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How I remove Float Pins

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  • How I remove Float Pins

    I used a set of channel lock pliers and a toilet speedy to make a tool.


    I cut a slice out of the Speedy with my angle grinder and cut off a piece that fit tightly between the float posts.


    I then slipped the small piece of the Speedy onto the float as seen here.


    Here is another view of it.


    Then I took my angle grinder to the channel lock pliers and did what you see in the next two pics.




    On the lower jaw of the pliers I removed the teeth with the angle grinder. This was done to prevent any damage or mushrooming of the pin from the teeth.


    This is what the upper jaw looks like in place at the head end of the Float Pin.


    Everything in place and ready for the big test.


    It took a really good squeeze to get the pin out. I am sure I would have broken a Float Post if I had tried any of the ways I have previously used. Once it moved I simply pulled it the rest of the way with some needle nose pliers.


    Here is a better look at how the Grooved speedy tube fit on the float.


    Then I simply slid the tube sideways off of the float. Now ready for the next one.


    I tried this for the first time last night. It worked super slick. It seemed that there was no real stress on the float posts themselves. Just thought I would share this and see what you guys think. Does anyone have any ideas to improve on this or see any potential problems I may have overlooked? Sorry the camera work is not better but Dummy here had a few too many beers and dropped the camera while trying to take these pics. It is broken and all out of whack but it still took these pictures. The wife is not so happy about her camera, but I had fun.
    2-79 XS1100 SF
    2-78 XS1100 E Best bike Ever
    80 XS 1100 SG Big bore kit but not fully running yet.
    Couple of more parts bikes of which 2 more will live!

  • #2
    Guess another way to "skin a cat" so to speak,with a bit of tinkeritese involved. Spring loaded center punch or side-cutters a simpler choice, but with the insert you've designed would at least add a little extra insurance......good on you.
    81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

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    • #3
      nice. .
      Trapped in time. Surrounded by evil. Low on gas.

      1980 XS1100G 1179 kit, Tkat brace, progressive springs & shocks, jardine spaghetti, Mikes coils, Geezer's rectifier

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      • #4
        Yeah, but there's still been broken posts with the center punch and the side cutters.
        Now then, Rasputin....
        Don't forget to take a file and grind down the pin by the head a little bit so that it won't stick next time. (The pin is tapered with the thickest part next to the head)
        Pins don't have to be tight in their holes. Most carbs just have a smooth rod in there, not a jammin' pin. (And even if'in the pin is loose, the recessed area of the float bowl would prevent it from coming out.)

        Nice idea building that thing to re-enforce the float posts.
        "Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)

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        • #5
          Very true Prom..........that's why I added the support/wedge was a good option no matter what the removal choice......
          81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

          Comment


          • #6
            That's pretty smooth.
            2H7 (79) owned since '89
            3H3 owned since '06

            "If it ain't broke, modify it"

            ☮

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            • #7
              Just something to keep in mind: the pin does NOT have to be in snug AT ALL when you assemble the carbs. The pin is COMPLETELY trapped by the bowl and can not come out enough to do anything with the bowl in place. Just make sure it is pressed in by hand far enough to clear the bowl and you are good to go.
              -- Clint
              1979 XS1100F - bought for $500 in 1989

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              • #8
                I have previously broken a float post using the side cutters route, that is why I decided to try this. I had thought of trying to make the tool that they ended up with in this thread.
                http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...ght=float+post
                But I only had what was in my garage at the time to work with and the beers kept me from driving anywhere to procure additional stuff. The tool has worked flawlessly on 8 pins so far, as I am working on two sets of carbs right now. This was cheap to make as the pliers are cheapies and the tube can be from anything stout enough to not be compressed. Metal tubing would be harder to slide over and would not mold itself around the float as easily though.
                Thanks for the info about sanding down the raised part of the pin, that will help future endeavours into the carbs.
                2-79 XS1100 SF
                2-78 XS1100 E Best bike Ever
                80 XS 1100 SG Big bore kit but not fully running yet.
                Couple of more parts bikes of which 2 more will live!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Very cool and elegant solution!!!
                  My question is....... What is a "toilet speedy"??
                  1980G Standard, Restored
                  Kerker 4 - 1
                  850 Rear End Mod
                  2-21 Flashing LED Arrays on either side of license plate for Brake Light Assist, 1100 Lumen Cree Aux Lights,
                  Progressive springs, Showa rear shocks
                  Automatic CCT
                  1980GH Special, Restored
                  Stock Exhaust, New Handlebars, 1" Spacer in Fork Springs, Automatic CCT, Showa Rear Shocks
                  '82 XJ1100 (Sold)
                  Automatic CCT, RC Engineering 4 X 1 Exhaust, K&N Pods, #50 Pilot Jets, YICS Eliminator. Sorely missed.

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                  • #10
                    Toilet speedy

                    A toilet speedy is the connection between the toilet bowl and the water supply line from the wall of your house. If you look behind your white porcelain convenience you will see something similar to hook up the water supply. Some are bendable metal and some are plastic. Of course looking back there can reveal things you don't want too see
                    2-79 XS1100 SF
                    2-78 XS1100 E Best bike Ever
                    80 XS 1100 SG Big bore kit but not fully running yet.
                    Couple of more parts bikes of which 2 more will live!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I've seen the metal ones and the reinforced hoses used for this purpose, but never a plastic one like the one you used.
                      1980G Standard, Restored
                      Kerker 4 - 1
                      850 Rear End Mod
                      2-21 Flashing LED Arrays on either side of license plate for Brake Light Assist, 1100 Lumen Cree Aux Lights,
                      Progressive springs, Showa rear shocks
                      Automatic CCT
                      1980GH Special, Restored
                      Stock Exhaust, New Handlebars, 1" Spacer in Fork Springs, Automatic CCT, Showa Rear Shocks
                      '82 XJ1100 (Sold)
                      Automatic CCT, RC Engineering 4 X 1 Exhaust, K&N Pods, #50 Pilot Jets, YICS Eliminator. Sorely missed.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        The ingenuity of the members on here never ceases to amaze me.
                        "If A equals success, then the formula is: A = X + Y + Z. X is work. Y is play. Z is keep your mouth shut." - Albert Einstein

                        "Illegitimi non carborundum"-Joseph W. "Vinegar Joe" Stilwell



                        1980 LG
                        1981 LH

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