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UJ joint removal

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  • UJ joint removal

    Is it supposed to be possible to remove the UJ joint from the drive shaft without removing the swinging arm? Or the middle gearbox?

    Having greased my spare UJ joint, I thought I'd do the one on the bike. I've read that it might be easier to drain and remove the middle gearbox, rather than remove the swinging arm.......but is it possible to avoid either of these?

    Any advice, anyone?
    Last edited by James England; 02-05-2011, 12:35 PM.
    XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

  • #2
    You will need to remove one or the other. No room for anything else.
    Ray Matteis
    KE6NHG
    XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
    XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

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    • #3
      Originally posted by DiverRay View Post
      You will need to remove one or the other. No room for anything else.
      I thought someone would say that. I'll take the swinging arm off and renew the bearings while I'm at it.........
      XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

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      • #4
        I just thought about it. IF you pulled the final drive and drive shaft, you MAY be able to squeeze the u-joint out. Problem is the rubber over the joint. I would think you would tear it trying.
        Ray Matteis
        KE6NHG
        XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
        XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

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        • #5
          I tried it once and I tore the boot

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          • #6
            Thanks for that, folks. I removed the swinging arm last night and, since I was at it, stripped the paint from it completely, removed the old bearings (which had virtually no grease in them) then removed all the rust by dipping it for several hours in rust remover. Got it repainted today and it's now drying nicely and awaiting the installation of new bearings. The old races came out easily enough with a metal bar, tapped reasonably hard from inside the swingarm.

            Once the paint is dry, I'll get the bearings in, put the now re-lubed UJ joint back on and get it all back together. Definitely a worthwhile exercise.

            Those boots are expensive new (if still available), so thanks for the warnings re tearing them......
            XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

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