Charging problems

[CatatonicBug]

The test procedures for the Reg/Rect are located in the manual. I had an issue with mine about a year ago, and ended up buying a used replacement. Then, I got a used Geezer one, and that made a big difference in the electricity flow.

If you end up needing a Reg/Rect, you can have my used OEM one for shipping cost.

[jorge lobo]

Ok I did tested again whit a new tester and did the test in my car all ok then I test the bike and at Idle I got 11.20v
And at 4000rpm I got 13.60v

[jorge lobo]

The test procedures for the Reg/Rect are located in the manual. I had an issue with mine about a year ago, and ended up buying a used replacement. Then, I got a used Geezer one, and that made a big difference in the electricity flow.

If you end up needing a Reg/Rect, you can have my used OEM one for shipping cost.

Yep it looks like is the reg/rec
It will be great if I can get yours just let me know how we do this

[DAVINCI]

your readings are not too far off, i bet if you went through all of the connectors and cleaned them, the voltage would come up a few points.

[jorge lobo]

Ok thanks I will do that tomorrow afternoon the old lady is bitching already
I let you know show it goes

[CatatonicBug]

your readings are not too far off, i bet if you went through all of the connectors and cleaned them, the voltage would come up a few points.

I agree... You may not need a new Reg/Rect. At idle, the battery is not being charged at all. At 2500 RPM, the Reg/Rect kicks in and starts charging stuff, raising the voltage. I bet that Davinci is right, and if you clean more connections, you'd see more improvement. Concentrate on the grounds. Remember that the Reg/Rect gorunds itself to the frame at it's mounting holes, and corrosion collects underneath there. Take it off and clean the surfaces, and dab some anti-sieze on the contact patches. The same is true for the other ground straps.

Also, be sure the big white connector behind the fuse box panel is clean. Mine heated up and melted due to corrosion, shorting out the alternator.

If you still feel you need the reg/rect. just shoot me a PM.

[MaximPhil]

I would put a charger on the battery to make sure it is fully charged when you are doing your tests.
Phil

[cywelchjr]

The best way(s) are described above. Have you checked the alternator case to see if there is a magnetic field there when the key is on? A small paper clip should be attracted to it when the key is on. One other way is to unplug it and then start. You should get a below 12v reading at the battery. That would prove that either the reg is toast OR you have a short to ground on the green wire. Then check the green on the harness for a short to ground. If no short, replace the reg.

Umm, well, I guess if it's really running that high, then yes, something could be shorting the green wire, but that's a failure mode I've never heard of on these things, and I don't really think it would die and quit running under those circumstances, as it's been done (by someone on here before) to ground the green wire to get home when the reg failed. You don't want to do it too long, but it will at least keep the systems going. I think it may be that his tester is way off, and that it's not even reaching 14v which is the minimum to charge a lead acid battery. I'd be interested to know what the tester shows with the key off across the battery, as that may well tell what is happening (if it reads normally then I would agree that there is likely something going on with the reg and it shorting the green wire (or the wire is shorted to ground somewhere).

[cywelchjr]

your readings are not too far off, i bet if you went through all of the connectors and cleaned them, the voltage would come up a few points.

He's almost a full volt below spec, and I doubt any amount of cleaning is going to get all the way up there. It appears it may have the same symptoms mine had when one of the rectifiers went out (before the whole thing did) and nothing would get full voltage, changed the reg and all was good (and still is too).

You might get .5 volts from cleaning everything, barring the white connector behind the fuse box being toast, but that would still be almost a half volt low.

Now, I make the caveat that if the battery is low, that might account for it, however, I've never seen that make the bike die running down the road as he describes.

[natemoen]

He never said that the bike dies while driving down the road anywhere in the thread.

[Rickrod3]

I second this

your readings are not too far off, i bet if you went through all of the connectors and cleaned them, the voltage would come up a few points.

You would be surprised how many problems are solved from dirty connections.
http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/connectors.html
Check our Geezer's site for replacement connectors and tools.

Good Luck
Rick

[natemoen]

You would be surprised how many problems are solved from dirty connections.
http://www.oregonmotorcycleparts.com/connectors.html
Check our Geezer's site for replacement connectors and tools.

Good Luck
Rick

And if you do end up needing a new reg/rec grid also the one to get one from. Far superior to oem.

[Incubus]

Almost any connection can cause a drop in charging voltage if it is corroded. If it is in the main charging system it inhibits flow. If it is an auxiliary system, like th3e lights, it can cause the connection to draw more power to do the same job, not only constricting charging but also building up heat and melting and burning stuff.

I have reclaimed as much as .2 volt from a single dirty connection on my old Hondas. I agree that if he is getting more than 13 volts right now he is close and his reg/rec is probably fine.

Get some ultrafine sandpaper or steel wool and get to polishing.

Patrick

[cywelchjr]

Almost any connection can cause a drop in charging voltage if it is corroded. If it is in the main charging system it inhibits flow. If it is an auxiliary system, like th3e lights, it can cause the connection to draw more power to do the same job, not only constricting charging but also building up heat and melting and burning stuff.

I have reclaimed as much as .2 volt from a single dirty connection on my old Hondas. I agree that if he is getting more than 13 volts right now he is close and his reg/rec is probably fine.

Get some ultrafine sandpaper or steel wool and get to polishing.

Patrick

Ok, the burning and melting stuff I can go with. Corroded connections in lighting, no, it's not going to happen. You cannot increase current in a circuit by increasing resistance, it goes the other way, if you add resistance (like corroded connections) you drop the voltage in that circuit as it becomes a resister in the line, which DECREASES current flow. I'll agree however that it will cause heat where it's not supposed to be and can melt connectors.

I'll agree that if the connectors involved in the charging circuit have not been cleaned that the voltage can be down a bit. Based on the small number of them though (there are only like 3) involved in that circuit I wouldn't bet on it bringing it up to spec though. From the symptoms it looks if not the connectors like part of the rectifier bridge is gone, which would decrease the max available voltage at any RPM. And there IS one of the connections that if it's dropping voltage will actually create and OVERCHARGE situation as the reg sees the voltage as low and cranks it up too high.

[Incubus]

Jorge, do you have an aftermarket Halogen headlight? A higher wattage than stock could draw juice enough to lower the voltage at the battery. Any other electrics, like running lights, GPS, radio or anything?

When you tested the voltage at the battery, how long did you hold the motor at 4,000 rpm? Did you just rev it up there for a couple seconds or did you hold it for 10-15 seconds? The gauge can continue climbing at a slower rate for a while after it might seemed to have peaked.

Patrick