Redshirt's Project BANZAI!

[DGXSER]

Since you already isolated out the rings being the issue, and found the valves to be sealing well, repeating the compression test will not likely tell you much. I doubt the soaking you have done helped it all that much. But then, repeating the test will not hurt anything either. But I would run the engine for some time before taking any further steps into the repair process of the engine.

RTV Black silicone gasket maker is great for the valve cover, and easier than the actual gasket to keep in place. Besides, even with the factory gasket you still need a dab or two over the cam plugs anyway.

[Redshirt]

I wish i could put those 500 miles on it right now. The compression test will be done just for the experience of doing so. I didn't perform the initial test and Id like to try it. If I'm not hurting anything, might as well.

Then on to pull the carbs *insert dramatic music here*.

[DGXSER]

Make it easy on yourself, get the drama over first, and pull the carbs before you run the compression test. That way you do not need to worry about holding the throttle open.

[natemoen]

That's a interesting way to look at it! But works!

[cywelchjr]

Yep, there were those who claimed that you would get higher readings with the carbs off, and others who said it was not so. This was tested by a member and found that it made no difference, but since you gotta pull them anyways to clean them and deal with the boot issues, you may as well do the compression test with no carbs.

[Redshirt]

Did the compression test (before the suggestion of pulling carbs came up).
The battery is alittle low so it didnt get going too fast. All cyl read the same pressure.
That seems positive.

Im trying to pull the carbs and Im finding the bottom inner screws are fun to get to. My wrench is too long even on the short side. Gotta find the right tool and it will get along well I think.

I plan on ordering carb kits soon. ANy suggestions on a particular set?

Also I will be draining the oil and was wondering if on bikes you flush the system like on cars... that is, run fresh oil until clean oil starts coming out.
I suppose this is right and then a subsequent change is in order after anything left over cycles through the system from running it.
Suggestions on oil change?

[Redshirt]

Carbs off. I was doing it the hard way. It pays to read everything before going crazy.

[natemoen]

Carb kits. There is a seller in ebay named Georgefix. He has good parts, is knowledgeable, and easy to deal with, is is reasonably priced.

As for the flushing, no need. If you really want to do something just do a couple short interval oil changes.

[TopCatGr58]

Did the compression test (before the suggestion of pulling carbs came up).
The battery is alittle low so it didnt get going too fast. All cyl read the same pressure.
That seems positive.

You can safely jump a CAR battery to the bike battery to provide the power to spin the engine at a decent pace to provide a better chance for better readings.

Im trying to pull the carbs and Im finding the bottom inner screws are fun to get to. My wrench is too long even on the short side. Gotta find the right tool and it will get along well I think.

Wrench?? The carbs are held on with phillips screw clamps around the boots. They are sometimes positioned/rotated a bit, but usually reachable with a modest length phillips head screw driver. Okay, guess you're trying to pull the float bowls first....or drain them first as suggested earlier....DOH!

I plan on ordering carb kits soon. ANy suggestions on a particular set?

Look up George Fix on Ebay. Most folks only need the float needle/seat and gasket, the seat O-ring for 80-81 series, possibly the float bowl gasket. The pilot jet screws if the tips are bent/broken on the earlier 78-79 series. The jets usually don't need changing UNLESS you want to change sizes.

Also I will be draining the oil and was wondering if on bikes you flush the system like on cars... that is, run fresh oil until clean oil starts coming out.
I suppose this is right and then a subsequent change is in order after anything left over cycles through the system from running it.
Suggestions on oil change?

Most folks change their oil on 3K or less intervals, some warm it up before draining. You can check thru the site glass to see if it looks dark, but you stated that the oil looked clean on the valves...but that's a very thin remainder film you're seeing after it's all drained back down into the engine crankcase. You can put a stick into the oil filler spout, dip it into it and pull it out and inspect it's appearance, smell...dark and burnt...or clear/light colored!?

Another way to help loosen the rings is to put several ounces of MMO into the crank, run the engine with NO LOAD/No Riding up to operating temps, gentle revs, no FULL THROTTLE, while on center stand, go thru the gears operating the clutch and shifter a few times. MMO can remove the varnish and gum/sludge very well, drain, then replace with oil of your choice....see the hundreds of oil threads you'll find on a search....Dino or partial Synth, but not FULL SYNTH....increased risks of clutch slippage and leaks....for your local in Fla. spring/summer/fall....20/50 range.....possibly switching to 10/40 winter....YMMV.

