Need fork maintenance advice

[Smash]

Well, while tearing into my girlfriend Karla's XJ1100, I've determined I need some advice.

We were working on the front end, as the fork seals leak. Got the right side off and the fork apart. New seal in, everything back together, the bottom bolt on the fork leaks which means we tore up some of the threads inside the fork. Probably when trying to wrench that dang thing off. Yes, I did use locktight. What do you think is the best way to fix this? Tap and go with larger bolt?

Switch to the left side. Get the fork off the bike and no matter what we do we cant get the bottom bolt out. It's aaaalmost stripped now. We tried all sorts of methods, including heat. I stopped before we stripped it completely. So, suggestions on what to do with this one now?

Money is very very tight on this project, so going out and getting another set of forks is not an option. Want to just fix this set.

Any suggestions welcomed!


And yes, there were a lot of choice words throughout this process.......

[bikerphil]

It may be possible to change the seal with the upper tube still in. If you can dig the old seal out without scratching the upper tube, you should be able to drive the new one in with a piece of pipe. As for the one that leaks from the bottom bolt, did you forget the copper washer under the bolt? There might be debris under it if you have it in there correctly. Also, be careful not to snap off the small damper rod indexing screws when removing those bottom bolts.

[Smash]

We definitely tried to get to the seal without dealing with the stuck bolt, but couldn't do it without risking damage to the tube.

Definitely still have the copper washer on the one that is leaking. Everything was nice and clean when we re-installed. I have zero clue what those dampener rod screws are. I don't remember breaking anything though.

[bikerphil]

The screws allow the damping rod to be fit in it's correct position for proper alignment of the top rebound ajustment wheel. If the bottom bolt hex is a bit stripped, maybe a SAE size allen slightly larger will fit in there. If you have access to an impact gun, that might help. Last resort, take the fork to a machine shop and have them get the bolt out. Good luck!

[fredintoon]

Hi Smash,
no specifics because I never worked on XJ forks but here's some generics.
Always tear down all the way and clean everything, there's more than likely many years-worth of crud in there.
The screw at the bottom is most likely turning the fork innards along with it which can mimic a damaged thread.
That screw will most likely come out with an air impact wrench as the internal shaft's own inertia tends to stop it spinning with the fastener.
If not, there's usually some kind of long tool that will reach down and stop the internals from turning with the bolt.
If all else fails, pour a cupful of Cerrobend (an alloy that melts in hot water) into the fork to lock it up.

[crazy steve]

I always put a dab of sealer on/around that copper sealing washer when I reinstall it, so I've never had one leak. Putting the used one back dry can cause leaks. Some guys heat the used copper seal up to red-hot to 'de-anneal' it (make it soft again) and that can work too. I doubt that you've stripped the threads, as that isn't what seals.

As to the stripped head on the other fork, you'll probably have to drill the head off. Use a drill bit 2mm larger than the allen wrench size you're using and the head should pop right off once you've drilled deep enough; be careful not to go too deep and get into the slider. Disassemble the fork, then unscrew the bolt shank from the damper. You'll need a new bolt, but these can be gotten at any bolt supply that carries metric allens if the dealer doesn't have it.

The 'damper rod indexing screws' Phil's referring to appear to be your drain screws (or maybe not; I'm not that familar with XJ forks) and fit into a notch on the bottom end of your dampers. No notch, don't worry about it, but if there is a notch, then that needs to be lined up with the screw where it protrudes into the slider. A pic of this notch is shown below..

[IMG][/IMG]

You can plainly see the notch in the lower damper. These are modified FJ fork dampers, but your XJ dampers should look very similar.

[clcorbin]

Some guys heat the used copper seal up to red-hot to 'de-anneal' it (make it soft again) and that can work too.

Actually, that is annealing, not "de-annealing".

"de-annealing" would probably line up closer with "work hardening".

But what ever you call it, it does work wonders for softening up the copper.

[Smash]

Thanks everyone! Been out riding the ST a lot as our mountain season is coming to a close here. Will get back on the XJ project hopefully this weekend.

[BigDick]

Impact Driver man. Buy one now. Works magic on any stuck fastener.