Cylinder compression bad?

[Redshirt]

It occured to me that opening things up may necessitate new seals. Should I invest in a gasket set for the engine? They run around $100 for an entire engine set. Is this something I should put on the list of musts?

My "chief financial officer" has agreed that the compression gauge is cleared for procurement

Im making a list of tools, parts, and supplies (cleaners, fluids, etc). If anyone can recommend anything or warn me against any Id appreciate it.

My tool set is a large basic combination of normal wrenches, drivers, and pliers. Nothing particularly specialized, if you get my meaning.

[CatatonicBug]

The only gaskets you need are the head gasket, exhaust gasket and carb float bowl gaskets. All other gaskets can be replaced with RTV (the stuff in a tube). My favorite actually comes in a can, called "The Right Stuff" by Permatex. There really aren't any fancy tools needed to work on these bikes. A compressor helps, and a decent set of regular metric tools are really all you need unless you're doing a major engine overhaul.

[DGXSER]

Torque wrench....get an inch pound one for the small fasteners and a larger one for the clutch nut and axles and such.

[Wet Rock]

You sometimes can borrow some tools at the parts store(I dont know if you have to buy things, grease? to get a tourqe wrench for some "bearing work"
Spark plugs for a compression gauge?
Friend that lends and helps, pawn shop.

It occured to me that opening things up may necessitate new seals. Should I invest in a gasket set for the engine? They run around $100 for an entire engine set. Is this something I should put on the list of musts?

My "chief financial officer" has agreed that the compression gauge is cleared for procurement

Im making a list of tools, parts, and supplies (cleaners, fluids, etc). If anyone can recommend anything or warn me against any Id appreciate it.

My tool set is a large basic combination of normal wrenches, drivers, and pliers. Nothing particularly specialized, if you get my meaning.

[MaximPhil]

Hi Redshirt,
so here we are less than 36 hours since you asked the first question and we're on page FOUR already.
I had to wait over a year to ride mine so you are lucky already
Lots of good advice already.
We like pictureas and if yoy ad you year and model into your signature you do not need to repeat each time you ask a question.
Phil

[mack]

Tools

Two winters ago I was in your exact spot. My bike sat in a raspberry patch for 18 years. I had bad comp numbers (50 -70 range)as well. I elected to tear it down completely and restore everything so I could be confident it was safe to ride. Piece of mind for me as my kids would be on it with me. I had no prior mechanical knowledge but htere is so much sage advise here and I love the various opinions and good natured arguments in some of the threads. I pulled the head and lapped the valves, replaced the stem seals and reshimmed the whole works. Made a big difference in my comp numbers but two were still low. TC and others said to ride it and enjoy for 500 miles and check them again. I did that and sure enough my numbers are spec now.
I used to be a golfer so everytime gifts were exchanged I got something in that genre. I haven't golfed in years. I made a list of tools I needed and did all the research for brand names etc for exactly what I wanted and prepared a list by priority. Then everytime it was gift exchange time, birthday, x-mas etc. Everyone knew what I really wanted and they all talked to each other so nothing was doubled. I have a very nice collection now. Compression gages, colour tune, sync gages, valve removal tool, etc. Best tools I have are a mismatched set of screw drivers. These I gathered myself with various carb jets etc in my pocket. Some are long handled and some are short, some I've ground down to fit perfectly for their application. This set resides in a special " daddy tool box " and are never available for loan or mixed with the other screw drivers in my shop. I too wound up drilling out an idle mixure screw cuz the bone head that had my spare set of cabs before me tried to get it out using a driver too small for the job and f.....d it up. I have a valve shim removal tool I bought in 81 if you want it. Shipping cost only. I don't use it. PM me if you want it.

[TopCatGr58]

Here's hoping you don't go BERSERK!

From an old book of word origins, BERSERK translated into "bare shirted", what warriors would do...rip off their shirts before working themselves into a rage for battle!

