bypassing kill switch

[paolo1]

ok so i suspect my starter button and kill switch are faulty which wires can i jumper or coonect to bypass the switch assembly to try and start the bike or wire in a push start button else where????

[Incubus]

Take your right hand handlebar switch apart. Disconnect the two R/W wires from the kill switch in the top of the switch casing. Put both wires on the same screw and screw it in. Voila, no kill switch.

Patrick

[CatatonicBug]

The kill switch and starter button are really simple devices that make obvious electrical connections. What makes you think they are faulty? If you take the housing apart, remove the 2 screws and lift the swich out (be careful not to loose the spring and metal contact strip). Clean the contacts, and re-assemble. The housing needs to ground to the handlebar, so if you have painted handlbars, that may be part of the issue.

[paolo1]

ok so itook my switch apart and cleaned the contacts.my hadle bars are painted and this is what is happening i hit the start button and i can hear and feel the starter switch clicking and then if i wiggle the button or fuss around with it it finally cranks over.

i have a quick question will gauges off xs1100 special work on standard ? other than fuel guage or light not working with the sending unit is there any other issues as i want the round gauges instead of the square as i am going to go with a cafe racer theme on this bike and think they look nicer for that look.....

[Ken Talbot]

[QUOTE=paolo1;296012]my hadle bars are painted and this is what is happening i hit the start button and i can hear and feel the starter switch clicking and then if i wiggle the button or fuss around with it it finally cranks over. QUOTE]

Gonna have to scrape more paint off the handlebar (at the switch and where the bars mount) to get a good ground connection, or run a ground wire.

[fredintoon]

- - - i have a quick question will gauges off xs1100 special work on standard ? other than fuel gauge or light not working with the sending unit is there any other issues - - -

Hi Paolo,
the round gauges will work just fine. I'm not sure if there are differences in the wiring to fix or not but if there are it's an easy fix. You can even get the red light to work by swapping in the thermistor sender from a Special tank.
Because the fuel sender holes in the Standard and Special tanks are on different sides of the tank tunnel the thermistor sender should point it's wires forwards instead of back or it'll be upside down and not come on until there's only a half-mile's worth of gas left in the reserve.

[subike]

ok
i have a quick question will gauges off xs1100 special work on standard ? other than fuel guage or light not working with the sending unit is there any other issues as i want the round gauges instead of the square as i am going to go with a cafe racer theme on this bike and think they look nicer for that look.....

I changed my clocks over from the square STD clocks to the round special clocks, There is a bit of a mission in doing this and some of the lights are different, ie the turning markers, the STD has 2 the Special 1. I wired the fuel gauge up to what I think was the headlight warning lamp, It glow bright red when a full tank and progressivly gets dimmer as fuel is consumed. IIRC it took me 2 hrs to rewire and fit the different clocks and headlights. I now run two 75mm lights which nicely match the clocks.

[rpgoerlich]

ie the turning markers, the STD has 2 the Special 1.

The 80 & 81 Specials have 2 as well.
80XS11SG Speedo
81XS11SH Speedo

[subike]

The 80 & 81 Specials have 2 as well.

Agree with you on that, the clocks I used were the 160mph clocks which are different again. Interestingly enough, my English assembled std has the square 160mph clocks with 2 signal warning lights, the only square set I have seen so far.....
But as a side note refering to the OP. Isolating or removing the kill switch IMO is a bad idea, have you ever slid off the back of the seat of a bike, and because you are holding on to the trottle, which is inevatably pinned wide open, the kill switch is all that you have to keep control of the beast. This was quite often the only option you had on the Kawasaki 500 2 stroke tripples when the power band came on. If you have ever ridden one of those Kwaka 2 stroke tripples, you will know what I mean.

[CatatonicBug]

Isolating or removing the kill switch IMO is a bad idea,

Definitely true. If you take the MSF course, the kill switch is how they tell you to shut off the bike EVERY TIME you dismount. The key is supposed to be secondary. Page 19 of the handbook outlines the FINE-C checklist.

[cywelchjr]

Agree with you on that, the clocks I used were the 160mph clocks which are different again. Interestingly enough, my English assembled std has the square 160mph clocks with 2 signal warning lights, the only square set I have seen so far.....
But as a side note refering to the OP. Isolating or removing the kill switch IMO is a bad idea, have you ever slid off the back of the seat of a bike, and because you are holding on to the trottle, which is inevatably pinned wide open, the kill switch is all that you have to keep control of the beast. This was quite often the only option you had on the Kawasaki 500 2 stroke tripples when the power band came on. If you have ever ridden one of those Kwaka 2 stroke tripples, you will know what I mean.

I would agree on many bikes, but these have a tipover switch that many others don't have, so if the bike ends up on it's side it's gonna stop if that's working. I know mine works because I dropped it in the driveway and that stopped it. My kill switch has never worked, and in 30 years of riding I can count the times I have used the kill switch on the fingers of one hand.

[subike]

I would agree on many bikes, but these have a tipover switch that many others don't have, so if the bike ends up on it's side it's gonna stop if that's working. I know mine works because I dropped it in the driveway and that stopped it. My kill switch has never worked, and in 30 years of riding I can count the times I have used the kill switch on the fingers of one hand.

I never want to have to get my bike in the position that the tip over switch is activated. I have used the kill switch many times in the past when riding powerfull bikes, I only weigh in at 70KG, so its easy for me to be hung out the back of the bike if I give it too much in a hurry

[79XS11F]

If you don't want to deface the paint on the handlebars you can run a ground wire to the switch box and ground it out somewhere else. Which ever way you fix it I would not recommend that you bypass the kill switch permanently. It's the only way to kill the engine without taking one hand off the bars.
Rob

[DGXSER]

The later year bikes, I believe 80 and up, I know 81 for sure, has a ground wire built into the switch. It attaches to the screw that holds the starter button down. It then runs out the harness and is part of the connector. It would be pretty easy to pull a black wire through the sheathign up to the switch, add a connector to mount it to that screw, and then splice a connector into any black wire, or even find a close screw to tie it to the frame some how.