1ST gear Washer swap?

[SFerinTEXAS]

Looking at my spare set of shaft and gears it is apparent that 1st and 4th could stand a little more engagement than designed. Has anyone looked into the idea of taking the washer between 1st and 4th and putting it between 1st and the middle drive gear? This would allow more engagement by moving 1st closer to 4th for sure BUT what would it do to the rest of things? like shift fork, and 1st gear to mainshaft? This is on the XJ so kickstart gear is a non factor.

Looking for someone who has considered this before and why it wont work.

would like to keep conjecture to a minimum

[bikerphil]

It has been tried, I don't think it worked out so well according to this...

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...ar+washer+swap

[3Phase]

SFer,

Moving the OEM 1st gear wheel washer brings 1st and 4th a little too close together. The 1st gear wheel slots can hit the 4th gear wheel dogs, especially when the bike is in neutral on the side stand. Murphy will decide if the bike just rolls off the side stand and stalls or if you get chase it around the parking lot.

Moving the OEM washer and adding a thinner shim washer between the 1st gear wheel retaining clip to control the 1st/4th spacing moves the entire gear cluster and the shaft to the left the distance of the thickness of the new shim.

The retaining bolt on the right side of the shaft may not hold because the shaft will be recessed too far into the inner race of the right side case bearing. The retaining bolt won't seat against the end of the shaft and the inner bearing race so the retaining bolt can work loose and allow the shaft to float back and forth in the case. The shaft cannot float very far but the gear wheel spacing is critical. It is possible to re-shim and correct the shaft and retaining bolt spacing or use the evil red Locktite but I haven't tried it myself.

When the retaining bolt comes loose it backs out and hits the clutch basket. It is noisy, it can destroy the bolt and the clutch basket and it puts metal bits into the engine oil.

When the shaft floats in the case the entire gear cluster moves with it except 4th and 5th. 4th and 5th slide on the shaft but are held in position by the shift forks.

When the shaft floats: 1st can float too close to 4th and hit the 4th gear wheel dogs. 2nd can float too close to 5th and hit the 5th gear wheel dogs. It makes an unholy racket, destroys the gear dogs and slots and puts more, harder, metal bits in the engine oil.

[SFerinTEXAS]

Knew someone had gone there before. Thanks guys, sticking a fork in that idea.

[3Phase]

Knew someone had gone there before. Thanks guys, sticking a fork in that idea.

Eh, don't get discouraged! It can be done but you have to be very careful because it's not as straight-forward as the 2nd gear washer swap.

If I have to go back into the transmission on my bike again (possible because it keeps eating starfish washers and dropping shift drum pins into the oil pan) I'll have another complete shaft/gear cluster already set up, shimmed and ready to go.