When I got my 78e basket case it had no battery, so I used an old 300 CCA lawn tractor battery to get it running. I had to remove the battery tray and tool box to fit it in, but it worked. I cut down an old truck mudflap for the batt to rest on, and forced the tool box back in. On the right side I made a bracket to attach the elec panel to since I had removed the batt box. So, now that everything is tight and works I must ask my more seasoned brethren, is there any particular problem with running my large battery? What will it hurt or hinder, will I gain anything? Thanks in advance. Clyde
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Gunnery Sergeant, USMC (Retired), (A gung ho, lifer, Devil Dog) Semper Fidelis
XS1100E, 11.5" XV1100 shocks, "no name" 4 into 2 headers and turn out mufflers, stock air box, 140 mains, spade type fuse block, volt meter, LED conversion on running/turn/brake/tail lights, aux front driving and running light bar, 850 FD swap, Chrysler electronic VR. Ugly as a monkey's butt - runs like a scalded ape (WHEN IT RUNS)Tags: None
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Naw, the tractor got a new battery 'cause it is my snow plow also. These batteries only cost $25 at WalMart, which is half of what the 20ah OE replacement battery costs. If it increases my power storage capacity, I just have to get the full voltage charge at LOW rpm thing figured out. Come spring I will need my driving lights working due to deer, elk, bear, turkeys, etc., not wanting to share the road. I don't think those "whistler" things work on bikes any better than they do on cars. Anyway, thanks for the comeback.Gunnery Sergeant, USMC (Retired), (A gung ho, lifer, Devil Dog) Semper Fidelis
XS1100E, 11.5" XV1100 shocks, "no name" 4 into 2 headers and turn out mufflers, stock air box, 140 mains, spade type fuse block, volt meter, LED conversion on running/turn/brake/tail lights, aux front driving and running light bar, 850 FD swap, Chrysler electronic VR. Ugly as a monkey's butt - runs like a scalded ape (WHEN IT RUNS)
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What you need is a replacement reg/rec from Oregon Motorcycle Parts. Geezer builds them himself, and he's a living encyclopedia on 11's and electrical systems. He's on this forum.1980 XS 11 Special: The King of Kong, 9th wonder of the world. Pacifico fairing, chopped shield, Yamaha hard bags, Diamond seat, T-Kat fork brace, XJ top end, YICS Eliminator, '80 carbs from Spyder Cycle Works, K&N Air filter, Fuse block, stainless steel valves & reg/rect from Oregon MC Parts. Raptor CCT, XJ air shocks, 850 FD, Sportster mufflers, Standard handle bar, Tusk Bar Risers, SS braided brake lines. Cat Eye speedometer. HID projector beam headlight, LED running lights.
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Originally posted by Clyde K. View Post- - - - is there any particular problem with running my large battery? What will it hurt or hinder, will I gain anything? Thanks in advance. Clyde
I have run a full size car battery in my sidecar rig ever since I built it. Half the cost and 20 x the CCA.
Shoehorning in the biggest battery that will fit in your solo bike has no downside.Fred Hill, S'toon
XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
"The Flying Pumpkin"
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Thanks for the input. I was hoping that was the case. I recently read about adapting certain VW Volt Regs to decrease the required minimum charging RPMs. Does anyone know of Pros/Cons on that subject?Gunnery Sergeant, USMC (Retired), (A gung ho, lifer, Devil Dog) Semper Fidelis
XS1100E, 11.5" XV1100 shocks, "no name" 4 into 2 headers and turn out mufflers, stock air box, 140 mains, spade type fuse block, volt meter, LED conversion on running/turn/brake/tail lights, aux front driving and running light bar, 850 FD swap, Chrysler electronic VR. Ugly as a monkey's butt - runs like a scalded ape (WHEN IT RUNS)
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If you know the threshold voltage rev range your looking for then pretty much any automotive votage regulator will work. The problem for us is that the rectumfrier and the regulator are in the same case, so if you want a seperate regulator your gonna have to seperate the circuit out of the rectifier or get another compatible three phase one from somewhere.
Best bet, as previously mentioned, get a Geezer made unit. Voltage/rev threshold is much lower than OEM and by all accounts they work much better.1980 SG. (Sold - waiting on replacement)
2000 XJR1300. The Real modern XS11. Others are just pretenders.
Woman (well, my wife anyway) are always on Transmit and never Receive.
"A man should look for what is, and not for what he thinks should be" Albert Einstien.
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I'll expand on Brian's post a bit to make it clearer....
Automotive alternators have the diodes/rectifier installed internally to the alternator itself. Main reason for this is to provide cooling of the diodes by the fan on the pulley. The alternator supplies already-rectified DC voltage to the regulator, which varies current to the rotor to control output.
The XS 'regulator' performs the same basic function as an automotive unit, but also contains the diodes/rectifier. So to swap to an automotive regulator, you would have to come up with an external rectifier to convert the AC to DC prior to feeding it to the regulator. The finned case on the stock unit is there to help cool the diodes.
Given that Geezer already offers a ready-made unit with all needed functions, it just isn't worth it...Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...
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Danke schön.
I knew what i was talking about, even if nobody else did1980 SG. (Sold - waiting on replacement)
2000 XJR1300. The Real modern XS11. Others are just pretenders.
Woman (well, my wife anyway) are always on Transmit and never Receive.
"A man should look for what is, and not for what he thinks should be" Albert Einstien.
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Originally posted by crazy steve View Post(snip)
So to swap to an automotive regulator, you would have to come up with an external rectifier to convert the AC to DC prior to feeding it to the regulator. The finned case on the stock unit is there to help cool the diodes.
Given that Geezer already offers a ready-made unit with all needed functions, it just isn't worth it...Skids (Sid Hansen)
Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.
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Originally posted by skids View PostNot true. You can use the OEM diode pack to turn the AC into DC and run an "excited field" type VR instead of the OEM part. I am doing it in three of my xs11's. Been doing it for years.
My Brain!
Could I get a schematic please?
And maybe one from a GM 10SI alternator too?
I think I might have a solution from work.
The SUM-1167 is a one wire conversion kit for a 10SI alternator
it has a volt regulator, a rectifier bridge, a diode trio. and brushes.
I know how to put one in an alternator but I don't know how it works.
The volt output is 14.2-14.7 volts all the time when you convert.
Also I read somewhere about WYE windings vs. DELTA windings producing more output at idle but I didn't understand it.
Could you guys help me ?
Thanx,TECHLINETOM
1982 XJ1100
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Star (WYE) will produce higher voltage at lower revs, but less amps.
Check here for a basic explanation. http://www.windstuffnow.com/main/3_phase_basics.htm There's much more to know but it's not a bad start.1980 SG. (Sold - waiting on replacement)
2000 XJR1300. The Real modern XS11. Others are just pretenders.
Woman (well, my wife anyway) are always on Transmit and never Receive.
"A man should look for what is, and not for what he thinks should be" Albert Einstien.
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Originally posted by TECHLINETOM View PostOWWW!
My Brain!
Could I get a schematic please?
Thanx,
sidhansen@msn.comSkids (Sid Hansen)
Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.
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