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  • ignition module

    I'm having trouble with my electrical system currently and i believe i have traced it back to my ignition module but I'm not 100% positive. the symptoms are the lights all power up and it looks ready to start but pressing the start button doesn't start the bike. nothing happens. I've ruled out the button as the problem because I've disassembled the throttle casing and jumped the button contacts with the no results. it is also not the kill switch because I've bypassed that temporarily to rule it out. i can use a screwdriver to jump the contacts on the starter relay and the starter fires right up and cranks the engine over a few times and sounds like it's about to start but dies as soon as the starter stops.

    Any ideas guys?

    I'm flabbergasted! I thought I'd switch over to the "build your own ignition module" and see if that helps but I'm having trouble with the instructions. after I've made all the connections i still end up with two loose wires the red/yellow and the white/red.

    i also checked the tip over shut off switch and it is functioning fine so that's not the problem.
    79 XS1100 Special
    Kerker 4-1, Pods, BS34 old style carbs, plastic floats, 147.5 mains, progressive rear suspension (restoring)

  • #2
    Have you dropped the bike lately?
    Check the tipover switch. You can just unplug it.
    Nathan
    KD9ARL

    μολὼν λαβέ

    1978 XS1100E
    K&N Filter
    #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
    OEM Exhaust
    ATK Fork Brace
    LED Dash lights
    Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

    Green Monster Coils
    SS Brake Lines
    Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

    In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

    Theodore Roosevelt

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    • #3
      If it's 'trying' to start while you have the starter button pressed, it may be either your ballast resistor (if so equipped, '78-79 models) or you may have bad coils. There's a comprehensive test procedure in the manual, just follow that...
      Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

      '78E original owner - resto project
      '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
      '82 XJ rebuild project
      '80SG restified, red SOLD
      '79F parts...
      '81H more parts...

      Other current bikes:
      '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
      '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
      '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
      Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
      Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

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      • #4
        no i haven't dropped the bike (yet) plus i took the tip over switch apart and looked at it (my curiosity makes a 10 second job into a 10 min one) rules out the tip over switch. i haven't checked the coils or ballast resistor. will do next. though the start button doesn't respond either for some reason. the only way i can get it to turn over now is with the kick starter or by jumping the terminals on the starter relay.
        79 XS1100 Special
        Kerker 4-1, Pods, BS34 old style carbs, plastic floats, 147.5 mains, progressive rear suspension (restoring)

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        • #5
          Originally posted by the108penguins View Post
          though the start button doesn't respond either for some reason. the only way i can get it to turn over now is with the kick starter or by jumping the terminals on the starter relay.
          I think this points to the starter solenoid or wiring to it from the starter button. I had a starter solenoid fail and I found that the coil inside it had stopped working. Disconnect the solenoid by undoing the thick wires and unplugging the 2-pin block connector, then connect a 12v battery to the pins in the block connector. You should hear it give a serious CLICK as the coil inside energises and pulls the heavy-duty contacts inside.

          If you find that the solenoid doesn't click when the wires are briefly connected to a battery, then that's the problem. If the solenoid does click and close the heavy contacts, then it's a wiring fault or the starter button switch........
          XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

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          • #6
            The starter circuit on the XS is pretty simple. The power starts at the battery and goes to the key switch. From there to the fuse panel and the ignition circuit. After that it goes to the e-stop on the right hand switch then back to the starter solenoid and then back up to the start button, then to ground. So the starter button is merely completing the ground side of the solenoid circuit.

            You can check for power along that path and see where it stops. That will tell you what is giving you problems.
            Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

            When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

            81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
            80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


            Previously owned
            93 GSX600F
            80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
            81 XS1100 Special
            81 CB750 C
            80 CB750 C
            78 XS750

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            • #7
              There's a nice shiny new one right now on ebay for a steal...
              " She'll make point five past lightspeed. She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts, kid. I've made a lot of special modifications myself. "

              79 xs11 standard
              xs pods, Kerker 4-1, zrx1200r carbs mikesxs coils 35k voltz of power!!!
              8mm msd wires
              tkat fork brace...
              Fox shocks...
              mikes650 front fender
              led's gallore...
              renthal bars
              gold valve emulators
              vmax tensioner
              Rifle fairing

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              • #8
                You sound like you are pretty savvy with electricity, but I'll mention it anyway - remember that the starter switch grounds to the switch housing, then to the handlebars. If the handlebars are painted, the starter button won't work unless an extra ground wire is added back to the frame.
                1980 XS850SG - Sold
                1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
                Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
                Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

                Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
                -H. Ford

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                • #9
                  i know how finicky things can get sometimes so it could be a problem that my handle bars are painted but i haven't repainted them or done anything to them at all and the starter button did work. but it's possible that it vibrated to a part of the bar that wont work from where it was. knowing where the circuit runs should help me trace it back to the problem thanks illuminating that for me.
                  79 XS1100 Special
                  Kerker 4-1, Pods, BS34 old style carbs, plastic floats, 147.5 mains, progressive rear suspension (restoring)

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    DGXSER has already said it for me "You can check for power along that path and see where it stops. That will tell you what is giving you problems."

                    This should help ...
                    Brian
                    XS1100 LG "Mr T", SG "ICBM" & FJ1200
                    Check out the XS Part Number Finder

                    Be not stingy in what costs nothing as courtesy, counsel and countenance.

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                    • #11
                      I occasionally have the same issue with mine, but in my case I know its the starter button itself. It's corroded and pitted to the point where it's becoming unreliable. Take your switch apart and check the contact point on the bottom.
                      1980 SG. (Sold - waiting on replacement)
                      2000 XJR1300. The Real modern XS11. Others are just pretenders.

                      Woman (well, my wife anyway) are always on Transmit and never Receive.

                      "A man should look for what is, and not for what he thinks should be" Albert Einstien.

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                      • #12
                        Hey 108,
                        I had very similar problem. In the end it turned out to be an accumulation of bad connections that were depriving the "black" box of voltage. If you can connect a volt meter across the battery and using the screwdriver activate the solinoid. watch the voltage drop.
                        Box requires 10.5 volts to fire the coils.
                        Charge the battery and clean up connections before ordering parts
                        An old battery will give you problems too.
                        Good luck. sometimes it is a bunch of little things othertimes one big one.
                        Phil
                        ps I am very observant Hamjam did the tests on mine
                        1981 XS1100 H Venturer ( Addie)
                        1983 XJ 650 Maxim
                        2004 Kawasaki Concours. ( Black Bear)

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Sounds like the solenoid is the primary suspect in this case, but I would suggest bringing in the ignition switch for questioning.
                          '78 E "Stormbringer"

                          Purrs like a kitten, roars like a lion, runs like a gazelle (being chased by a cheetah).

                          pics http://s1209.photobucket.com/albums/...tormbringer45/

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