put new handlebars on my XS11 SG and.. NO BRAKES??? super-tight clutch????

[jshepard935]

took the original handlebars OFF and put some drag bars on..

but the brakes don't respond at all anymore.. it has new fluid, and i see no leaks... is it something to do with the calipers? I just put fresh brake pads on.. is that the issue as well? what do I do??? i think it must be because the brake line is so much looser, but i don't really know.. the brake line curves, but isn't folded anywhere.. is there a way to tighten the line or something? can I get a laymen's explanation?

also, the clutch lever works but is EXTREMELY tight.. i just saw a video on fixing this, so I think it won't be an issue..

please help.. it would be much appreciated..

[natemoen]

Is the brake master cylinder tipped, or is it still sitting level? If its tipped you might have air in the line. Bends don't really make a difference for brake lines.

The clutch I am guessing there is some extra bends in the cable so the outer cable is pitching the inner cable. Bends do make a difference here.

[jshepard935]

Is the brake master cylinder tipped, or is it still sitting level? If its tipped you might have air in the line. Bends don't really make a difference for brake lines.

The clutch I am guessing there is some extra bends in the cable so the outer cable is pitching the inner cable. Bends do make a difference here.

someone just explained to me how to take care of the air problem with the brakes.. REALLY hope it works because a 600 pound bike isn't going to be driven, pushed, or towed without front breaks or a pair of well-trained gorillas..

so what would you do about the clutch cable issue? the cable itself is pretty long, but I know a lot of people have opted for drag bars and surely found a way to solve this issue.. do I just need to tug on the clutch cable and try to space these bends out all along the line?

[natemoen]

Get a shorter clutch cable.

You can try routing the cable so that the bands are fewer and gentler, but don't just tug on it cause you will just brake the cable.

[natemoen]

And how is your brake master cylinder sitting?

[jshepard935]

And how is your brake master cylinder sitting?

right-side-up, if that's what you mean.. i found out that turning it over released an air bubble into the line, which was an inevitable part of taking off the handlebars and crown in order to replace the ears.. inevitable for someone who doesn't know better, that is.. it's sitting up level now.. so when i get my new air cap in the mail and put it on the fork, i'll do the "bleed out the air" thing that was just explained to me..

what clutch cable can I use? just any motorcycle clutch cable? that would be awfully convenient..

[natemoen]

I more am asking if it is sitting level when the bike is.

[jshepard935]

I more am asking if it is sitting level when the bike is.

it is now, but it had laid upside-down while the handlebars rested on the gas tank so i could get to the headlamp mounts..

[natemoen]

Yeah you probably need to rebleed them then.

[jshepard935]

i hope so.. if had the money for a new set of brakes, i wouldn't be doing all of this work myself.. lol.. then again, i wouldn't be screwing things up in the process..

thanks..

so what about the clutch cable? what are the specifications? do I need to look for a shorter "XS1100 Special" clutch cable, or should I be more or less specific? remember, i'm just trying to find something shorter.. my current cable is fine, but tight do to the bends caused by the new drag bars..

[ThrottleJunky]

I could not believe how long it took to bleed the master cylinder and the brake lines on these bikes. It was astounding how long it took me to finally get a good pedal and lever.

[fredintoon]

Hi Shep,
by the time you've bled out the front brakes (and it can be a swine of a job) you'll appreciate this tip.
How to change 'bars without inverting the m/c.
Slacken the m/c & twistgrip screws but leave the parts in place.
Remove the 'bar clamps.
Move the 'bar sideways to the left then slide the m/c off and bunjie it somewhere safe so it can't tilt.
Your clutch cable has gone stiff because there's too many bends in it.
Try this.
Take the cable off completely.
You may as well inspect, clean and lube it while it's off.
Put it back on the bike to run in a single swoop in free air from the clutch lever down to the clutch.
See how easy the clutch releases with no sharp bends in the cable?
Now you are motivated to arrange the cable's run with as few kinks as possible; or like me, say "f**k how it looks" and leave it there.

[crazy steve]

One thing nobody noted was the fact he put new pads on. I suspect that pushing the pistons in for the pads may have disturbed 'junk' in the calipers and one or both of the pistons are probably now bound up. If the brake system wasn't opened up for the bars change, that shouldn't have had any affect. Try bleeding the system, but if that doesn't do it, I'd pull the calipers/master cylinder and disassemble/clean 'em...

[natemoen]

Good point, never thought of that!

[fredintoon]

One thing nobody noted was the fact he put new pads on. I suspect that pushing the pistons in for the pads may have disturbed 'junk' in the calipers and one or both of the pistons are probably now bound up. If the brake system wasn't opened up for the bars change, that shouldn't have had any affect. Try bleeding the system, but if that doesn't do it, I'd pull the calipers/master cylinder and disassemble/clean 'em...

Hi Steve,
Shep's posts imply, though he don't actually say, that his lever goes all the way back to the grip but the calipers don't move.
That's almost certainly air in the system.
OTOH, if the bike is a new acquisition and there's no record of when the brakes were last dismantled and cleaned, I agree with you, Shep can't go wrong in doing that.