vacuum line

[sonicblue03]

I'd like to thank everyone for their help sorting out the extra wire issue. They seem to be an extra ground and hot wire. Now for the next problem on my 79 xs1100F
I am not a mechanic. I am great with tools and taking things apart and sometimes I can even get them back together right. I can follow manuals and can do tune ups and easy stuff. And I hope there is not an engine rebuild in the future.
The bike started easy and ran ok. smoked alot till it warmed up enough to burn the oil seeping into the cylinders. couldn't ride it cause the tires are weathered so badly the front tire split when I cinched down the tie-downs to get it home. I have to take the front end apart to mount a headlight. the brackets were missing and one of the fork dust covers is trashed. so while I'm having the tire mounted on the wheel I thought I could paint a few things and pretty her up.
So as I'm stripping her down I have to take the header off to mount the center stand. Need the center stand to take the front tire off. Question # 1 There seemed to be alot of carbon built up around the exaust ports. is this okay. do I need to clean up inside the cylinders. leave it alone cause it is alright, or do a rebuild I can't afford just yet but will be able to in ther spring. It does have a 4 into 1 pipe and it is not jetted right . I'm guessing this cause the pipes are really blue.
Next I pulled off what is probably the original air filter. It was falling apart. there are little pieces of rotten foam all on the inside of the upper half of the air cleaner. No problem I'll clean this all up. Question # 2 & 3 The bike hasn't been started for 2 days and there was a small amount of gas in the lower half of the airfilter, Is this okay? With the small air filter pieces all around do I deed to rebuild or just clean the carbs or since it ran are they okay.
question 4. there is a tube that looks like a vaccum line running down behind the the ignition cover. The top , near the carbs was split as if it had once been attache to something. it didnt come from the petcocks cause I unhooked a fuel and vacuum line from each petcock. Where does this go.
The longer I have till I can afford to mount the new tires the deeper I get into this thing. I want to start to ride before it gets cold but I don't want to do anything half baked. I'd rather do it right and have worry free fun later
ThanKs in advance for all your opinions and suggestions.
Jim

[Dragonrider]

The tube running into the ignition cover is vacuum advance. It hooks up to a port on the #2 carb (NOT on the carb boot, on the carb itself). The port is on the "front" side of the carb--again NOT the port on the rubber carb-to-engine boot.

The gas in the air shroud probably indicates you have a float valve in one or more of the carbs that is sticking....

I would not worry the carbon. Just get it tuned well and then ride it like you stole it!

[sonicblue03]

Thanks. I'l take a look for the vacuum port on the #2 carb when I get home from work

[Ken Talbot]

The fuel in the airbox means you have both a leaky float valve and a leaky petcock.

[sonicblue03]

Ouch. man carbs are not something I wanted to get into right now. The petcocks are no problem. Any places out there that will rebuild the carbs for me? Maybe I can find a set on e-bay and have them done up while I can still be riding.
jim

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there SonicBlue,

Well, with your model, the petcocks are the vacuum controlled type built into them, and are not supposed to flow unless the engine is running, so they are not working right and should be rebuilt. The carbs needle valve(s) are not shutting off the flow properly, probably worn and need to be replaced as well.

With gas in the filter box, you will need to worry about gas in your oil, cause it can drip from the carb into a cylinder that may have an intake valve open and then it leaks past your rings and into the case, can mess up an engine trying to lubricate it with gas instead of oil!!

You could get an inline shut off valve to put between your petcocks and carbs as a temporary fix so that the fuel can't get to the carbs when you shut it down. A guy in Ga. called Rob Reil does carb rebuilds(search for ReilCorp), about $125.00 a carb, so it ain't cheap, whereas you can get kits to replace the needle valves and gaskets and such for less than $20.00 each, and do it yourself, they really aren't hard to work on!!! HTH, good luck.
T.C.

[sonicblue03]

Iv'e been looking at some of the carb posts and it doesn't really seem to be the magic I thought it was. I want to get it running again and on the road for a month or so then get a crack at the carbs during the winter. Living in southern Ca I have a longer riding time than most.