Replacement Coil Question

[MrOzz]

I have a chance to pick up some used working dyna coils. I am a little confused on what ones would be best, nothing new for me lol

If I am correct, we can use the 5ohm coils but keep the ballast resistor, or use 3ohm coils and remove the ballast resistor.

Thanks guys, I am sure this has been covered but after reading a few posts I have seem to lost my thought.

[lakecountrydave]

I am hardly an expert on this, so you probably should wait until someone with actual understanding of these things chimes in, but... As I understand it the older models used 1.5 ohm coils with a 1.5 ohm ballast resistor to get to 3.0 ohms. The newer models used 3.0 ohm coils and no resistor. From Pat Kelly post I can see that he used Dyna coil model number DC2-1. Here is the link:

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4868

Another link that touches on this subject:

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...ght=accel+coil

I just installed Accel coils (140403 & removed the ballast resistor) on mine and the mounting was a PITA. I ended up using L brackets like in Pat Kelly's post, but I needed to drill the extra hole in them and have it on the horizontal portion. I attached the L bracket through the bike's mounting points, and then attached the coils to the new hole on the L brackets. This left just enough room to slide a piece on paper between the coils and the frame. I then had to relocate my horn, and buy a 90 degree boot and terminal kit.

p.s. I purchased the L brackets at Ace Hardware. They were the smallest ones they had. If I remember correctly they were 3/4" X 3/4".

[Rasputin]

I am hardly an expert on this, so you probably should wait until someone with actual understanding of these things chimes in, but... As I understand it the older models used 1.5 ohm coils with a 1.5 ohm ballast resistor to get to 3.0 ohms. The newer models used 3.0 ohm coils and no resistor. From Pat Kelly post I can see that he used Dyna coil model number DC2-1. Here is the link:

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4868

Another link that touches on this subject:

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...ght=accel+coil

I just installed Accel coils (140403 & removed the ballast resistor) on mine and the mounting was a PITA. I ended up using L brackets like in Pat Kelly's post, but I needed to drill the extra hole in them and have it on the horizontal portion. I attached the L bracket through the bike's mounting points, and then attached the coils to the new hole on the L brackets. This left just enough room to slide a piece on paper between the coils and the frame. I then had to relocate my horn, and buy a 90 degree boot and terminal kit.

p.s. I purchased the L brackets at Ace Hardware. They were the smallest ones they had. If I remember correctly they were 3/4" X 3/4".

Yup You have it right

[MrOzz]

aa ok 3ohm remove ballast resistor. 1.5 ohm keep the resistor.


So a no go on 5 ohm coils.

Thanks Guys

[bikerphil]

Not 100% sure, but I think it might be OK to use higher than 3 ohm coils, just not lower.

[clcorbin]

I just installed Accel coils (140403 & removed the ballast resistor) on mine and the mounting was a PITA. I ended up using L brackets like in Pat Kelly's post, but I needed to drill the extra hole in them and have it on the horizontal portion. I attached the L bracket through the bike's mounting points, and then attached the coils to the new hole on the L brackets. This left just enough room to slide a piece on paper between the coils and the frame. I then had to relocate my horn, and buy a 90 degree boot and terminal kit.

Last weekend, I FINALLY (After about 16 years...) properly mounted my Accel coils. I was expecting a big pain, but it turned out to be pretty simple. I did have to redrill the front mounting hole (stock hole in Accel coils is 90 degrees out), but that was trivial. After that, the front of the coils bolted up right to the stock mounting point using a long screw and nut.

The rear was also pretty straight forward. Due to the size of the Accel coils and the location of the power/ground terminals, they will not bolt up to the stock rear coil mounts. To make them fit, the rear of the coil needs to be about 1/2" higher than the stock coils. I used a piece of aluminum 1/2 x 3/4 angle that I cut to about 1/2" wide. I used the bolt hole on the Accel coil to mount the tab so the 3/4" long side of the tab was pointing down. A 1/4" hole was drilled in the right location of the long tab and again, a long bolt was used to mount both coils to the stock rear coil mount.

It actually turned out pretty neat. The coils are tucked way up out of the way and it appears I should be able to pull the valve cover without removing the coils (VERY nice change!). The horn is back in it's stock location with plenty of clearance to the output terminals. I did have to but a slight "dog leg" bend in the mounting tab for the head light relay to raise it up about 3/16". I put a piece of foam rubber tape on the bottom of the relay to keep it from vibrating against the coils as it is against them now.

All in all, a pretty fast "upgrade" that I should have done a LONG time ago.

[MrOzz]

So if I am on the right thinking process any dual output 3 ohm coil would work?

I would like to find a different option than the mikesxs green coils. I know so far members have had good luck with them, but I would like to find something else since the problems with the back ones.

what do you all think?

[bikerphil]

Other good options include Accel's (I have those and they're hot) and Dyna's. They're a little bit more expensive, but you should never have to worry about them again. Make sure they're 3 ohm. If you look on the UK site, there are some mods using coils from other bikes.

[clcorbin]

So if I am on the right thinking process any dual output 3 ohm coil would work?

Pretty much. You might even be able to mount one of the automotive 4 output/dual coil packs IF you can find one with the correct primary resistance and size.