Bringing back an 80 Special

[cywelchjr]

Not unless you have the hog burner style torch that you hook up to a 20 pound or larger tank.

Where do you get ceramic spray paint. I have not ever been able to find it anywhere other than ordering online?

They sell it in the auto parts stores here. It's a high temp paint, and requires getting it up to temp at least once to cure.

[natemoen]

They sell it in the auto parts stores here. It's a high temp paint, and requires getting it up to temp at least once to cure.

Can it take a flame directly to cure it or does it have to be indirect heat.

[crazy steve]

Can it take a flame directly to cure it or does it have to be indirect heat.

Indirect heat only.... I tried some of this a few years ago, and it has to be cured, otherwise it says 'sticky' for a looong time. Trying to cure it with an open flame will blister it.... AMHIK

[Rickrod3]

Piston ????



I have some vertical lines on the backs of the pistons.
Is this normal?

[bikerphil]

It looks like piston slap, a little is normal. The cylinders get slightly out of round causing the pistons to tilt slightly during the power stroke, I think.

[maxrageous]

bringing back an 80 special.

Dear Rickrod,

I did the same thing, broke the spark plug off from cylinder #3! And up till now, felt rather bad. I also am dealing with a froze up engine from a seriously neglected (left outside for many years evidenced by small trees growing up through the exhaust system) bike. I have been spraying the PB Blaster in the cylinders and waiting for it to help loosen up things over time. I have been tempted to try an "easy out" to remove the last threaded portion of the offending spark plug, BUT, I have been warned that I could make the situation worse if I brake the "easy out" off during the procedure (it would be really difficult drilling out the hardened tool). It was also suggested that I put the bike in 3rd gear and gently nudge it back and forth to encourage the pistons to break free, all the while continuing to apply the Blaster solvent over time and to excersize patience. The application of heat has been recommended too.

I hate to sound like a broken record, but I wonder if putting some of that "Safest Rust Remover" would be a smart idea? This stuff attacks only the rust and not the metal or plastic or rubber components. Naturally, the whole engine would have to be flushed and relubricated afterward.

Any feedback on these situations would be very much appreciated.

Max

[Rickrod3]

Hey Max:

My experiance with stuck engines (2 so far) is that I was better off removing the head and pulling the jugs.
For the following reasons
1-It allowed me to hone the cylinders. The stuck piston can leave alot of rust.
2- I also found rings stuck in the piston grooves. So you can clean and free them up.
3-work on the heads without worring about the metal getting into the engine.
4- Check engine to see if rings cylinders etc. are in spec.
5- lap the valves.

On these bike the top end can be done without pulling the engine.
Granted I'm limited in the patience department and on experiance working on engines but; I do love working on them.
Hope this helps and good luck
Rick

[natemoen]

I totally agree with rick. Pull the head at least to start. Get the pistons moving again and then pull the jugs off and clean everything. Its really the only way to do the job right.

[Rickrod3]

Lubeing pick up pivots



I want to lube the pickup pivots but; I'm not sure how to get to them.
I think the allen screw labeled A is for adjusting timing.
Is that correct?
I think with those screws out the whole assembly comes off and I can get to the pivots.
Can someone set me straight?

Thanks
Rick

[Rasputin]

Here are a few pics and hopefully a vid of what it looks like and how it moves. Excuse the vid as I was moving the vacuum advance with my mouth while trying to get vid of it. Well that and a few beers. Hopefully these will help you decide what needs lube.

[Rasputin]

Dunno if the third pic shows a vid for you guys...it does not here...click on it and you will see the movement of the advance.

[Rickrod3]

Here are a few pics and hopefully a vid of what it looks like and how it moves. Excuse the vid as I was moving the vacuum advance with my mouth while trying to get vid of it. Well that and a few beers. Hopefully these will help you decide what needs lube.

I saw in the manual there are pivot points it is behind the assembly in the pictures BTW thanks

Is there a method for static timing I guess I could just mark the existing location and put it back in the same location.

[motoman]

Saw that no one ever really bothered to answer your paint question, being limited to spray can......seemed to turn into a self ego boosting thing. Anyways, if your gonna be limited to can spray your local auto-paint supplier can mix you up a can of single stage to re-paint the frame. Actually, the nozzles on these produce a nice consistant pattern and the cost is reasonable, $17-20. No catylist untill recently done this way which isn't mixed in paint but apparently something additional that attaches to nozzle assembly and product is drawn in through nozzle. Another good option if limited to spray can is Dupli-Color that can be had at your local NAPA, Tru-Valu, etc. Good quality paint for spray can and seemed to work well on my Venturer some five years ago. Still there......still looks good. Hope that of some help.

[bikerphil]

Is there a method for static timing I guess I could just mark the existing location and put it back in the same location.

Just mark the unit to the case before drilling out those lovely tamperproof screws, they shouldn't be Allen heads unless someone has already changed them. Easiest way before disassembling is to turn the crank CW and line up the reluctor pointer with the slot in the advance unit. There won't be any confusion reassembling it that way. Also note which way the TDC mark faces. HTH

[Rickrod3]

Stuck Piston rings

Most of the pistons have the rings stuck in the grooves and I ready broke 2 rings.
I've tried heating the piston soaking in penetrating oils wondering if there any good tips out there.

Does any one know what the ring dimensions are I mean the cross section which might give me indication of wear. I'll be measuring end gap later on.

Thanks
Rick