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front fork stiff after new seals

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  • front fork stiff after new seals

    I just replaced the fork seals on my '78 for the third time since new, now 102K miles. I used oem seals and the front fork action is very stiff. I don't remember it being this way in the past after replacing the seals. I'm sure the front wheel is positioned correctly as I have had the bike since new and had the front wheel off many times. Could this just be "stiction" because of the new seals? I am open for suggestions.
    1978 XS1100E
    1982 XJ650RJ Seca
    2001 Yamaha XT225
    2002 Suzuki DR650
    2008 Suzuki DL650 VStrom
    AMA charter life member

  • #2
    Yes, sometimes new seals will be stiff until they are broken in. Make sure your fork tubes are paralell in the trees. A piece of plate glass against the front of both tubes will tell you. Did you use 10W oil and how much? Recommended level is 212cc's IIRC.
    2H7 (79) owned since '89
    3H3 owned since '06

    "If it ain't broke, modify it"

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by bikerphil View Post
      Yes, sometimes new seals will be stiff until they are broken in. Make sure your fork tubes are paralell in the trees. A piece of plate glass against the front of both tubes will tell you. Did you use 10W oil and how much? Recommended level is 212cc's IIRC.
      bikerphil yes the tubes are straight, I used 10w BelRay fork oil, 212cc's. Thanks for the suggestions.

      Tom
      1978 XS1100E
      1982 XJ650RJ Seca
      2001 Yamaha XT225
      2002 Suzuki DR650
      2008 Suzuki DL650 VStrom
      AMA charter life member

      Comment


      • #4
        I know mine are a little bit stiff, but I expected it since I used 15w silkolene in them. I actually wanted to stiffen them up what with my weight and the fairing and all, so I'm not unhappy with the results, but I'm surprised that properly fitted and lubed seals would be stiff at all, that would make me worry that they were TOO tight on the inner tube.

        Did you bounce the forks before tightening the cap on the non-bolted side? I know you can get stiffness if you don't because the inner and outer tubes CAN be out of alignment.
        Cy

        1980 XS1100G (Brutus) w/81H Engine
        Duplicolor Mirage Paint Job (Purple/Green)
        Vetter Windjammer IV
        Vetter hard bags & Trunk
        OEM Luggage Rack
        Jardine Spaghetti 4-2 exhaust system
        Spade Fuse Box
        Turn Signal Auto Cancel Mod
        750 FD Mod
        TC Spin on Oil Filter Adapter (temp removed)
        XJ1100 Front Footpegs
        XJ1100 Shocks

        I was always taught to respect my elders, but it keeps getting harder to find one.

        Comment


        • #5
          If everthing else is all together correctly, spray a bit of silicone on the tubes and work forks up and down......may free movement up a bit.....
          81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

          Comment


          • #6
            cywelchjr yes I bounced the forks with the cap loose, first with the brakes applied, then after a test run I tried it without putting the brakes on, no change.

            motoman I will give the silicone a try.
            1978 XS1100E
            1982 XJ650RJ Seca
            2001 Yamaha XT225
            2002 Suzuki DR650
            2008 Suzuki DL650 VStrom
            AMA charter life member

            Comment


            • #7
              Silicone can cause rubber to swell, so there is a chance that it could make the seal tighter.
              Nathan
              KD9ARL

              μολὼν λαβέ

              1978 XS1100E
              K&N Filter
              #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
              OEM Exhaust
              ATK Fork Brace
              LED Dash lights
              Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

              Green Monster Coils
              SS Brake Lines
              Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

              In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

              Theodore Roosevelt

              Comment


              • #8
                Double check the size of the seals, make sure they are not 36MM, ours are 37MM. Only other thing I can think of is that they weren't driven in all the way squarely.
                2H7 (79) owned since '89
                3H3 owned since '06

                "If it ain't broke, modify it"

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks for the suggestions everybody, I'll see what I find.

                  Tom
                  1978 XS1100E
                  1982 XJ650RJ Seca
                  2001 Yamaha XT225
                  2002 Suzuki DR650
                  2008 Suzuki DL650 VStrom
                  AMA charter life member

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    hope you find the issue.........and no, silicone won't cause the rubber to swell....
                    81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by motoman View Post
                      hope you find the issue.........and no, silicone won't cause the rubber to swell....
                      I would agree, I have never seen silicon swell rubber parts. I have used it in several applications where you want to slip a rubber part over metal parts, just don't use it where something needs friction to work. I used to work as a piano technician and we thought the stuff was great at first, until it made parts that were held in place by nothing other than friction slip out of place. The stuff WILL migrate to anything else nearby, although I have found it often doesn't migrate upwards, so it works on tachs and speedos pretty well.
                      Cy

                      1980 XS1100G (Brutus) w/81H Engine
                      Duplicolor Mirage Paint Job (Purple/Green)
                      Vetter Windjammer IV
                      Vetter hard bags & Trunk
                      OEM Luggage Rack
                      Jardine Spaghetti 4-2 exhaust system
                      Spade Fuse Box
                      Turn Signal Auto Cancel Mod
                      750 FD Mod
                      TC Spin on Oil Filter Adapter (temp removed)
                      XJ1100 Front Footpegs
                      XJ1100 Shocks

                      I was always taught to respect my elders, but it keeps getting harder to find one.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I have had it happen, and I have heard others say that it can cause swelling. Who knows maybe it is the propelant used in some cans that really causes the swelling.
                        Nathan
                        KD9ARL

                        μολὼν λαβέ

                        1978 XS1100E
                        K&N Filter
                        #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
                        OEM Exhaust
                        ATK Fork Brace
                        LED Dash lights
                        Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

                        Green Monster Coils
                        SS Brake Lines
                        Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

                        In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

                        Theodore Roosevelt

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I have never heard of a new seal causing a moving part to be stiff. I would definitely recheck everything. The newer fork oil or some gunk still in the forks could cause it but no, I do not believe new seals would cause this. Even without silicone they should move properly.
                          2-79 XS1100 SF
                          2-78 XS1100 E Best bike Ever
                          80 XS 1100 SG Big bore kit but not fully running yet.
                          Couple of more parts bikes of which 2 more will live!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            JAT - Could it be that the teflon/plastic 'guides' that are in the lowers, just below the seals have been compromised?
                            1980G Standard, Restored
                            Kerker 4 - 1
                            850 Rear End Mod
                            2-21 Flashing LED Arrays on either side of license plate for Brake Light Assist, 1100 Lumen Cree Aux Lights,
                            Progressive springs, Showa rear shocks
                            Automatic CCT
                            1980GH Special, Restored
                            Stock Exhaust, New Handlebars, 1" Spacer in Fork Springs, Automatic CCT, Showa Rear Shocks
                            '82 XJ1100 (Sold)
                            Automatic CCT, RC Engineering 4 X 1 Exhaust, K&N Pods, #50 Pilot Jets, YICS Eliminator. Sorely missed.

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