Okay, those comp levels are good except for the #2, and does indicate valves. I would suggest getting the special valve "lifter" shim holder for now, then once you get more experience, pulling the cams. But they(cam bearing caps) only require very small torque amounts, and can be easily stripped if overtorqued. Your mech may even be willing to SWAP shims once you get the one out, and calculate what size you need, otherwise check your local dealership, has been posted that the shims are shared by other brands as well, even car, but I can't recall exactly which ones right now!

Tools: Metric wrench/socket set...usually 8mm thru 17 or 19mm, but will need to pick up a few LARGER special sockets ie. for clutch basket nut.
Set of quality screwdrivers and metric allen wrenches, either angled or attached to socket driver heads or "T" handles.
As stated, both inch/lb torque as well as foot/lbs wrench.
The deflector needle type are usually cheaper, not quite as accurate but have served me just fine.

As stated, ONLY if you have to pull the head would/should you need to invest in the gasket set. Another sealant is YAMABOND, or Threebond. Plain RTV isn't that good, but gasket making RTV is better. You can also make your own gaskets with just a roll of gasket paper and a marker, single hole punch, and an exacto knife/razor blade, even scissors!

I wouldn't be in such a rush to get an OEM airbox. R&R of the carbs is much easier with PODS, and tuning them isn't as hard or tough as folks have made it out to be, besides you already have the PODS, so No more $$ needed. You'll be getting carb kits, and from George Fix, you can get the proper size mains you'll possibly need. The jetting guide in the tech tips can give you a good starting point, I can't recall but I think you have OEM exhausts, and so with PODS, you may only need a couple of sizes larger than STOCK 137.5 mains to compensate, and can probably keep the stock pilot jets.

Yep, see the tech tips regarding spooge hole for brake mastercylinder, but most likely cleaning the calipers, removing the corrosion that builds up in the O-ring groove will get the pistons moving so that they won't hang up, and the rotors won't get overheated from drag.

Several cans of spray carb cleaner should be all you need, you don't need a bucket of cleaner dunk fluid, and you don't want to soak the body in it anyways...will damage the butterfly shaft seals.

Check valve clearance, set to spec if out, if in spec, then move to carbs.
Clean carbs and rejet for pods.
Fix boots. Note...synch port caps of boots harden, replace to prevent vac leaks. Also pull boots from engine, check engine side of boots for cracked/pealing rubber=vac. leaks, clean, then use Threebond or gaskets or both to reseal them back to head. Vac. Adv. hose goes to metal port nipple on #2 carb body, NOT to boot synch nipple! Don't forget inline fuel filters.
Put pods back on.
Fix brake calipers and bleed.
Treat engine with MMO, then change oil/filter.
Drain and replace the Middle and Final Drive gear boxes....80/90 wt hypoid.
Pull final drive off swingarm to check/regrease driveshaft splines.
Check/clean many of the large electrical connectors and contacts, grounds to frame ie behind/below carbs at starter as well as battery to frame.
IF glass fuses, replace with SOLID type.
Pick up an inexpensive multimeter from harbor Freight or such, should be able to find for under $10.00, for volts, ohms, mostly!
RIDE a few hundred miles, and then recheck compression.

T.C.

[DGXSER]

TC's note on making your own gaskets reminded me, there is a link here somewhere, but the UK XS11 site has a great tool, they list every gasket in the engine and have a link to let you print out the actual full size gasket template, holes laid out and all. It is awesome in my opinion!

[Redshirt]

http://www.benefiscal.co.uk/forum/in...p?topic=4997.0

I found the gasket template link. Im sure to be using this, unless advised otherwise.

I think I will hit the pawn shops tomorrow for a tool search.

I may tinker with rejetting for the pods. Just not sure what Im getting myself into yet.

Question regarding carb spray cleaner: If I hose the carbs with this stuff, are the butterflies going to risk damage?

The To Do list is growing by the minute. The more I ask, the more questions I have. Hey... wait a minute... its a TRAP!

