Anyone running 1" bars?

[11Rider]

I like the look of the heftier bars (not sure of the exact diameter) but I'm wondering if it would be worth the hassle. Besides mounting adapters I'd need all new controls to fit the wider bars. I wonder if they make anything like the Fatbars for dirtbikes in chrome. I have them on my XR650 and I like them because they are 1 1/8" and taper down to 7/8" on the ends.

[rgoot01]

I myself have had that very thought from time to time. The only thing I could honestly ever think of doing out side making adapters which aesthetically wouldn't work for me on my bike, would be to see if a machine shop could line bore your triple clamp for 1" bars. The only thing is I never inquired with a machine shop I just got the idea from having CAT line bore buckets amd hoist arms for 6" pins. I would think that they make smaller line bores. Anyway just a thought.

[11Rider]

I had the same idea but was afraid there wouldn't be enough "meat" left in the clamp to be strong enough. The 11 is a rugged looking bike - I mean there's nothing that looks spindly on it except the forks and bars. I'm getting fork boots so that's one problem solved. But now for the bars....

[crazy steve]

I'll throw a different idea out there.... how about modding 1" bars to fit your 7/8" stuff? The ID on most 1" bars is 7/8, so cutting the middle/ends off a set you like and welding in 'adaptor' tubes might work. This will damage any chrome, but the OEM Harley bars are stainless steel; you can get SS stick (arc) rod, then just repolish...

[fredintoon]

I like the look of the heftier bars (not sure of the exact diameter) but I'm wondering if it would be worth the hassle. Besides mounting adapters I'd need all new controls to fit the wider bars. I wonder if they make anything like the Fatbars for dirtbikes in chrome. I have them on my XR650 and I like them because they are 1 1/8" and taper down to 7/8" on the ends.

Hi 'Rider,
the top 'tree will line bore out to fit a 1" bar and still just clear the clamping bolts.
Not a 1-1/8" bar though, the clamping bolts are too close together for that.
You could get a pair of these things:-
http://www.adventurersworkshop.com/m...RS/3R-P2SP.htm
And install those Fatbars (if they ain't chromed, what are they?)
to save you going broke on Harley controls or doing a cut'n'weld to put 7/8" ends on the 1" bars

[crazy steve]

[QUOTE=fredintoon;296655]...to save you going broke on Harley controls....[QUOTE]

Fred, Harley controls aren't all that expensive if you look; I've bought all-chrome aftermarket HD control kits (both sides switches/housings, clutch perch, master cylinder, levers) off EBay for less than what MikesXS wants for the same parts, and not all of his are chrome. If you'll settle for black OEM bits, good take-offs (somebody replacing with chrome) can be had for even less.

Of course, doing all the 'adapting' needed to make 'em work on a Yammy would be a bit involved... but not impossible.

[fredintoon]

Fred, Harley controls aren't all that expensive if you look; - - - Of course, doing all the 'adapting' needed to make 'em work on a Yammy would be a bit involved... but not impossible.

Hi Steve,
My thought was that a used anything with an H-D logo on it would be marked up at least 50% from it's reasonable cost.
Perhaps I should have said, "less hassle"?
My guesstimate on costs would be that getting a 'tree line-bored plus buying 1" bars and Harley controls would be about equal in price to buying the Fatbars & transition setbacks and refitting the existing controls.
The latter modification would certainly be easier to do.

[WMarshy]

Hi 'Rider,
the top 'tree will line bore out to fit a 1" bar and still just clear the clamping bolts.
Not a 1-1/8" bar though, the clamping bolts are too close together for that.
You could get a pair of these things:-
http://www.adventurersworkshop.com/m...RS/3R-P2SP.htm
And install those Fatbars (if they ain't chromed, what are they?)
to save you going broke on Harley controls or doing a cut'n'weld to put 7/8" ends on the 1" bars

Now that's slick, probably the easiest way to get one inch bars on your XS.

[crazy steve]

Hi Steve,
My thought was that a used anything with an H-D logo on it would be marked up at least 50% from it's reasonable cost...

Fred, it really pays to shop for HD parts. If you get your pricing from a dealer or most shops, yeah, you'll gag at the prices. But there's so many aftermarket suppliers out there that there's a lot of price competition and you can find deals.

That's one thing I find frustrating about the XS; it really is a great bike in many ways, but the parts situation just sucks. It's laughable that some parts sold for these are such crummy quality for the money; the MAC exhausts (for one example) if sold for a HD at their current quality level would be lucky to fetch $150 if you could find any buyers. Most HD owners would just sneer at these. At what current prices are for a good used XS OEM exhaust, I have several dozen choices in quality HD aftermarket pipes. And the XS really doesn't 'swap parts like legos', not with all the sub-variations between models/years. Sure, driveline parts trade fairly easily, but with nothing like the same ease with HD bits.

And while cross-model or cross-brand swapping is rarely easy, sometimes it pays to go 'outside the box'....

[11Rider]

As usual, ALL good info - thanks! I actually use those risers/adapters on my XR and have the fatbars on it. The fatbars are aluminum and come anodized in a few colors including black and titanium. I was leaning towards this set-up and thought it would add an interesting effect to the bike. But now you have me thinking about an HD set-up.

[crazy steve]

...But now you have me thinking about an HD set-up.

Here's a 'complete except for switches' chrome handlebar set for under $140....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/11-16...Q5fAccessories

You'll still need to get the switches (about $75 new aftermarket) for a full set-up. Note that this is a 11/16" master; HD also use a smaller 9/16" unit on the single-disc bikes that won't work with the XS dual discs. This is the '96-up style, the '82-95 type will also work (but you need the matching-year switches) and you may find those for less money. Watch for deals.... they do show up.

You'll have two main issues to overcome; the turn signal switches will require some rewiring on the bike to make the signals work, and fitting the clutch cable. This latter item will be the most work, as Harley doesn't have a cable adjuster at the lever; they use one in the middle of the cable. This may need to be made, but is doable....

Good luck!