Cylinder compression bad?

[natemoen]

That's what I am saying, just.cause it doesn't burn doesn't mean it shouldn't be changed. I would say dip the stick on the oil walk away from the bike and smell it. Of you still smell it when you 30 feet away from the tank, its in there even if the oil won't light on fire.

[cywelchjr]

Yep, I'd say that the best way is to follow the "if in doubt, throw it out" method.

[DGXSER]

First, I agree that if you have any doubt as to if gas in there, change the oil. It is cheap cheap insurance.

If your smelling gas, your smelling the vapors it gives off. And the vapors is what ignites readily. The boiling point of gasoline is very low, so at atmospheric it wants to be a vapor, and it will tend to ride on top of the oil. That is the reason I feel comfortable with this being a very good "litmis" test.

[Redshirt]

My local friend is going to help me check the valves and go from there. Ii will be reading the service manual and trying to comprehend what I am being told as well as keeping you guys in the loop. I want to tap into the knowledge here so expect to see me more.

I will take pics of the bike (as is) and then keep a running post on its progress when we start work.
First: pull the tank, disconnect the battery.
Then: spray the screws with a penetrationg oil, let sit, then pop open "the hood".
Carbs gotta come off and depending on what we find with the valves, the next step will be determined.

Oil will be changed. Brakes will get flushed and calipers checked (we suspect the rear is dragging a bit).

I will get Antisieze liquid and penetrating oil to start.
Baby steps for me.
Once it all kicks off, I think I will start a new thread since this has gone from Compression questions to a ton of other things.

[crazy steve]

Brakes will get flushed and calipers checked (we suspect the rear is dragging a bit)..

Do yourself a favor and do more than just flush the system. If the system is known to be reasonably clean, that's ok to do. But if you suspect anything, the only way to have reliable brakes is to fully disassemble and clean everything.

I've got a rear caliper in the scrap pile that the PO was having a little trouble with it 'dragging'... it finally locked up. By the time he got it home, the caliper was melted, the rotor was shot, and he damaged the clutch...

[natemoen]

I agree with Steve. If you don't know when last cleaned, best is to pull it apart and do a thorough cleaning. The brakes on these are barely adequate at best , anything less is unsafe.

[mack]

shims

I'd be surprised if the shims themself are out of tolerance. Not very many miles it it yet. Unless of course the PO had a go at it and did the math wrong. May need lapping or bent valve exchange. Either way the carbs and boots have to come off. I'd address the oil light issue first thing.