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  • Buterfly seals

    I have finally found seals for the butterfly shaft that I can use for these carbs. They're not the original, but close enough that small modifications to the OD allows a real good fit and seal. Now that I have these and the special tools I've developed for things like removing broken needle tips, and drills and pins for fixing broken posts, I feel I can rebuild carbs for others. Additionally I'm looking for non rebuildable carbs for parts to replace some of those missing on others. If you want/need any of these services, just PM me.
    You can't stay young forever, but you can be immature for the rest of your life...

    '78E "Pathfinder" Show bike...
    Lovingly restored by Dave Delzell
    Drilled airbox
    Tkat fork brace
    Hardly mufflers
    late model carbs
    Newer style fuses
    Oil pressure guage
    Custom security system
    Stainless braid brake lines

  • #2
    It doesn't sound like you will be sharing your new seals tip, eh?
    '81 XS1100 SH

    Melted to the ground during The Valley Fire

    Sep. 12th 2015

    RIP

    Comment


    • #3
      Sure

      The seals I found are the real type with the metal inside the rubber, but they are about 0.020" too big on the OD, so I use a special tool I developed to remove some material from the OD until they fit and press them in with yamabond on the outside. The old seals were just rubber and still fit the shaft OK, but they had shrunk and were loose on the OD so bad that there was a large gap. I also found that the butterfly screws will unscrew without cutting anything off the back and will go back in so I can upset the back again to keep them in.

      Harwal seals. Lip type: AO, Material: NBR, ID-08, OD-12, Width-03

      What you need is a special tool for turning the OD down to the right diameter. This is the part where I don't share.....
      You can't stay young forever, but you can be immature for the rest of your life...

      '78E "Pathfinder" Show bike...
      Lovingly restored by Dave Delzell
      Drilled airbox
      Tkat fork brace
      Hardly mufflers
      late model carbs
      Newer style fuses
      Oil pressure guage
      Custom security system
      Stainless braid brake lines

      Comment


      • #4
        So, the two options I see from their site are nitrile and viton. I am guessing nbr is nitrile. Why not Viton?
        '81 XS1100 SH

        Melted to the ground during The Valley Fire

        Sep. 12th 2015

        RIP

        Comment


        • #5
          Supplier

          I told them it was for gasoline and that is what I got.
          You can't stay young forever, but you can be immature for the rest of your life...

          '78E "Pathfinder" Show bike...
          Lovingly restored by Dave Delzell
          Drilled airbox
          Tkat fork brace
          Hardly mufflers
          late model carbs
          Newer style fuses
          Oil pressure guage
          Custom security system
          Stainless braid brake lines

          Comment


          • #6
            Nitrile degrades with carb cleaners (even the spray can kind). I would have went with Viton, more expensive but you would be pretty dumb to put something in your engine that would degrade viton.
            Nathan
            KD9ARL

            μολὼν λαβέ

            1978 XS1100E
            K&N Filter
            #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
            OEM Exhaust
            ATK Fork Brace
            LED Dash lights
            Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

            Green Monster Coils
            SS Brake Lines
            Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

            In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

            Theodore Roosevelt

            Comment


            • #7
              Darn

              Just when I thought I was ready to rebuild my carbs to like new I run into another problem. The "T's" for the fuel lines are way to small for the carb holes. I can't imagine fuel not leaking there. It weems like there was some kind of rubber material around them, but it came off when I took them apart. Any ideas?
              You can't stay young forever, but you can be immature for the rest of your life...

              '78E "Pathfinder" Show bike...
              Lovingly restored by Dave Delzell
              Drilled airbox
              Tkat fork brace
              Hardly mufflers
              late model carbs
              Newer style fuses
              Oil pressure guage
              Custom security system
              Stainless braid brake lines

              Comment


              • #8
                New brass ones, $19 ea, was posted by Marty (I think) in another thread....

                http://www.siriusconinc.com/search_r...earch&start=25
                2H7 (79) owned since '89
                3H3 owned since '06

                "If it ain't broke, modify it"

                Comment


                • #9
                  Found a way

                  To fix the "T's" so they don't leak. The original ones didn't leak when I took the carbs apart, but it appears that there was some kind of yamabond type stuff in there and they now don't fit anywheres near tight enough to stop the gas from just flowing out. I found that shrink tube cut just slightly shorter than the distance between the two raised portions of the "T's" and shrunk there is just the right size to fit tightly. It's tight enough even that grease is needed to get them into the carb body. Before I did this I took a peice of the shrink tube and suspended it in the gas tank under gas overnight and it didn't effect the tube at all so I decided gasoline won't hurt it.
                  You can't stay young forever, but you can be immature for the rest of your life...

                  '78E "Pathfinder" Show bike...
                  Lovingly restored by Dave Delzell
                  Drilled airbox
                  Tkat fork brace
                  Hardly mufflers
                  late model carbs
                  Newer style fuses
                  Oil pressure guage
                  Custom security system
                  Stainless braid brake lines

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    My opinion is that it's too much a PITA to go back and fix the leaky "T" later if the shortcut fix doesn't work. I went with the new ones and rest easy.

                    I admire the heat shrink fix in a pinch, but it wouldn't do for me.
                    Marty (in Mississippi)
                    XS1100SG
                    XS650SK
                    XS650SH
                    XS650G
                    XS6502F
                    XS650E

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I did mine by using fuel injection O rings. I took the T with me to the auto supply shop and got O rings that are thin and a tight fit over the Ts ends. I put one on each side and placed it between the factory ridges of that rubber coating. Worked great, no leaks, no problems.
                      Rob
                      KEEP THE RUBBER SIDE DOWN

                      1978 XS1100E Modified
                      1978 XS500E
                      1979 XS1100F Restored
                      1980 XS1100 SG
                      1981 Suzuki GS1100
                      1983 Suzuki GS750S Katana
                      1983 Honda CB900 Custom

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by jetmechmarty View Post
                        My opinion is that it's too much a PITA to go back and fix the leaky "T" later if the shortcut fix doesn't work.
                        I agree, 100%
                        2H7 (79) owned since '89
                        3H3 owned since '06

                        "If it ain't broke, modify it"

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by planedick View Post
                          To fix the "T's" so they don't leak. The original ones didn't leak when I took the carbs apart, but it appears that there was some kind of yamabond type stuff in there and they now don't fit anywheres near tight enough to stop the gas from just flowing out. I found that shrink tube cut just slightly shorter than the distance between the two raised portions of the "T's" and shrunk there is just the right size to fit tightly. It's tight enough even that grease is needed to get them into the carb body. Before I did this I took a peice of the shrink tube and suspended it in the gas tank under gas overnight and it didn't effect the tube at all so I decided gasoline won't hurt it.
                          IIRC, shrink tube is PVC and PVC is degraded by gasoline. Might want to research further before reinstalling.
                          '81 XS1100 SH

                          Melted to the ground during The Valley Fire

                          Sep. 12th 2015

                          RIP

                          Comment

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