Good head rebuilder.

[FanoftheXS]

I have an '84 XS11 that has been mothballed for 24 years in a dry, well-protected garage. The original head was ruined by a "machinist". Anyway, I tried to re-animate the bike a couple of years ago, bought a head off of e-bay and it had stuck (hard) valves, so the project lost momentum. I'd really like to get this bike up and running again, as it was a sweet ride. I've contacted a couple of head rebuilders who wouldn't touch it and didn't know anyone who would. I searched this forum for the name of a reliable shop that can rebuild a head off of one of these bikes, but came up empty. So that's what I'm looking for - someone who knows a shop that can (and will) do this kind of work. Please only recommend someone you know - not "you can try this guy" - because I ran into a couple of shops who would "give it a try" but after asking a few questions I learned that they didn't have any real experience with bike heads. Thanks in advance to anyone who can point me in the right direction.

[Rasputin]

As there is no 84 XS1100 I wonder what you have there. I would enourage you to do the vin finder post or post up your vin, at least the first few digits. The Xj's available in Canada did go a few yrs beyond but it certainly would help if we knew what exactly you were working on.

[DGXSER]

Hey Fan,

Welcome to XS11!!!

These heads are fairly simple. Once you pull the valves out which is not horrible difficult, a good lapping is about all these things tend to need. Then clean it all up good and replace the valve seals, which is pretty simple and straight forward.

IF your set on having it done for you, then it may help if you post your location so we know where your near to recommend someone.

Like Rasputin suggested, the XS11 was no longer produced after 1981. The XJ1100 was produced in 82 in the USA and up to 84 in Canada and perhaps overseas. If the VIN on your bike or engine begins with 10M or the alternator and timing cover say YICS you have an XJ1100. Only real difference is that YICS system as far as the heads go. At least compared to the 81 XS1100.

Hope that helps you some.

[petejw]

hey fan,
as dgxser stated, these heads are quite easy to service
yourself, firstly tip the head on its side and pour petrol
into the ports to see if theres any seepage/leakage past
the valves, do this for both the intake and exhaust valves,
this will give u a ruff idea of the condition of the valves and seats.
make urself up a valve compressor tool like this one i made
with a g clamp and an old lawn mower spark plug spanner



remove the valves and springs, put them in a container marking
which cylinder they came out of, clean up all the ports and
decarbon the valves and combustion chamber,
lap the valves, replace the valve guide stem seals,
put everything back together again and ur done.

[DGXSER]

Valve tool can be even simpler. I use a large C-Clamp and a pice of PVC pipe with a "window cut out of it.

[crazy steve]

...If the VIN on your bike or engine begins with 10M or the alternator and timing cover say YICS you have an XJ1100...

If the bike was built for Canada, the VIN should start with 11G....

A complete listing is here:http://www.xs11.com/faqs/153-serial-...ry-colors.html

Welcome!

[TopCatGr58]

Location, location, location.

Well, according to his IP address, he's in El Paso, Texas area!

Fan, you stated that the valves were HARD stuck, like in rusted, corroded together. SO...simply removing the valves is already slightly problematic. Sounds like you'll need to remove the guides as well. To do this, you'll need to put the head in the oven at about 400 degrees IIRC, this will allow the head to expand and release it's grip on the guides so that they can be pushed out thru the piston side WITH the valve attached. Then you can try soaking the valves/guides in some strong carb cleaner, ultrasound them, whatever it would take to get the valves separated from the guides without damaging the valves...they are steel, but not real tough steel, but still should be stronger than the brass guides. Then you'll need to get and replace the guides. I've read on putting them in the freezer, and again the head in the oven, allows them to be fitted together easier. I don't know if any kind of lubricant is recommended with this...they have a rubber O-ring seal.

Then, ANY machine shop can measure and ream the new guides to fit the OEM valves if they are still in good condition, as well as possibly/probably grind the valves and seats vs. you doing a lapping of both....you'll want to mark/lable the valves as to which cylinders they were in to keep them matched to the seats. The machine shop can also check the head surface for flatness/trueness, hopefully you have a manual so you can give them the specs/tolerances, and they can shave the head if it's slightly warped.

Then after that, you can reassemble it using the above mentioned home made type tools for the valve spring compression process to be able to get the keepers back on, don't forget the new valve seals as well.

HTH!? T.C.

[FanoftheXS]

Thank you!

Wow. I'm overwhelmed. I thought I'd be lucky to get one response. You guys are fantastic! Thanks so much. I honestly never even thought about doing this myself once I couldn't move a valve after soaking it in wd-40 for days and putting about as much force on it as I thought it could take. Didn't try the oven, though - that will probably do the trick.

The response to my question has really energised me to get this bike fixed. I commuted on it and took it cross country on a couple of trips, had girls on the back - it did everything well. I have a zx14, a vmax, a harley sportster and a gsxr1000, but for all-around versatility I can't say any of these bikes is as good as the XS11 was. Of course, I was younger then...

Sorry about the year - it's been a while. It is an XS11 because it has red side covers with gold lettering that says "XS11" and then "Special" in script underneath - and it looks really 80's cheezy! I'll look at the title for the year.

Thanks again for all the info.

[FanoftheXS]

Looks like 80

My bike looks exactly like the one on the brochure for the 1980 special on this site.

[slow mo]

hi and welcome

hi fan ,,i unlike my xs11 friends have little or no mechanical ability!what i will say is that you have found the right spot with some very decent people and i,m also proud of how well they step up!! ride safe ,,slow mo! xs11.calm

[natemoen]

Just look at the vin number on the steering neck. That will be the best amd most accurate way to fond out what year it really is.

[DGXSER]

Unless your the Original owner, with alot of these bikes, the engines have been swapped around. So check the number on the engine itself. Its just above the clutch cover on the upper engine case.

The 78-79 engines had a different head and valves than the 80-81, so it could make a difference as your doing the work if someone swapped your 80 engine for a 78-79 engine.

[crazy steve]

The 78-79 engines had a different head and valves than the 80-81, so it could make a difference as your doing the work if someone swapped your 80 engine for a 78-79 engine.

It should also be pointed out that you can't just swap heads between all engines; while they will fit on the motor, the differences in combustion chamber size and valves will cause problems if they don't 'match'. Check to see just what that 'EBay' head came off of, as you can't depend on most sellers understanding the differences....

[bikerphil]

IIRC, you can put the early head on the late motor with it's stock pistons for higher compression.

[ny.phill]

Higher compression you say?

That kinda sounds like you said "faster and better"! I'm not too crazy about the extra complexity of the YICS heads I have so this would seems like great idea. I've only read about the heads at this point though as everything ran fine.

Anyone have info on this head swap? I guess it would be an XS1100 head onto an XJ100.

fwiw, I did run a few searches but didn't find anything...