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  • Cylinder head nuts

    Hi All. I'd like to replace the four outer cylinder head nuts/washers on my engine. The original ones are unattractive and a bit rusty. I was considering undoing one nut fully, immediately putting on the replacement nut and washer and tightening up to 23 foor pounds torque, then moving on to the next nut.

    I realise that, when removing a cylinder head or tightening it back down, a gradual loosening in specific order is needed in order to avoid buckling the head. But, what do people think of removing just one nut completely as per above? I really don't want to unbolt the entire head in sequence, just to replace two nuts per side. Is there a risk of buckling the head, do you think? Has anyone already done anything like this already??
    XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

  • #2
    Done it, no problems. Manual says to use oil on the threads.
    Former owner, but I have NO PARTS LEFT!

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    • #3
      Agree, no problem. The issue with tightening in sequence is to ensure the head is evenly torqued form inside to outside edges. Kind of like putting a tint film on your window and squeezing the water out of it. You work from the center out to get all the air and water out. Basically the same with your head. In fact, for larger torque heads like on V8s, you torque them down in sequence, in steps. As in go through the sequence two or three stages up to max torque so the head surface stays flat and even as it gets pulled down.

      As your only loosening one spot, the others are still holding everything in place so should be no movement. I'd bet you could even run the engine with that nut off and no harm would occur, not recommending anyone do it, just saying there is enough torque from the other nuts to hold it in place.
      Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

      When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

      81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
      80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


      Previously owned
      93 GSX600F
      80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
      81 XS1100 Special
      81 CB750 C
      80 CB750 C
      78 XS750

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      • #4
        Thanks folks. I went ahead and changed the outer four head nuts and torqued them correctly. Since I had spare nuts, I changed all the others, one at a time, tightening fully to the correct torque each time.

        The inner four nuts were really badly corroded and I thought one of them wasn't going to move as the corners began crumbling off! Luckily, I managed to get it off along with all the others.

        Thanks for your input everyone...
        XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

        Comment


        • #5
          hi james,
          if u ended up replacing all the nuts on the head
          might not hurt to give the cam chain an adjustment.
          pete


          new owner of
          08 gen2 hayabusa


          former owner
          1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
          zrx carbs
          18mm float height
          145 main jets
          38 pilots
          slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
          fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

          [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by petejw View Post
            hi james,
            if u ended up replacing all the nuts on the head
            might not hurt to give the cam chain an adjustment.
            Yes, good idea. I wanted to make sure all the nuts had the same torque reading. I did the four outer ones to the correct torque and then it occurred to me that the inner ones might be a different torque, so I did the lot...... so yes,, I'd better do that camchain,,,,
            XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

            Comment


            • #7
              James,
              Might be a good idea to put the torque wrench on them again after a couple of hundred miles / heat cycles. Just to be sure.
              Phil
              1981 XS1100 H Venturer ( Addie)
              1983 XJ 650 Maxim
              2004 Kawasaki Concours. ( Black Bear)

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              • #8
                Just make sure the engine is COLD to be safe and if replacing all them, do so one at a time in the order that is described in the manual for head re & re.
                Rob
                KEEP THE RUBBER SIDE DOWN

                1978 XS1100E Modified
                1978 XS500E
                1979 XS1100F Restored
                1980 XS1100 SG
                1981 Suzuki GS1100
                1983 Suzuki GS750S Katana
                1983 Honda CB900 Custom

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