Good day Gentlemen, Ladies. I have a '78 xs 1100 that has been sitting for YEARS. I have totally stripped, soaked, cleaned and blown the carbs out half a dozen times. I have synched with vacuum gauges each time as well, and it seems to run well in the garage (we have 2.5 ft of snow), starts well, idles acceptably and has good throttle response. During synchronizing it looks like #4 carb is a little sluggish doing throttle blips so I removed the air box and the slide seems like half a beat behind the others and doesn't raise nearly as much. I read someplace here where it was suggested polishing the slide bore. Could that be the cure for my problem, and if so, how does one go about doing so?
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Carb Slide Issue
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Carb Slide Issue
Gunnery Sergeant, USMC (Retired), (A gung ho, lifer, Devil Dog) Semper Fidelis
XS1100E, 11.5" XV1100 shocks, "no name" 4 into 2 headers and turn out mufflers, stock air box, 140 mains, spade type fuse block, volt meter, LED conversion on running/turn/brake/tail lights, aux front driving and running light bar, 850 FD swap, Chrysler electronic VR. Ugly as a monkey's butt - runs like a scalded ape (WHEN IT RUNS)Tags: None
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Since you will be pulling the carbs out anyway, not that you HAVE to do this, first lift the slide with your finger, then place a finger or something over the fish mouth/ frown shaped opening in the inlet bell of the carb. That is the vacuum port that pulls the slide up. Seal that opening well, and remove your finger that lifted the slide. See if the slide drops slowly or quickly. Repeat on the other carbs as well so you have a reference to use. If it drops quickly, you have a hole in your diaphram or the lip is not in the groove properly or something similar.
As to polishing the slide, you could use some very very fine emery cloth or some 1500-2000 grit sanding paper with some light oil on it. Then clean it well with some oily fluids, or gas, and lube it well with WD-40 or similar during reassembly.Life is what happens while your planning everything else!
When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.
81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection
Previously owned
93 GSX600F
80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
81 XS1100 Special
81 CB750 C
80 CB750 C
78 XS750
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Also, without a load on the engine with it just sitting in the garage the sides really won't move, just kinda looks like they twitch and jump a little.Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt
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Doubt it's related to your slide problem, but I did read some things in your post that set off bells and whistles. You said that you "stripped" and "soaked" the carbs. That sounds like you took all the removable parts out and soaked them in a carb cleaner like Chem-Dip. If you didn't disassemble, separate the carbs and remove the butterfly shafts and seals, you may have destroyed those seals in the dip. This can cause vacuum leaks around the seals and lean running conditions. If you end up with a bad slide diaphragm and need a replacement, let me know as I have several good ones stocked.'81 XS1100 SH
Melted to the ground during The Valley Fire
Sep. 12th 2015
RIP
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Something else to look at is whether the diaphragm for that slide might have a pin-hole that causes it to react more slowly to vacuum. Hold it up to a bright light and look for tiny lights shining through. There is a thread in the Repairs section about fixing these with rubber compounds."Time is the greatest teacher; unfortunately, it kills all of its students."
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I wouldn't use sand paper. Get some mother's milk polish and shine the bore. The slide cylinder may be coated with clearcoat or similar. Be gentle to that. Silicone might be a better lubricant than WD40.Skids (Sid Hansen)
Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.
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You guys are great. I have soaked only the jets and removable parts in carb cleaner. I used 2 cans of carb spray and shop air to blow the bodies out. I did the "hold the diaphragm up to the high intensity light" thing with negative results. All four slides return slowly, with a whoosh, when activated by hand. All that is left is polishing the slide. Maybe I am just over reacting to the no load situation natemoen mentioned. Thanks a bunch for doing all the brain work for this tired old mud Marine, guys. R/S, ClydeGunnery Sergeant, USMC (Retired), (A gung ho, lifer, Devil Dog) Semper Fidelis
XS1100E, 11.5" XV1100 shocks, "no name" 4 into 2 headers and turn out mufflers, stock air box, 140 mains, spade type fuse block, volt meter, LED conversion on running/turn/brake/tail lights, aux front driving and running light bar, 850 FD swap, Chrysler electronic VR. Ugly as a monkey's butt - runs like a scalded ape (WHEN IT RUNS)
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There is a video that was shot of the differences of the slides with load compared to without load. I will try and find it and post a link for you.Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt
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Originally posted by natemoen View PostAlso, without a load on the engine with it just sitting in the garage the sides really won't move, just kinda looks like they twitch and jump a little.
A little learning opportunity here!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tR63vrfhwr8
This is my little Youtube site, this video shows the slides under load, actual riding condition, but the other video shows them on the center stand, and they do move depending on how much you tweek the throttle open and how quickly you do it.
Don't mind the small fuel squirts, my #2 carb float was maladjusted, and slightly flooding at the time, but the videos show the slide action fairly well under the different conditions of load.
Then, if you want some laughs, you can look at my other vids, my pathetic attempts at the drag strip a few years ago.!
Yes, I second that either he's got a vacuum leak from soaking the carb bodies, or the vacuum slide diaphragm has pinholes in it.
T.C.T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
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Hey again Nate,
I took a while finding the link, and then posting it, didn't see your recent reply, so you apparently have seen the videos! My bad!
A few other places for vacuum leaks is the intake boot itself, the rubber cap that is over the synch port can harden, and allow a modest leak even though it seems to fit tightly over the brass nipple.
Also, see if the diaphragm will spin on the vacuum slide, if so, then it's gotten loose, and can also contribute to some vacuum leaking. Also, the intake boots where they are attached to the head, they can develop leaks there due to heat hardening the rubber contact surface of the boot against the head. Folks have found the bolts loose, rubber dried, cracking/peeling/flaking or crumbling off. They have removed the boot, cleaned up the surface, then either used a gasket or just fuel resistant gasket sealant material to seal the boot's connection to the head.
With it running before you take the carbs off, get a bic charcoal lighter, or some propane or butane, even starter fluid/spray that you can spritz UNLIT around the intake boot, synch port and listen for changes in idle revs, and if so, then you've found the vacuum leak.
T.C.T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
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Ahh I thought it was you that had the videos. was was not having any luck looking through your started threads list though. Glad you caught this had posted the link again!Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt
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TC--Those youtube episodes were terrific. Both of the ones you posted plus several others on there put my mind at ease. Thanks. Hey, could I get you to come and ride in my air box to get pics of my slides? What a trip. LOL Now I can go look for something else to panic about, needlessly.Gunnery Sergeant, USMC (Retired), (A gung ho, lifer, Devil Dog) Semper Fidelis
XS1100E, 11.5" XV1100 shocks, "no name" 4 into 2 headers and turn out mufflers, stock air box, 140 mains, spade type fuse block, volt meter, LED conversion on running/turn/brake/tail lights, aux front driving and running light bar, 850 FD swap, Chrysler electronic VR. Ugly as a monkey's butt - runs like a scalded ape (WHEN IT RUNS)
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