Hi my compadres. Can anyone recommend a good chrome plating company. I am in NJ but don't mind shipping my parts if quality and cost can justify it. Also, does anyone have an idea of what a box of parts that would fit into about a 2'x2' box would cost to do? I understand it could vary substantially based on a number of things, but are we talking about 200-300 dollars, or more like 800-900 dollars? Thank you
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Need a good chrome plating co. and an idea of price
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Well, as a general observation chrome plating is not at all inexpensive any more. There's a lot of factors that determine cost, but a quality plating job won't be cheap.
Are the parts already plated? This will probably increase the cost, as they need to be stripped before a re-plate.
What degree of 'finish' do you want? Just a straight plate job, or 'show chrome'?
Do you want 'triple-plate' (you should, as single or double plate is inferior in both longevity and appearance)?
Are you plating just steel parts, or do you want to do some aluminum? Aluminum can be considerably harder to plate (particularly cast), and the price can reflect that. Also be aware that if the aluminum part has any steel bits cast or pressed in, the aluminum plating solution can literally eat them away; I had a kick-starter bushing disappear out of a side cover that way, and had to have a new one machined from scratch.
For what it's worth, in the mid-70s I had a similar 'box full of parts' plated for about $200; today I would expect that same box would cost me about $1K if not more....Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...
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Cost
No.. It's much more that 1K.. Don't ask me how I know.. It's the reason I bought my own polishing equipment.78 XS1100E Standard
Coca Cola Red
Hooker Headers
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...m/DSC00580.jpg
1979 XS1100 Special
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...m/DSC00612.jpg
1980 XS Standard
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...m/DSC01137.jpg
2006 Roadstar Warrior
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...um/warrior.jpg
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Let me add to this...
Being also a HD Sportster owner, I've bought my fair share of chrome goodies. I've found that it's cheaper (usually much cheaper) to just buy a new, already chromed part rather than have the used non-plated part I already own plated. As just one example, I was quoted over $1200 to plate my various polished engine covers (sidecovers, rocker boxes, etc) but was able to buy a brand-new, already chromed 'engine kit' with all the same parts for under $900... go figure. In fact, the chrome part will usually cost less that a non-plated 'stock' replacement part. So some of it has to do with economies of scale and dealing with new, unblemished parts. Plus the fact that much of this stuff is plated off-shore (no EPA regs to deal with).
And like Dale, I also bought my own polishing equipment...Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...
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Originally posted by crazy steve View PostDo you want 'triple-plate' (you should, as single or double plate is inferior in both longevity and appearance)?Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt
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The fuel door for my 78 all by itself was $60.00 to have re-chromed'78 E "Stormbringer"
Purrs like a kitten, roars like a lion, runs like a gazelle (being chased by a cheetah).
pics http://s1209.photobucket.com/albums/...tormbringer45/
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Originally posted by natemoen View PostCorrect me if I am wrong but doesn't the term "triple plate" refer to the fact that the plating process is actually a copper plate, then a nickel plate, and then finally a chrome plate. It's not that the chrome is 3 layers (which guess you do not necessarily imply). Everyplace I have seen the triple plating is basically industry standard, not saying some guy somewhere isn't just slapping chrome on bare untreated metal. Also something else that really matters with chrome is thickness of the plating, don't know what is a good thickness though.
The copper base is used as a 'filler'; being easy to polish if need be (and for a 'show chrome' finish, it usually is), it's used to fill final imperfections before applying the 'finish' plating, as well as offering a last barrier to rust. Nickel is the rust preventer but tarnishes rather easily, which chrome does not. Chrome is also porous, which is why the nickel underbase is important. You want a minimum plate thickness of at least 2-3 mils with chrome, with 4-5 being better. The copper/nickel should be thicker IIRC.
With a practiced eye, you can tell where/how a plating job went bad. Blue-green spots on the surface? Too-thin nickel plate, allowing the copper to oxidize. Yellow or grey areas? Too little chrome, letting the nickel show. This can be hard to spot on new plating, and is a sure sign of a 'cheap' plating job. Poorly polished parts (buffing marks still visible; the bane of Japanese plating) will also have issues with the plating failing, as those imperfections will leave thin spots in the plating opening the door to rust. This can be offset by doing thicker plating, but generally if the polish job is poor they're cutting corners and won't apply more plating.
