how much spring do i cut to lower 2"

[paolo1]

hey guys i have a 78 xs1100 that i would like to lower the front end by 2" to go with the look i want to achieve.i understand that this mod has handling reprocutions but i am on a budget and would like to try and cut the stock springs and if not happy with the feel i will then invest in some progressives.i have read some of the posts but i'm still a little confused.

i remove the fork caps carefully as they are under load.at this point i believe i should be able to remove the spring and someone mentioned there being a spacer in there that can be cut or do i cut the spring itself?

do i cut the top or bottom of the spring and how much do i have to remove to lower the bike 1.5"-2" in the front. can someone chime in and give me some pointers or a clear explanation of the process please

[paolo1]

one other question i saw bikerphil mentioned taking the springs off a 78 standard and cutting the 6"progressive part off and using 3/4' preload what is this preload a spacer that is installed on top of the spring?

[crazy steve]

First, cutting the main spring is not the way you lower a bike. You may end up cutting the spring in the process of lowering it, but that's not how you do it.

To lower the front, first fully disassemble the forks, making a note of how much spring 'preload' you have. This measurement will be the distance from the end of the spring to the end of the fork tube (and it may be in or out of the tube). Record this amount. You must maintain approximately the same preload for proper handling.

After disassembly, you'll find a small spring installed under the damper; this is your 'rebound' spring. This controls height (fork length); make this spring shorter, and the fork will be longer; longer, and the fork will be shorter. So if you want to lower, you need a 'longer' spring. 'Commercial' lowering kits generally include 1 or 2 1" springs that you 'stack' on top of the existing rebound spring. So you need to come up with either a longer spring, or a shorter spring you can stack on the existing one to give you the desired lowering amount. Want to lower 2", use a 2" longer spring. You can use some sort of spacer, but it must be hardened metal; don't use common pipe, either plastic or metal. Unlike the main spring, this one isn't under a constant preload, so it does 'move' and a non-hardened piece here will wear rather quickly and send metal filings all through the forks, ruining them.

After installing the new rebound spring(s), reassemble the fork to the point you've installed the main spring. Now check your preload distance; the difference between this and your initial measurement is how much you need to shorten the spring. I personally would tend to cut the spring no more than the difference, preferably leaving it a bit long. This will increase preload and make the front a bit stiffer, but this will help prevent bottoming as you now have less fork travel. If you find 'progressively' wound springs, cut off the end with the closer coils. Don't use a torch to cut the spring; use a cut-off wheel or hacksaw, then grind or file a 'flat' on the new end.

Reassemble, make sure your new preload is good (the front shouldn't settle more than about 1" with you on the bike) and you're good to go...

[fredintoon]

Don't cut!

Hi Paolo,
If you want to lower the front end just for the look you want, I'd say don't play Mr Amateur with the forks innards, you might find out the hard way that you didn't do it right .
Try sliding the fork tubes up through the 'trees until the bike looks the way you want it to.
You will find the bars stop the tubes coming up more than about a 1/2" so move them back with setbacks to get them out of the way or replace them with clip-on bars fitted onto the ends of the fork tubes that are above the top 'tree.