steering bearings

[dingman29]

i had previously bought a set of all balls stem bearings for a 1980 xs1100 special. the bottom bearing did not fit... i may have ordered the wrong ones but it is way to late to return them... my question is the inner and outer diameter of the bottom bearing..

and it is supposed to sit flush with the bottom tree, right??

thanks
chris

[crazy steve]

If you were expecting a 'slip fit', it's a no go. The bottom bearing is a press fit onto the stem and doesn't sit flush either. There's a raised boss it presses to. The bearing number is 32006JR and may or may not have a seal attached; I've seen both types. If that's the number you have, it's the right bearing...

[dbeardslee]

I just replaced mine for the second time last week (long story). I used an All Balls bearing kit, and they fit fine but the bottom one is a tight fit. It should go pretty close to the bottom of the stem, but mine doesn't touch. I used a three pound sledge and a block of wood for a beater block on the bottom of the triple tree to drive it home the last 3" or so. Then I tightened the crap out of the upper nut with a ring wrench to pull it together a little more, and then backed it off and torqued to spec. You need to make sure the stem doesn't have any nicks in it as they can keep the bearing from seating.

I can't help you with the dimensions, but I did notice that Z1 Enterprises sells two different bearing kits for XS's. They look to be the same size bearings, but something must be different. You might try checking the fiche for different part numbers for various years. JAT

[crazy steve]

I just replaced mine for the second time last week (long story). I used an All Balls bearing kit, and they fit fine but the bottom one is a tight fit. It should go pretty close to the bottom of the stem, but mine doesn't touch. I used a three pound sledge and a block of wood for a beater block on the bottom of the triple tree to drive it home the last 3" or so. Then I tightened the crap out of the upper nut with a ring wrench to pull it together a little more, and then backed it off and torqued to spec. You need to make sure the stem doesn't have any nicks in it as they can keep the bearing from seating...

Tightening the stem to pull the lower bearing into place is not a recommended way to do this. You run the risk of 'flattening' the rollers and can end up with notchy steering. DAMHIK...

Looks like the only difference between the two Z-1 kits is one has an upper dust shield, one doesn't.

If you don't have access to a press, use a piece of heavy-wall pipe with an ID just slightly larger than the stem and longer than the stem (it's important that all force be applied to only the inner race) then beat it on. A BFH is a good thing here...

[dbeardslee]

Tightening the stem to pull the lower bearing into place is not a recommended way to do this.

Might not be recommended, but I've been doing bearings that way for 30 years and never had a problem (not to say you couldn't). 'Course it's not like I use a breaker bar - usually just a 3/8" ratchet. I think you're even more limited in the amount of torque you can apply with a ring wrench. As far as the way they work - it's like she's running on rails, and the faster I go the more stable it gets. Maybe I'm just lucky .

[crazy steve]

Might not be recommended, but I've been doing bearings that way for 30 years and never had a problem (not to say you couldn't)... Maybe I'm just lucky .

LOL, well, I'm not; lucky that is. Everytime I try to cut a corner it seems like it comes back and bites me.

I have noticed that bearing quality makes a difference in how much you can 'get away with', as the cheaper ones don't seem to be hardened as well. But if I don't try to 'cheat', I rarely have problems...

[dbeardslee]

Speaking of cheating, that's kind of why I was redoing them - again. First time that bottom race was giving me fits, but the surface was in excellent shape - so I left it in . I knew when I was doing it I was going to regret it, but I ignored that little voice in my head with predictable results. This time I took a dremel tool to the lower race, cut it out, and did it right. I'm not always lucky .

[prometheus578]

Geez, and no one mentioned the simple tips.
Before installing the lower bearing... Place the bottom tree (the stem) in the freezer for an hour. The little bit that the metal contracts makes the job of pressing the bearing onto it so much easier. (An old fork tube can also be used to 'press' the new bearing down.)
When you get the race of the lower bearing out of the steering head, take it to a bench grinder and grind down the outer diameter a bit so that it goes back into the steering head without sticking. You can then use this to 'press' the new race into place without hammering directly on it. Helps if you freeze the new race, too.
Remember, the new race doesn't sit flush with the bottom of the steering head but actually sits up in there a little further.

Pick up this long "Craftsman" punch. Put about an inch of the tip in a vise and bend a slight curve into it. Great for reaching down from the top of the steering head and knocking out the bottom race.

[John]

It also helps to cut/grind a notch in the lower bearing land ( the shoulder that the race contacts inside the steering head) to be able to drive it out next time, should the need arise.

[dbeardslee]

I noticed on mine there's already two notches on the inside (about the width of a standard screwdriver blade) just above where the races sit for removal. They looked like factory notches - not something that was done in a home workshop. Unfortunately I couldn't get enough bite on the race with a straight screwdriver, and my pry bars were too big to get into the hole. All I needed was something with a little bit of an angle on it to catch the race firmly. Craftsman sells some pry bars that are curved on the end, that might do the trick - kind of like Prom was suggesting.

[bikerphil]

The bent drift pin works great for removing the races, that is what I use. To install the lower bearing on the triple tree stem, I like to drive it on with an old bearing center, cut with a die grinder and a 1 1/2" piece of PVC pipe.

[dingman29]

does anyone have a pic by any chance

[Jamie]

Geez, and no one mentioned the simple tips.
Before installing the lower bearing... Place the bottom tree (the stem) in the freezer for an hour. The little bit that the metal contracts makes the job of pressing the bearing onto it so much easier. (An old fork tube can also be used to 'press' the new bearing down.)
When you get the race of the lower bearing out of the steering head, take it to a bench grinder and grind down the outer diameter a bit so that it goes back into the steering head without sticking. You can then use this to 'press' the new race into place without hammering directly on it. Helps if you freeze the new race, too.
Remember, the new race doesn't sit flush with the bottom of the steering head but actually sits up in there a little further.

Pick up this long "Craftsman" punch. Put about an inch of the tip in a vise and bend a slight curve into it. Great for reaching down from the top of the steering head and knocking out the bottom race.

Prom,
You beat me to the punch. Exactly, put the bearings in the freezer for a while prior to installation. Another trick, is take a dremel and a grinding stone and take off just a little of the inside of the bottom stem and they will fit right in. Second, take a dremel again and clean out the rim or lip really, really good to get a good seat and you're home. Hope this helps, good luck. BTW, the "All Balls" bearings are fantastic.

[crazy steve]

does anyone have a pic by any chance

What specifically do you want a picture of? There's not much to see here...

[dingman29]

There's that lip that looks as if the bearing just won't go over that at all...