[Ken Talbot]

http://www.benefiscal.co.uk/forum/in...p?topic=4997.0
Question regarding carb spray cleaner: If I hose the carbs with this stuff, are the butterflies going to risk damage?

The butterflies will be okay if you're just spraying. The seals on the butterfly shaft are prone to damage if you soak the whole assembly in a bath of cleaner for an extended period of time. And, as long as you wear eye protection when you spray, your eyes will be okay too. When you get to blasting spray carb cleaner through the wee orifices, you will be mightily impressed with how far it will spray out of another wee orifice that you didn't even know existed, that just happened to be pointing directly at your face. BTDT!!!!

[Redshirt]

Ive been reminded that my oil light that is on at all times may need to be addressed before cranking it up too much.
When I check the valves I will see if its the oil sending unit electrical connection or not.
Where is the pump pick-up screen located?
I have also noticed a leak (sure looks like new oil... very clear) dripping quite a bit from the cam chain tensioner housing.

I smelled the engine oil and, it may just be me, but I think there is a hint of gassy smell. Not overpowering, but either I was expecting the smell (as I was prompted to check) or it really is there. Cant tell. So what kind of hell am I in for now?

[natemoen]

Cam chain tensioner is a notorious oil leak point. Of your removing the valve cover you could remove the cct (just make sure to keep the chain tight when you remove the cct so you don't jump a root on the crank gear) and clean it up and seal it all back together with rtv or replace it with a nice automatic tensioner.

The oil pump pickup is bottom center under (i guess technically over) the oil pan.

[DGXSER]

Ive been reminded that my oil light that is on at all times may need to be addressed before cranking it up too much.
When I check the valves I will see if its the oil sending unit electrical connection or not.

One way to check is to loosen the oil tube bolt at the head and crank it to see if oil is getting pushed out there. If you got good oil pressure there, it is something to do with the snesor or the electical. Sometimes the end of the sensor (in the engine) gets covered and needs to be cleaned. It is not as uncommon as one would hope that the oil pump idler gear (sits behind the clutch on the end of the shift fork shaft) comes loose and may be sittign in the clutch pan or the oil pan.

Where is the pump pick-up screen located?

In the oil pan on the bottom of the engine attached to the oil pump.

I have also noticed a leak (sure looks like new oil... very clear) dripping quite a bit from the cam chain tensioner housing.

Yep they are notorious for this, especially the end, like a kid with a cold and drippy nose. depending where it is leaking can be a simple fix.

I smelled the engine oil and, it may just be me, but I think there is a hint of gassy smell. Not overpowering, but either I was expecting the smell (as I was prompted to check) or it really is there. Cant tell. So what kind of hell am I in for now?

With carb issues of cleanliness this is not uncommon. First, put a stick in the oil in the engine and take it outside, try to light the stick on fire. If it has gas in the oil, the stick will light and burn, if not, it will be tough at best to get it to light. If there is gas, drain the oil and change the filter and fix the carbs before you try to run it again.

[natemoen]

With carb issues of cleanliness this is not uncommon. First, put a stick in the oil in the engine and take it outside, try to light the stick on fire. If it has gas in the oil, the stick will light and burn, if not, it will be tough at best to get it to light. If there is gas, drain the oil and change the filter and fix the carbs before you try to run it again.

Maybe I said this here before, but how accurate is this test? I agree that if the oil lights it needs to be changed, but how much gas does it take to make the oil light, and how much gas does it take for it to cause a problem in the oil?

What I am saying is that just cause it does not light, does that mean the oil is not sufficiently thinned by gas to cause a problem.

[TopCatGr58]

Accurate enough to be posted on StreetRodStuff.com.

http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Articl...Contamination/

I can't remember where I read it, but as little as 1% contamination can be fatal to the bearings! That's about 30cc's or almost 1 ounce of fuel in 3 quarts! If you smell fuel, best to drain/change it! Much cheaper than trying to replace your main crank/rod bearings!

T.C.