CCT out. To answer your question though the book calls for 7.2 ft/lbs on the two bolts. Usually the CCT leaks from the end where the black plug looking thing is. Clean it up good inside and go with RTV down there to stop it.

[Redshirt]

Thanks for the tip. Looks like I have to repull it and gasket-goo the interior at the black plug, avoiding anything moving about.

The carbs are proving difficult to pull apart. Pen oil is soaking in but the majority of the phillips screws arent moving yet.

[Ken Talbot]

Don't even try to loosen the phillips screws attaching the carbs to the rack without an impact driver:



Without it, you will destroy the heads of most of the screws that were installed with some form of loctite.

And, although there was no loctite, even the screws fastening the float bowls and the tops onto the carbs will benefit from use of an impact driver. This should be one of the first tool purchases you make when you acquire one of these machines.

[Redshirt]

looks like Im in for a new tool then.

[natemoen]

The real reason they don't like to come out is because the screws are not Philips head, they are really JIS. Looks just like Philips but its not. Get yourself some Allen head bolts and replace them all so you don't have to deal with them again!.

[DGXSER]

The impact will help you get them out. I just go ahead and use my dremel to cut a full slot in them and use a straight blade screw driver to pull the stuck ones out. Then replace them with the allen heads like Nate stated.

There is a kit on ebay for SS allen head bolts for the bowls and the caps fairly priced. I had not seen it and went out and bought them individually from a local hardware store and paid about twice the price of that kit.

[Redshirt]

Impact driver is heavenly! Everytime a stuck screw comes loose with it, an angel gets its wings .
I did have one screw on the top that didnt coop. so I took it to a mech and had him pull it (free!). Unfortunately I found out that the diaphram was not seated correctly and has a folded edge (about an inch or so, but no tear). Additionally, as I walked from the car to the workspace I dropped the @#$% thing in the sand. Many explitives were shouted.

I carefully brushed the sand off with a clean brush but I fear I have a few grains of sand inside the housing. Any cleaning tips? I wont touch it until I have an idea on what Im dealing with.
Im so mad at myself for letting this happen.

At least Im staring at carb #1's guts now. First jet is 137.5.

Questions: Can the brass floats be sprayed with carb cleaner too? The manual says put all metal (but no plastic or rubber pieces) in the cleaner, but Im double checking.
Also, the main nozzle removal: " carefully remove with needlenose pliers" does it slip out? I tried to pull it and it wont move. Does it screw into place or just sit in the hole?

[Redshirt]

Search function works. I used it. Proud of me?
"Float pin removal help" resolved.

[mack]

Delivery

I guess my package hasn't arrived yet. In it I included a wooden dowl for driving out the emulsion tubes and some fine wire for cleaning all the little holes and a spare set of jets so you could find the right screw drivers to fit perfectly before you started your carbs. The best tool for removing the float pins is a pair of side cutters. I believe there is a good picture and description in the carb maintenance section on this web.

[Redshirt]

Thanks, mack. I havent received anything yet, but thanks for the extras. That'll be a huge help for me.
Im excited to get it done, but difficult to take it real slow. Ounce of caution better than pound of cure... or something like that.

Im just cautiously exploring the first carb to get the feel for what I need to do without wrecking everything.

[natemoen]

Do a search for a thread titled carb cleaning 101 by wildkat. That will walk you through step by step with the carbs.