Struggling with 1st carb rebuild.. STILL!

[JRcom]

Have read eveything here I could find on carb rebuilds. I have the XS1100E that has set for 22 years in my garage. I have carbs off and float bowls removed. My issue is the pins are not coming out of the floats. I am being super careful not to break the posts. I soaked them with PB Blaster and set for 24 hours, no dice. I then tried WD40 for 24 hours, still no dice. I also too have the screw in each of the pilot jet towers, they are not coming loose either. Any suggestions? I have 2 questions. #1 I also wanted to just cut the head end off the pin and pull it through that way. I have also read about folks using the replacement plastic floats. Are these the plastic floats for the BS34 CV carbs sold on MikesXS site, and can they be used? #2 Can the screws be replaced with the Rubber pilot jet passage plug used inside float bowl to seal passage to pilot jet so I do not encounter the problem getting these out again. I really need to get these old parts out 1st before moving on but was posting so I thought I was ask. All suggestions are considered and are greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[prometheus578]

Don't cut the head offa the pin. The only thing worse than being a pinhead, is being a headless pin.
The pins are tapered, sort of. Maybe in the process of machining the head... the pin diameter next to the head gets expanded. Either way... that's the area that usually gets stuck. Unless you build some sort of tool to press the pins out, you'll need to have that head on there to grab and pull out the pin.
A good pair of precision wire cutters seems to be the usual method, but then again, one can still bust off the float post.

If there's nothing wrong with your metal floats, I would keep using them. The plastic floats were used with a different style of float needle and you'd have to make all sorts of trial and error adjustments to get your fuel level correct.

There is a difference between the two style of carbs in terms of the float bowls. The carbs that have the rubber plug have a float bowl with a raised 'bump' that holds the rubber plug up in it's tower. The carbs you have, those bowls don't have that bump, so just shoving a rubber plug into the tower may not hold it in place... hence, the screw.

Don't have any handy tips for getting that screw out. Once you do get it out, clean it up with a wire brush and reuse it. It's only stuck because it's been corroded in place for the last thirty years. It won't get that way again in your lifetime. (or the remaining lifetime of the bike)

[John]

If the carbs have been cleaned well, and there are no gas vapors left, you could use a propane torch to lightly heat the posts around the pin, and the expansion may allow you to tap/pry the posts out. The flame from the torch is not hot enough to melt aluminum. You could also try the torch on the pilot jet tower screws.

[crazy steve]

Everybody has their own pet method for getting the float pins out (and some work better than others) but I never had any issues by using a good-condition (still have sharp serrations in the jaws) pair of needlenose pliers, gripping the head of the pin, and gently twisting/pulling the pin until it's loose. Turning the head is much more important than pulling...

[CaptonZap]

Try this post. <http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30036>
Or if that is more than you want to do;
A trick I used was to take a pair of baby channel locks, like those that come in a set of ignition tool sets, and grab the head end of the pin. Not to tight, you don't want to deform it. Clamp the carb in a vise, not to tight, etc. etc., and take a screw driver blade and push against the opposite side of the pin. With the channel locks, rotate the pin back and forth, breaking the varnish that holds the pin in. Worked for me. CZ

[SFerinTEXAS]

Have read eveything here I could find on carb rebuilds

]

Apparently not. Because that would negate all your questions

Had too much ice cream I guess

[Rasputin]

Try this post. <http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30036>
Or if that is more than you want to do;
A trick I used was to take a pair of baby channel locks, like those that come in a set of ignition tool sets, and grab the head end of the pin. Not to tight, you don't want to deform it. Clamp the carb in a vise, not to tight, etc. etc., and take a screw driver blade and push against the opposite side of the pin. With the channel locks, rotate the pin back and forth, breaking the varnish that holds the pin in. Worked for me. CZ

For some reason that link does not work...Try this link to it.
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30036

[mack]

Be very careful

I use a spring loaded center punch. You can adjust the tension and knock it out a little at a time. I always hold the tops of the post with a knuckle in between while I'm doing it so there is no lateral force on them. When I put the new pins in I always file that end down with sand paper so they slide in and out easier the next time.