Chromed aluminum is the worst; no matter what you do, the plating will fail sooner or later. A first-class job is critical here, as the easily-corroded aluminum if not sealed properly by plating will quickly start blistering. If you ride in the rain, put the bike away wet (even after washing) or store your bike anyplace that isn't dry, you'll have issues and quickly. As one plater told me years ago...'kid, chromed aluminum is like a teenaged whore; look real purty the first time you see it, but just doesn't age well if you really use it...'Last edited by crazy steve; 01-03-2011, 10:24 PM.Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...
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If you're game enough, you can do it yourself. Many of the model engineering fraternity do it on a small scale. http://electroplating-process.blogsp...roplating.html1980 SG. (Sold - waiting on replacement)
2000 XJR1300. The Real modern XS11. Others are just pretenders.
Woman (well, my wife anyway) are always on Transmit and never Receive.
"A man should look for what is, and not for what he thinks should be" Albert Einstien.
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'81 1100 MNS - "Midnight XSpress"
Original except:
120 mains outer cylinders - 125 mains inner cylinders - Ceramic headers - Powder coated pipes, covers calipers, and MC's
4 pods - Air box gutted--E3 Plugs - High Back seat - Grooved out swing arm - SS brake lines
Fork brace - 160 speedo - Auto CCT
All gold paint and chrome replaced with GOLD plate
"STUPID is Forever" Ron White.
Contact me by PM -I don't deal with stupid anymore.
Big John
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Originally posted by jmnjrpa View Post
There was a guy here a number of years ago who had a claimed 'hobby' plating setup in his barn and started doing parts for other people; when they caught him, he lost his home and property to clean-up costs and went to jail before it was all done. Chrome plating is a nasty process and the enviromental agencies don't screw around; get caught and you'll get slapped hard.
The risk/reward ratio of DIY isn't worth it...Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...
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Originally posted by crazy steve View PostChromed aluminum is the worst; no matter what you do, the plating will fail sooner or later. A first-class job is critical here, as the easily-corroded aluminum if not sealed properly by plating will quickly start blistering. If you ride in the rain, put the bike away wet (even after washing) or store your bike anyplace that isn't dry, you'll have issues and quickly. As one plater told me years ago...'kid, chromed aluminum is like a teenaged whore; look real purty the first time you see it, but just doesn't age well if you really use it...'Skids (Sid Hansen)
Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.
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Originally posted by crazy steve View PostWhat's particularly interesting here is the notes on the EPA regs...
There was a guy here a number of years ago who had a claimed 'hobby' plating setup in his barn and started doing parts for other people; when they caught him, he lost his home and property to clean-up costs and went to jail before it was all done. Chrome plating is a nasty process and the enviromental agencies don't screw around; get caught and you'll get slapped hard.
The risk/reward ratio of DIY isn't worth it...
I realise this goes against the grain of all the perfect world advocates but over here "on my little island" as someone put it recently, we've learned to do many things for ourselves and proved to many that the seemingly impossible is not only possible, but often very easy as well.
Sometimes, to think outside the square, first you must smash the square.1980 SG. (Sold - waiting on replacement)
2000 XJR1300. The Real modern XS11. Others are just pretenders.
Woman (well, my wife anyway) are always on Transmit and never Receive.
"A man should look for what is, and not for what he thinks should be" Albert Einstien.
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I have no doubt that there's a bunch of 'hobby platers' here too (with many of them in blissful ignorance of the laws, and the rest probably fearfully ignoring it), but the risk exists. And at the cost of the DIY kits big enough to do larger bike parts, it's just not economically justifiable...Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...
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Yeah there are such large penalties for it here in the US, its just not really worth it.
I had thought about it and as I was researching it, it just became so clear that it was a REALLY bad idea to even bother trying I gave up.Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt
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