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  • #1

    new pics of cafe

    Here's some new pics of my bike. I also had a question about the front suspension. How mushy is the frontend supposed to feel? I'm really only use to motorcross bikes and it's been so long since I've had a street bike I can't remember what it's supposed to feel like.

    1980 XS1100G
    Tulsa, OK
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Nice! I love the paint!

    Do you have a single air filter mounted to a common plenum?

    Where is the battery?
    Nathan
    KD9ARL

    μολὼν λαβέ

    1978 XS1100E
    K&N Filter
    #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
    OEM Exhaust
    ATK Fork Brace
    LED Dash lights
    Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
    Green Monster Coils
    SS Brake Lines
    Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

    In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

    Theodore Roosevelt

    Comment

    • #3
      Originally posted by MeatTooth View Post
      How mushy is the frontend supposed to feel? I'm really only use to motorcross bikes and it's been so long since I've had a street bike I can't remember what it's supposed to feel like.
      The stock tired springs will make the front feel mushy. Get some good springs and clean the internals of the forks and add fresh oil and you won't regret it. JMHO
      2H7 (79) owned since '89
      3H3 owned since '06

      "If it ain't broke, modify it"

      ☮

      Comment

      • #4
        The airbox is just a piece of pvc that I cut one side off and fiberglassed a flat piece on. I then fiberglassed ends on and hole sawed four holes the same as the original so I could use the stock velocity stacks. Then fiberglassed a tube on the backside and used a high flow cone from pep boys.

        The frontend is really really mushy I can bottom it out just by pushing on it at a dead stop! What fork springs does everybody like? Is there a certain brand or style that ppl have had luck with?


        The battery is under the rear cowl and all electronics are under the seat.
        Last edited by MeatTooth; 09-28-2010, 08:40 PM. Reason: added info
        1980 XS1100G
        Tulsa, OK

        Comment

        • #5
          Most people like the Progressive springs and have had good luck with them. You could buy some Race Tech springs for a little more money and they are a bit better. The cheap way ($0) is to strengthen your existing springs by cutting them down as explained in this thread....

          You might just need new/heavier fork oil to make your stock setup a little better, but IMHO, stiffer springs is the way to go.

          http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...ork+spring+mod
          Last edited by bikerphil; 09-28-2010, 08:49 PM.
          2H7 (79) owned since '89
          3H3 owned since '06

          "If it ain't broke, modify it"

          ☮

          Comment

          • #6
            I have stock springs with racetech emulators it handles superb...
            " She'll make point five past lightspeed. She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts, kid. I've made a lot of special modifications myself. "

            79 xs11 standard
            xs pods, Kerker 4-1, zrx1200r carbs mikesxs coils 35k voltz of power!!!
            8mm msd wires
            tkat fork brace...
            Fox shocks...
            mikes650 front fender
            led's gallore...
            renthal bars
            gold valve emulators
            vmax tensioner
            Rifle fairing

            Comment

            • #7
              Before you go crazy with all the things you could do to your springs, you should try adjusting the preload first. You should have some rubber caps or plugs on the very top of your fork tubes. Pop them off and you will see a slot for a regular screwdriver... Get one that fits good and push down on the screw and turn it. It has 3 settings and IIRC turning it clockwise will increase the preload and tighten them up. Give that a try and report back.
              Last edited by WMarshy; 09-29-2010, 06:38 AM.
              '79 XS11 F
              Stock except K&N

              '79 XS11 SF
              Stock, no title.

              '84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
              GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws

              "What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~

              Comment

              • #8
                will the emulators work with the air/oil forks???
                '81H (my first XS ) "Grey Ghost"
                Stock Pilots/ 110 mains (to change)
                4:1 Jardine w/ headerwrap
                Windjammer(wiring issues)
                SonyMarine unit for Ipod/Polk Speakers
                New paint/brakes to come!!
                ===============
                '80G FrankenBike (parts bike)
                ===============
                '80G to fix "BlackSunshine"
                Stock Pilots/125 mains
                Pod filters; 4:1 Kerker??
                SS Brake lines w/ new M/C's
                LED Brake Lite
                Needs paint....

                It is better to be thought a fool than to open ones mouth and remove all doubt....

                Comment

                • #9
                  Originally posted by TomRodgers View Post
                  will the emulators work with the air/oil forks???
                  Yes, but they recommend not using air for adjustment purposes... at least RaceTech does.
                  Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

                  '78E original owner - resto project
                  '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
                  '82 XJ rebuild project
                  '80SG restified, red SOLD
                  '79F parts...
                  '81H more parts...

                  Other current bikes:
                  '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
                  '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
                  '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
                  Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
                  Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    Originally posted by WMarshy View Post
                    Before you go crazy with all the things you could do to your springs, you should try adjusting the preload first. You should have some rubber caps or plugs on the very top of your fork tubes. Pop them off and you will see a slot for a regular screwdriver... Get one that fits good and push down on the screw and turn it. It has 3 settings and IIRC turning it clockwise will increase the preload and tighten them up.
                    He has an 80, which doesn't have this feature. He has the air forks if they are the original forks that came with the bike. He could make some preload spacers out of 3/4" PVC to cheat and stiffen the springs.
                    2H7 (79) owned since '89
                    3H3 owned since '06

                    "If it ain't broke, modify it"

                    ☮

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      If they are air forks, adding the proper air pressure should be plenty. 7lbs is what the manual states, but I run 12-15 with my fairing, due to the added weight. Either way, you should NOT be able to bottom out the forks by just pushing on them!
                      1980 XS850SG - Sold
                      1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
                      Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
                      Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

                      Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
                      -H. Ford

                      Comment

                      • #12
                        Either way, you should NOT be able to bottom out the forks by just pushing on them!
                        That's my thoughts too. How much oil do you put into each fork leg? what method do you use to measure it out?
                        1980 XS1100G
                        Tulsa, OK

                        Comment

                        • #13
                          Originally posted by MeatTooth View Post
                          That's my thoughts too. How much oil do you put into each fork leg? what method do you use to measure it out?
                          The measurements are in the manual. Not sure what it is for a G. I just use a measuring cup with ounces on it. I have a glass measuring cup that I use for oil/fuel mixtures for my lawn equipment, and it works for fork oil too. Some folks have used the large syringes from farm supply stores too.
                          1980 XS850SG - Sold
                          1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
                          Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
                          Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

                          Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
                          -H. Ford

                          Comment

                          • #14
                            Should be about 250 cc's of 10w fork oil. The 15w will make it a bit stiffer, so you may want to go that way. Make sure you pump all the old oil out first after opening the drain screws. Loosen your two top triple clamp bolts before trying to break loose the air caps.
                            2H7 (79) owned since '89
                            3H3 owned since '06

                            "If it ain't broke, modify it"

                            ☮

                            Comment

                            • #15
                              Clymer manual says 241 cc\'s of fork oil for the G.
                              Nathan
                              KD9ARL

                              μολὼν λαβέ

                              1978 XS1100E
                              K&N Filter
                              #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
                              OEM Exhaust
                              ATK Fork Brace
                              LED Dash lights
                              Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
                              Green Monster Coils
                              SS Brake Lines
                              Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

                              In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

                              Theodore Roosevelt

                              Comment

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