Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Carb Numbers

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Page of 1
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous template Next
  • #1

    Carb Numbers

    As there seems to be some question about carb numbers appearing on the carbs I will post a pic to show what it is about. The numbers are not stamped in but appear to be inked on the carb bodies. They appear on the left side of the #1 and 2 carbs and on the right side of the #3 and 4 carbs. The pic is not all I had hoped it would be, but I have cleaned the carbs a few times and they have faded somewhat. I did circle where they are to aid in identifying the numbers. MNS numbers are a little hard to see
    2-79 XS1100 SF
    2-78 XS1100 E Best bike Ever
    80 XS 1100 SG Big bore kit but not fully running yet.
    Couple of more parts bikes of which 2 more will live!
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Yeah my 78 carbs have those numbers on them as well! Dont remember what the numbers are off hand though.
    Nathan
    KD9ARL

    μολὼν λαβέ

    1978 XS1100E
    K&N Filter
    #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
    OEM Exhaust
    ATK Fork Brace
    LED Dash lights
    Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
    Green Monster Coils
    SS Brake Lines
    Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

    In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

    Theodore Roosevelt

    Comment

    • #3
      That is one NASTY choke lever!
      1980 XS850SG - Sold
      1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
      Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
      Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

      Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
      -H. Ford

      Comment

      • #4
        Originally posted by CatatonicBug View Post
        That is one NASTY choke lever!
        That is the result of sitting outside and uncovered for over 9 yrs that I am aware of, before I bought the bike. I am suprised the whole lever is still there even though it is bent. I am cleaning them up to try on a bike.
        2-79 XS1100 SF
        2-78 XS1100 E Best bike Ever
        80 XS 1100 SG Big bore kit but not fully running yet.
        Couple of more parts bikes of which 2 more will live!

        Comment

        • #5
          response to rusty items

          I have mentioned this a short while ago, based on my experience, I have found the "Safest Rust Remover" from the Ultra One Corp. to be really great stuff, very user friendly, environmentally safe. Another I have tried is "Rust Off" and that is a good product also. Try it for yourself and give us your feedback. I'll be curious as to how others like it or not. One note on the S.R.R., it seems to darker steel and tarnish brass. I'm not sure how to counteract that effect.

          Comment

          • #6
            size of "O" rings for carbs? metric?

            I read on this sight somewhere that some folks use the "O" rings from Harbor Frieght and Tool Supply stores. I acquired the 397 piece nitrile rubber metric collection and am trying to determine (for the outside of the valve needle seat) if the 10MM or the 9MM size is the one to replace 30 year old rings that are dimensionally challenged. It is hard to tell which would work best. The 10MM size look closest to being correct, but, when measured with a dial caliper, the 9MM seem to have the closest proper outside diameter, once installed, for the job. My limited experience is showing again, as usual! Heck, I'm a model builder, NOT a mechanic!
            Now when is my 1/6th scale Tamiya Midnight Special model going to arrive!

            Just a silly note; Isn't is funny how so much effort is spent trying to keep the effects of aging and oxidation (read RUST) at bay and yet, in the modeling world, some strive to attain a believable appearance by trying to simulate what is called weathering and rust (ever hear of "Rust All" from San Fransisco)?

            Comment

            • #7
              I use eastwood rust desolver. It does real well even the really rusty stuff comes off but it will leave the chrome and paint alone check it out.

              http://www.eastwood.com/

              Comment

              Previous template Next
              Working...
              X