Please do a search regarding above statements of synth and clutch slippage, lots of debate depending on current condition of clutch/frictions/springs, if weak/borderline....Synth can make worse, others with rebuilt clutches have used Synth with no problems...again YMMV!

T.C.

[cywelchjr]

Also I will be draining the oil and was wondering if on bikes you flush the system like on cars... that is, run fresh oil until clean oil starts coming out.
I suppose this is right and then a subsequent change is in order after anything left over cycles through the system from running it.
Suggestions on oil change?

Never heard of that method on anything. I was taught (in auto shop in HS and other places) to warm up the engine, and then drain the oil and remove the filter, remembering to open the top (the oil fill) to let air in easily so it fully drains. Then when it stops dripping (I always let it air dry for a little while) put the plug back in, and put the new filter on, then fill it with the proper amount, run for a short time to circulate and then shut down and give it a few minutes before checking the level and topping off.

Never hear of the other thing, but even if you did something like that your never going to get a 100% change anyways, just as long as you get almost all of it your fine.

I knew a guy as a kid that used one of those toilet paper roll filters, and he never changed his oil. Just changed the filter/TP and topped it off. His oil never changed color significantly. I don't know that I would do that, but I have read more than one article over the years that imply that oil actually gets better as long as you keep it clean as it's used longer. You change it because filters don't get everything out, and eventually it builds up to harmful levels, but the oil if you could re-refine and clean it is actually better when you take it out then when it went in, as I said, except for the impurities from usage.

[XSive_speed]

I knew a guy as a kid that used one of those toilet paper roll filters, and he never changed his oil. Just changed the filter/TP and topped it off. His oil never changed color significantly. I don't know that I would do that, but I have read more than one article over the years that imply that oil actually gets better as long as you keep it clean as it's used longer. You change it because filters don't get everything out, and eventually it builds up to harmful levels, but the oil if you could re-refine and clean it is actually better when you take it out then when it went in, as I said, except for the impurities from usage.

I've heard of something similar before. This may be mis-information, but what I recall was something about oil companies providing over-the-road truckers with some sort of an ultra-fine filter, which was changed regularly. Additionally, they had to monitor oil viscosity. The danger was that the blow by gasses from combustion could potentially collect in the oil and cause it to break down. As long as the oil did not break down (as indicated by viscosity), just keep the filter changed and you were good to go.

Not sure about any long term results on this sort of testing, but it would be interesting if anybody had a link. Personally, I'll just go ahead and change the oil. Its cheap insurance to keep an already old machine going strong.

[natemoen]

Doesn't oil eventually start turning acidic as it ages inside the engine Cy?

I have heard people that will open the oil fill cap, remove the plug and then start the engine and let it run for a couple minutes after the oil stops coming out. This was of course in an effort to get every drop of old oil out.....

[petejw]

I have heard people that will open the oil fill cap, remove the plug and then start the engine and let it run for a couple minutes after the oil stops coming out. This was of course in an effort to get every drop of old oil out.....

hi nate,
i would never start an engine to drain the oil, to much risk in doing damage to the bearings, but you could crank the engine over with the starter a few times to spit a little bit of the old oil out.

[natemoen]

hi nate,
i would never start an engine to drain the oil, to much risk in doing damage to the bearings, but you could crank the engine over with the starter a few times to spit a little bit of the old oil out.

Oh, I totally agree (should have specified it was not a good idea) I think it is absolutely stupid to do something like that.

[T99Ford]

Interestingly enough, I just returned from an oil school put on by Viscosity Oil. According to Viscosity, neither petroleum or synthetic oils fundamentally "break down" during operation. Two things are actually the reason for oil change:

1. Accumulated water, acid, etc in the oil. This is partially caused by number 2 below, but is also dependent on operating conditions or poor filtration. Or,

2. The main reason for oil change. Additives are blended with the base stock to react with the acid causing byproducts of combustion. These additives are actually like a catalyst, and are a consumable portion of the oil. Thus, when the additives are used up, it is time to change the oil. That is why oil can be recycled. Another interesting side note. Viscosity blends both synthetic and petroleum oil. Neither oil can be run for an extended interval over the oil (in fact, must be changed at the recommended interval). The reason again being that both oils contain the same, or nearly the same additives, which deplete during operation. Hence oil manufacturers should not (legally) be advertising extended service intervals. Not through fault of the oil, but rather the additive package. Obviously, if compared, the oil with the more extensive additive package will run longer. Not sure without analysis how you would find that, though.