Rapid engine tear down

[SFerinTEXAS]

Need to do a complete disassemble of a motor. Got with a parts bike and I know it had water in the oil and had been exposed to the elements for too long to feel good about using as is. Motor is on the ground and the head has been removed.

What is the fastest way to strip it down. Want to dremel the gears and polish the covers to use on my other bikes. No intention of ever putting this one back together.

My best guess is to remove the jugs and pistons and covers then split the case and let everything else fall out.

[fredintoon]

Need to do a complete disassemble of a motor. - - - What is the fastest way to strip it down. (?) - - -

Hi SFer,
use an air impact wrench and pick up the fasteners with a magnetic sweeper.

[DGXSER]

Just did this recently, Thunderstrucks engien was in very nice condition except the "engine guards" destroyed the engine covers and tore the bolts out of the holes killing the cases in the process.

I found a trick from members here VERY useful in pulling the cylinders. I used a carpenters pry bar on drove into the space where the jugs connect to the case then pry up. Look up my threads and you will see the location indicated. Very good "trick".

From there, just go piece by piece removing what you see next.then you will get down to the cases to split. The cases have bolts top and bottom you need to pull to split them.

[James England]

I just did what you've asked about. I was given an engine for free and it was more use as a spares donor than as a renovatable engine. It's dead easy to take apart, I thought. Watch for the 'hidden' crankcase bolt which is under the crankcase breather plate. Also crankcase bolts under the oil filter assembly (2 of them I think). You remove the filter housing, then the finned plate underneath and there's the two bolts.

I also used the engine as a practice for doing my own gearbox (and encountered several 'challenges'!) I removed the countershaft and put it back in 3 times but found it very tricky for some reason. I checked the operation of the gear selectors and got the gearbox working as it should, then took the countershaft out again etc etc. Very sore on fingers though and I found it incredibly frustrating to get the countershaft back in. In fact, I've just posted a request on the forum to ask if anyone knows why I found it so tricky. I'm keeping the countershaft cogs as they are in perfect condition and will use them on my own bike if it proves necessary.

Anyway, I found taking the entire engine apart easy really and very enlightening as to what's inside.

[SFerinTEXAS]

Thanks for the advice, Good idea on practicing on the gears as I may be doing my XJ soon. Just scored an ebc clutch pack and springs for the XJ so I think I'll pull the clutch first to have the extra plate if I decide to add one. After reading all the clutch tips I still haven't decided if that's really necessary.Study time again.

[James England]

Thanks for the advice, Good idea on practicing on the gears as I may be doing my XJ soon. Just scored an ebc clutch pack and springs for the XJ so I think I'll pull the clutch first to have the extra plate if I decide to add one. After reading all the clutch tips I still haven't decided if that's really necessary.Study time again.

I don;t think it's necessary actually. I had a slipping clutch on my present XS1100 and I replaced all the friction plates, lightly sanded the metal plates and used 10% stronger clutch springs. My clutch slip disappeared entirely after doing only that. I also replaced the spider bearing at the same time. The cost is about $4. I also filed off the indentations on the clutch basket etc as per many posts on this site....

Incidentally, my last XS1100 had a slipping clutch and I did exactly what I've outlined above. I then fitted a nitrous oxide system with jets which added 75bhp extra to the rear wheel. On a rolling road, the bike accelerated from 60mph to 120mph in approx 3 seconds (no wind resistance, of course....). Under any riding conditions whatsoever, it never ever had a slipping clutch. The first time I used it, I thought the clutch was slipping because the revs went up so quickly. Then I looked in my mirrors to see the car that I'd been overtaking when the nitrous kicked in was about half a mile behind me! The revs had gone up so quickly because my road speed had.....but no clutch slip.

IMO, if a renovated clutch doesn't slip with NO2 injection, it won't slip in normal use.

[natemoen]

I then fitted a nitrous oxide system with jets which added 75bhp extra to the rear wheel.

You are one crazy man!