Carb Problem

[scalded dog]

Thanks for the reply Mitch, I have tried different settings on the idle screws, I havn't synched the carbs, mainly because I don't know how, I am off to try to find something in the forum to tell me how to bench synch the carbs. Thanks 'Dog

[mitch]

pre sync

Its under carbs in the maintenance section Works great i think thats your problem good luck ........MITCH

[scalded dog]

Thanks mitch I printed the pr-synch page, I will attempt to synch the carbs over the weekend, are you going to Suches next week, if so I'll probably see you there. Later 'Dog

[Pat Kelly]

When I 1st got my 1100E running (sat idle for 20 years) I had a 'pop' and slight stumble at low RPM. High RPM was fine. I too had a stuck pilot jet that I didn't remove when I cleaned my carbs. I borrowed a Colortune and discovered that the cylinder with the carb with the stuck jet had spark but no fuel until 4200RPM, when it transitions from pilot jets to main jets. I got the jet out with a tiny EZ out. I ran a sewing needle through all the openings in it. I moved it to a different carb before putting it back in. The problem moved with the jet. I bought a set of new pilot jets and problem was solved.
Yours may be a diferent problem but it sounds similar. I hope this helps

[markb80]

I have a question for Mitch. I have a dynojet kit and 4-1 pipes. The dynojet kit says 4 turns out on the air screw to start with. But of course this is too rich and plugs fouled. I wound up doing the following
1. Start at 3 turns
2. Synchronize with feeler gauge/bread tie.
3. Install on bike
4. Synchronize with vacuum gauges on bike
4. Adjust air screws repeatedly until spark plugs looked about right. 1,3,4 wound up about 2.5 to 3.5 turns, number 2 was at about 1.75 turns. Number 2 has 2 vacuum lines, 1 for fuel shut off, the other for vacuum advance. That's probably why it was different
5. Resynchronize with vacuum gauges (air screw adjustment made the synchronizaiton off). This was mild tweaking.
6. Check spark plugs again.

After the second synchronization with gauges, the plugs still looked about right, so the air/fuel was not affected greatly with the second mild tweaking of syncrhonization. Until I did all this the bike just didn't run right and I had occasional plug foul.

This worked well, but it seems I have to chase my tail as the air to fuel adjustment affects sync, and sync can affect air to fuel. Is there a way to adjust the air to fuel while synchronizing?
I think I know the answer, I would probably need an oxygen sensor to monitor individual mixture across cylinders.

[mitch]

Hmmmm

Not that i know of, dont forget your working on 20+yr old bikes and i really only learned what i know by trial and error , Could never afford a new bike so i always bought old one cheap that i could fix up. Been doing that for 36 years . Just trying to pass on some of the hints that i have found that work for me ..............MITCH

[markb80]

Thanks Mitch. I think an exhaust gas analyzer is too much of an expense to invest in for a 25 year old bike, but the vacuum gauges were worth their weight in gold. The bike accelerates much better and runs smoother than what I could do by setting with feeler gauges. My valves are all in spec too. I bought the gauges for $50 from JC Whitney. I also need 24 feet (4 - 6 foot sections) of auto fuel line and some vacuum connectors so that I could run the bike without the tank on. A home fan in front of engine for cooling is a good idea.

I found the gauge type was more than accurate enough. The mercury gauges sounded scary, with the possibility of sucking mercury into the engine and all. Plus you can't use those with a 2 stroke.