Rear brake fluid change 78E

[buggrin]

Need to replace the fluid in the rear brake. Brakes are working fine, but it's been at least 3yrs. I'm hoping a change of fluid will head off any needed rebuilding/spooge cleaning, etc. My piss poor memory can't find the knowledge gained the last time I rebuilt the M/C and caliper so it's like doing this for the first time.......

No way does the cover come off the M/C unless it's removed from the frame. Am I missing something or is there a trick. I can't remember needing to add fluid, but it seems a PITA to have to remove the m/c just to add fluid.

After studying the manual I can't tell if the rod that goes up to the M/C is connected or just slides out when the M/c is pulled up.

If I keep the M/C above the caliper, then bleed thru the caliper with MityVac keeping the fluid level up in the M/C until the fluid coming out of the caliper bleed looks clean I'm hoping there are no bubbles introduced. If you take the m/c off, how to you pump the plunger?

Any words of guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[jeffro1954]

there are 3 screws with heads that come out, after which you can remove the cap and the diaphram to get to the fluid. Don't remember if its a 6mmor 8mm head. you do not have to remove the MC to get to the fluid. It is a real tight fit tho.

[natemoen]

Yes the cover should come off if you rear mc is stock. When you pull the mc off the rod stays with the pedal assembly and the plunger will stay in the mc.

[buggrin]

there are 3 screws with heads that come out, after which you can remove the cap and the diaphram to get to the fluid. Don't remember if its a 6mmor 8mm head. you do not have to remove the MC to get to the fluid. It is a real tight fit tho.

I'm blind apparently. Saw the phillips slot in the head, but did not notice the head was hex. Taking screws out with open end wrench will make job much easier.

Thanks

[fredintoon]

I'm blind apparently. Saw the phillips slot in the head, but did not notice the head was hex. Taking screws out with open end wrench will make job much easier. - - -

Hi Bob,
the rear m/c and the surrounding area is also a major dirt magnet. Be sure and do a serious cleaning job all around there before you remove the cover so you don't get old crud falling into the reservoir along with the new brake fluid.

[TADracer]

Do your fronts too.

DOT 3 fluid is the recommended one by the Mfr. and it is alcohol based which attracts moisture (moisture is the killer). If you want to head off brake repairs other than worn pads, change your fluid every year. Does not take long to do and goes a long way toward keeping moisture out of the system.

[ManagerMike]

I use a vacuum bleeder. If you do any appreciable amount of brake work, it could be a worthwhile investment, it makes bleeding (or flushing) any hydraulic system a one man job.
Just apply the vacuum at the bleeder screw and add fluid to the master until clean fresh fluid is coming from the bleeder, close the bleeder...done.
They are available in a compressed air and manual pump version, I have both. The compressed air version I use on cars/trucks, I prefer to use my hand pump version on bikes as it is less aggressive and less likely to empty the very small reservoir accidentally.
It is also invaluable when bleeding hydraulic clutches, which are notoriously difficult to bleed.

[buggrin]

Thanks for all the replies. Sounds like a piece of cake. Not such good news about hydraulic clutches tho. Just bought a FJR and have that to look forward to.

[CatatonicBug]

For draining/swapping fluids, this is my absolute FAVORITE tool. It is SUPER simple, and at only $6 or less, is well worth the investment. A full swap of fluid may fill the reservoir bottle 2-3 times, but it only takes a few minutes to flush the entire system. The magnet holds it to the headers or the frame, and you can just pump the handle/lever to push the fluid through the system.

[buggrin]

[QUOTE=CatatonicBug;304634]For draining/swapping fluids, this is my absolute FAVORITE tool. It is SUPER simple, and at only $6 or less, is well worth the investment. A full swap of fluid may fill the reservoir bottle 2-3 times, but it only takes a few minutes to flush the entire system. The magnet holds it to the headers or the frame, and you can just pump the handle/lever to push the fluid through the system.

[QUOTE]

Do you connect it to the bleed fitting on the caliper & push fluid into the reservoir?

[CatatonicBug]

Do you connect it to the bleed fitting on the caliper & push fluid into the reservoir?

Yep! You stick the pointy end into the bleed screw and open it up. The check valve in the bottle just allows the fluid to flow out and not suck back in.

[KA1J]

Catatonic, where do you find these? I have to do it all by myself and this little gem would save a lot of time...

[CatatonicBug]

Catatonic, where do you find these? I have to do it all by myself and this little gem would save a lot of time...

I linked to it in my first post. Harbor Freight has 'em.

[KA1J]

Ugh.. There's no Harbor freight near me... Was one in Schereville, Indiana near where I used to live but Groton, CT? Nope... not near by...

I'll keep on looking, this sounds really useful for a one armed paper hanger...


Thanks!

[CatatonicBug]

Ugh.. There's no Harbor freight near me... Was one in Schereville, Indiana near where I used to live but Groton, CT? Nope... not near by...

I'll keep on looking, this sounds really useful for a one armed paper hanger...


Thanks!

That's why they have a website. They will ship it right to your house! That's actually the mainstay of their business.