Hot start very slow

[DGXSER]

Soo, when I start Banshee up she kicks right over and runs great. But, if she dies and you try to restart it, you can not start it. It cranks over VERY slowly, and if your lucky eventually turns fast enough to kick over and run.

Let it sit for 30-40 minutes and your back to normal, cranks right over.

Checked the alternator, not running battery, before running battery is 12.4 V While running at idle about 13V at 3-4k rpm about 14V. So the alternator is running and doing its job.

I'm thinking the starter motor is going bad.

[jetmechmarty]

I like your starter hypothesis. Are your coils original? Have you checked all the wiring to the starter and the ground for corrosion?

[DGXSER]

Hi Marty,

I just transplanted the coils from Thunderstruck into it. They were running great on that one.

I went through and cleaned all the grounds well during the rebuild. But I did not ever pull the starter cover, so that is a possibility. Although, I am not sure I would suspect that to change with engine heat.

Thanks,
Don

[crazy steve]

I'll second the bad starter. If you have one that's starting to go bad, it'll be fine until it heats up (whether from using it or just riding) at which point it's internal resistance goes and it will draw more power trying to work.

It could be bad connections, but I suspect you'll find worn brushes and maybe a burned commutator. If it gets bad enough, it will take out the armature and/or the field windings...

[ManagerMike]

Starter relay? If yours is OE it has just as bad of contact issues as the headlamp relay, ign switch and all the rest of the elecrtrical demons we are all familiar with. Next it acts up, jumper the relay studs with a (junk) screwdriver, if it still cranks like molasses, the starter is due for recondition, if it cranks well, well a number of starter relays fit and work just great in place of that yamarobberbaron dealer part. Mine is actually a glow plug relay for a Ford diesel truck. good luck!

[DGXSER]

Thanks Guys!!

I had already replaced the starter relay with the one form the parts bike. Yes, I know it is used also and could be the issue, but still, it is so consistant with being hot, it seems less likely.

So, since I had the starter as well, I just switched it out. I'll take it out for a spin tomorrow perhaps and test the theory.

Thanks for the suggestions!!
Don

[bikerphil]

When it's hot and cranks slow, try cracking the throttle some and see if it speeds up. Maybe too much advance in the timing or a vapor lock.

[mro]

It's normal for a starter to draw more amps cranking a hot engine than a cold one.
Generally when they crank to slow to start it's either a worn starter or a week battery. Amp probe will check the starter and a battery load tester for the battery.

mro

[1st bike]

far from an expert, but one of the first things that came to mind after battery (and before i read bikerphil's post) was vapor lock.

[XS1100 Newbie]

I would check the starter as well. I t may well be grounding out when hot. The brushes my be curling back and grounding, and it my need undercutting. What you are describing sounds pretty common for a bad starter. I don't know if we can get brushes anywhere. As said in a lot of other posts, start with the simple things first. A bad connection could also cause it, but i believe you have allready went through your connections.

[ManagerMike]

one of the first things that came to mind was vapor lock.

Vapor lock= the condition peculiar to men caused by sleeping on the back; scrotum falls over the @sshole resulting in snoring, a.k.a. vapor lock

[DGXSER]

Thanks for all the input!! As to vapor lock, I have seen it in cars, but that tends to cause a lack of fuel flow. Not seen it cause the starter to turn slower.

The test results are in and the Starter is the winner!! Last night I replaced with the spare out of Thunderstruck. Went for a shorter ride, but engine was good and hot. Turned over no problem after the ride!

Now to solve the headlight issue. Going ot look it up on the search, but the low beam on the headlight is all but none!! I think the turn signals put out more light. But the hi beam is light like turning on a cruisers spot light. First time I've had this one out in the dark, so it was an eye opener!!! Also need to re aim it. Going over any kind og a hill is like dropping into the abyss!! Scary chit to be on windy hilly back roads with no warning of what is coming up!!!

[bikerphil]

First time I've had this one out in the dark, Scary chit to be on windy hilly back roads with no warning of what is coming up!!!

Don, glad you're up and riding again, but go easy over there, lol.

[3Phase]

Don, for the really dim low beam on the headlight, check the two left-hand handlebar switch connectors under the left side of the gas tank to see if they're corroded or burned, especially the Blue/Green, Blue/Yellow, Yellow and Green wires.


Inside the switch:

High beam = Yellow --> Blue/Yellow, Green --> Blue/Green
Low beam = Yellow --> Blue/Green, Green --> Blue/Yellow

The Yellow and Green wires go to the headlight from the handlebar switch.
The Blue/Yellow and Blue/Green wires go to the handlebar switch from the RLU.

[DGXSER]

Technically, I am only riding to trouble shoot and get it sold. At least that is what SWMBO is giving in to so far Amazing how many things are coming up to be fixed.

Yeah Phil, that was why it was a short trip, and mostly at about 30 mph. I started out and had the no headlight, very very dim low beam issue. So switched to high beam and it was like the sun came out. So went on one of my fav routes and could not see the road close to the bike or over the hill till I was way to far into it. So, turned around and went back home....slooowly!

Scott, I will pull the tank and look at those wires, and connectors. My first thought was the RLU. But that seems like an on or off thing not really really dim.