CDI Ignition-black box-compatibility

[jawnski]

I have an '80 xs11 and last year the two cylinders would not fire. Following the helpful advice I discovered on this web site, I discovered a broken solder connection on the CDI box. The problem is, I think I used plumbing solder. As a result, the problem returned-1 and 4 cylinders not firing. The weird thing is, there is continuity within the circuit and sometimes.

I figure I need another CDI box. I see them on Ebay all the time but with different numbers. My box says

TYPE TIDI14-01 with another number below it 2H7-10

QUESTION: Will a type TID14-04 4RO-10 work on my bike, or will it mess it up?

How about an xj11 cdi?

[Ken Talbot]

I'm not an electrical expert, but I can't see how using the wrong type of solder will let the connection "go bad" after such a short time.

Intermitent continuity sounds more like a broken wire somewhere else - I would check for a broken pick-up coil wire.

[jawnski]

Thanks Ken. Your opinion weighs heavily with me. Perhaps I'l try to track that down. I dd the pickup coil "wire fix" last year and maybe it came undone.

I've been told that if a guy uses plumbing solder on an electrical connection, it will corrode and micht cause intermittent continuity.

I don't know anything about electronics but I'm thinking there might be a certain degree of continuity that the CDI needs to function. If the continuity drops below a certain threshold, it won't work. What do you think?

The reason why I suspect the CDI box is becasuse, on many occasions, I "jump started" the circuit. That is, I put one test lead on the suspected solder joint and the other test lead on where that circuit was supposed to lead to. All cylinders would fire for a while. Weird. Almost like it needed to be charged or something.

[TheDjost]

Plumbing solder and electrical solder don't have the same acis flux inside. The type of flux in plumbing solder is highly corrosive and is amplified by exposure to salty and/or dirty water. Another problem is that it also uses a different SN/PB alloy, wich makes it a little harder, hence more brittle.

The problem is most likely an intermittent connexion due to a broken solder joint. All solder will work-harden when exposed to vibration. The electronic stuff just lasts longer. I can't count how many C.B.'s I repaired that just had a couple of bad/broken solder joints. Just redo the whole board, because the ones that are not broken yet, are just about to. They have been exposed to the same vibration.

What you have to do is just pull it apart again, and redo the solder joints with the right type of solder. Make sure it is "rosin core". That way you're sure it won't be plumbing stuff because that type of flux is very toxic.


-Justin

[jawnski]

Thanks Justin

I just fixed it. For now.

I suspect the plumbing solder oozed below the board. Not sure how to get the whole silicon board out to inspect it.


I removed the old solder with soldering braid and re-soldered it but it didn't work. There was continuity but it didn't spark #1 and 4 cylinders.

Finally, I rigged it by connecting a piece of solder to the joints
http://jawnski.redirectme.net/yamaha/solderjob.htm

Looks horrible and I don;t expect it to hold up. I'm watching some ignition units on ebay. I figure I'll need a new one after mutilating this one. I'm guessing the number on the unit is vitally important so I have to find a specific box; TID 14-01



Tomorrow I'll yank the unit off and let my electronics teacher take a look at it.

I'm still thinking that the degree of continuity is important.

[Redbaron]

CDI Box: Pay Attention

2H7-10 is the important number, went thru this a while back. Search the forum for CDI Box. This number must match for the box to function properly. TID14-01 is the main part number, 2H7-10 denotes the ignition system setup and must match exactly. Recommended the search because I posted where to get this before. Willies Cycle Salvage in Camp Hill, Al. has them, I paid $90.00 plus shipping for the part, exact match worked great. I'm sorry but at the moment I can't remember willies number. Others have bought from him as well. HTH
Side: Am currently in the process of trying to repair one, have not been able to disassemble faar enough to do any good, am concerned about breaking all internals loose as I am unable to get the male plugs on the box to loosen for removal. Anyone have any suggestions, even if it is only force it apart.

[jawnski]

I found Willies and submitted a request for the part.

http://www.williescycle.com/home.htm

Like I mentioned, I'm going to give the box to my teacher and see if he can figure out how to take it apart. Seems to be a problem for a lot of people.

Thanks for the tip. I wasn't sure if I could use a different # CDI but now I know and won't waste money (or my bike)

[scalded dog]

One of my 79xs elevens was cutting off completely, after much anguish, trial and error, when the bike does it now, I just pull the seat up tap on it and it is fixed temporarily again, also, I almost bought a box for around $300 off e-bay for the xs because the seller said it would do wonders for my bike, it was some kind of box built to increase performance, has any one heard of this.

[sksxs1100]

The plumbing solder is acid core, where as electrical solder is rosin core.
To remove the board from the plastic case.. you must unsolder all 14(i think) pins to get the board out and remove the 2 screws on the botom.
I have a spare one that i have to fix . The board was broken right at the pins, so i have to make wire leads from the board to the pins.plus it will make it easier fo flip over to make any repairs.

[sksxs1100]

ok I have the box open in front of me.. there are 12 pins. The original solder joints dont look too great.

[newmaac]

I tried to send an e-mail directly to you, but I don't think that my links are working.
I have 2 spare boxes, both are the 2H7-10.
If you are still in need, you can contact me.
newmaac2000@yahoo.com.
good luck.

[jawnski]

This problem seems to plauge our 20+ year old bikes. Whenever I read a #1 and 4 cylinder problem, I always suspect the black box FIRST, then the coil wires.

At any rate, I'm happy to report thay my electonics teacher zeroed right in on my problem is did a professional repair job.

Thanks for all the excellent information.