Clutch not releasing

[old_chopper]

I'm getting the bugs worked out on my '79. The clutch has good pressure when I pull the lever but it is not releasing the discs. If the engine is running and I pull the clutch then put the bike in gear it kills the engine. It is adjusted to just a slight amount of slack in the lever before it starts pulling with pressure. The bike set for 15+ years and I'm wondering if the plates are stuck together. Has anybody seen that before? I tried putting it in gear with the clutch pulled and rocking it back and forth but no success. I also tried adjusting the cable so there was no slack and it still isn't releasing. Any ideas?
Fresh oil and filter is in the engine.

[Incubus]

I have seen stuck clutch disks, usually on bikes that sat for decades. You can free up the clutch and make it work by pulling it and working the disks apart. If your disks are stuck, though, I would caution against reusing them. I did that once on a Honda CB750 I own. It worked, and the clutch operated correctly when I was done and put it back together. Very rapidly, however, the disks began to disintegrate. I discovered the disintegration when I lost all oil pressure and found my oil pump screen jam-packed with clutch fibers.

So the easy answer to your question is "yes."

Patrick

[justme1100]

I would suggest you disassemble and replace. It would seem to be the safest way to go as the previous post states it could cause problems if the disks go.

[DGXSER]

Yes the disc can stick together.

Easy way to get at the clutch, is put the bike on the side stand. You won't have to drain the oil to remove the clutch cover. Then you can use the rear brake to hold the bike still while you remove and or install the clutch retaining nut.

I'd check the plates for warpage, check the disk and maybe surface sand them lightly. Put it all back together and see if it works. Parts-n-more sells the clutch disc for about $5-7 a piece if IIRC.

[CatatonicBug]

**Edit: I took too long to type...

If you put the bike on the sidestand, you can remove the clutch cover (and the clutch) without draining the oil. IIRC, the hardest part of the whole process is removing the old gasket material from the case/cover. Take the clutch basket out and manually separate all the pieces. Keep them soaked in oil if you are leaving them out of the engine for any period of time. Be sure to put them back in the same way they came out too.

[bikerphil]

Just to add: I've unstuck clutch plates before by just starting the bike in first gear (while sitting on it, off the center stand) and just taking off and rocking the throttle a few times. It will break loose every time. Get ready to kill the engine just in case. YMMV

[ManagerMike]

Yup, time for new frictions. Scuff the surfaces of the steels as you will likely find some surface corrosion and or glazing, I use a whetstone. Have the new frictions soaking in engine oil while you are tearing it down (this will reduce the chances of the "new" clutch from locking up right away).

[Ken Talbot]

I also tried adjusting the cable so there was no slack and it still isn't releasing.

How did you set the actual adjustment under the cover? Did you try tweaking it just a bit tighter than the 1/4 turn or so from contact that the adjustment procedure calls for?

[old_chopper]

How did you set the actual adjustment under the cover? Did you try tweaking it just a bit tighter than the 1/4 turn or so from contact that the adjustment procedure calls for?

I did not yet. Is the 1/4 turn tighter or backed off from contact?

[CatatonicBug]

I did not yet. Is the 1/4 turn tighter or backed off from contact?

Backed off.

[Ken Talbot]

The reason I asked is because somebody else posted a short while back with a very similar sounding problem, and I'm sure they said they found the magic spot to be more like an 1/8 of a turn or maybe even a bit less "backed off from contact". Wish I could remember who it was... The adjustment at the clutch lever is really only a cable slack adjustment.

[mxmikie]

i have some disc

[James England]

I think if a bike's been standing for 15+ years, then the best option is to spend some money and renovate the clutch properly. On mine, similarly unused, I replaced the friction plates with new ones and lightly sanded the glaze off the metal plates (having established that they were perfectly flat). I used a fine file to remove the wear grooves from the clutch basket and clutch centre. I also found that the three ball bearings in the clutch release mechanism were rusty and badly pitted, so I replaced them with 3 new ball bearings. I replaced the bearing in the middle of the clutch spider with a C3 type, good quality bearing (about $4). I also put in 10% stronger clutch springs. I also replaced the oil seal behind the small lever that the clutch cable pulls. Finally, I replaced the clutch cable itself. It appeared to be fine but, when I took it off the bike, I found it to be very stiff and corroded inside.

The result of the above was immediately noticeable and a huge improvement. The clutch disengages immediately and gear changes are much smoother. The spider centre bearing noise has disappeared and there's no clutch slip. It feels like a different engine.....