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Hey fellas I have a question. If you bead blast a part and want it to stay unpainted, can you clear it or is there some special coating that must be applied???
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If it's a steel part, for sure you have to coat it with something. Aluminum, I'd highly recommend doing the same or it may prove impossible to keep it looking good.
For the most durable finish, powdercoat would be best. Clear paint will work, but the rattlecan stuff may not hold up too well. A good two-part paint would be a better choice.
Downsides? Most clear powdercoat tends to yellow over time depending on how much UV exposure it gets, as will paint. The paint will chip much easier, allowing corrosion to get under the finish (the main failing of the OEM coating on the polished bits) and quickly start looking nasty. If you live in a warm, dry climate and keep moisture off the bare aluminum, you may get away with no coating.
JMHO....Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone... -
Spray can clear coat
If you use spray can paint make sure you go with light coats and let dry between coats. Multiple coats are needed, at least three and it wouldn't hurt to let dry over night in between. I used it over unpainted aluminum on my dash and it held up very nicely, no yellowing just scraped off where my metal clip key fob was rubbing, I now use a leather key fob. But other than that it looks great. I used a semi-gloss acrylic.Just ME and my 82 XJ 1100. Mac 4>1-2 1/2" open baffle shotgun, no octy, K&N pod filters, LED tail/brake light & directionals, 750 FD mod, Ear Cannon air horn, modified bars and dash. "Motorcyclists are all bound together by a brotherhood tie through their love of the sport, and what difference does it make what machine he rides as long as he belongs to the clan." Walter Davidson, Dec. 1920 edition of Harley-Davidson Enthusiast Magazine http://s851.photobucket.com/albums/ab78/justme1100/Comment
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Duplicolor makes an aluminum color engine enamel that matches up pretty well with the color of bare aluminum, and IMO doesn't look as bad as a clear that starts to peel or yellow over time.Guy
'78E
Quidquid latine dictum sit, altum videtur
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If you're looking for aluminum colored paint, this is the stuff:
http://www.seymourpaint.com/alumi_blast.html
I've tried a lot of different products and these guys are by far the best. Takes heat better than any of the others I've tried, and doesn't 'mar' like most. They also make a 'stainless steel' paint that's great too. Hard to find, but worth it IMHO...Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...Comment
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I'll have to give that stuff a try next time.Guy
'78E
Quidquid latine dictum sit, altum videturComment
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Thanks for all the great input. I think I will try the Alluminum paint that crazy steve suggested. thanks again.Comment
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