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  • Trying to search out a leak

    Here's the dilemma, the front of my engine is covered in oil, and I have a hunch... but could be completely wrong. Here are some details, tell me what you guys think.

    She doesn't bleed when she sits.

    The leaked oil covers the entire front of the engine. Not the back.

    The valve cover gasket is newly/properly replaced.

    The oil was replaced shortly before an 800 mile trip (LA to Santa Cruz and Back)

    2/3rds through the back leg of the trip I down shifted, it sounded and felt like ****, I stopped and found just about no oil in her. (I was running Mobile1 syn)

    Put in 10-40 at the gas station, bike shifts rough, but from what I can tell has kept a consistent oil level.

    I think the oil is aerating out of this thing, what the hell is this thing?



    what ya think? little guy circled in red, can ya even see the picture?

  • #2
    damn, no picture...

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    • #3
      Entire front of the engine= Cam chain tensioner.
      Is it the thing that looks like this:


      They are known to leak around that plastic plug. They are also sometimes known to push that plug out and spit oil. (hence my "on the road repair" photo)

      Synthetic oils also have a tendency, in older bikes, to leak out places that you'd never thought would leak. They also tend to get past the rings and burn during combustion.
      Synthetic oils, when run in bikes not designed for them, can also cause clutches to slip and odd noises to appear.
      Once you find and fix your leak, stick to regular oil and all will be right in the world again.

      As for posting photos... sign up at 'Photobucket". (it's free)
      Post your pictures there and then paste the picture's "Http" address here.
      "Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by andrewraffaele View Post
        damn, no picture...
        Yeah, you can't use facebook as a photo-hosting site.

        The little rubber plug is about $5 at the dealer. I use a dab of RTV around the edge when I press it in, just to ensure a good seal. Part number is 90338-14004-00.
        1980 XS850SG - Sold
        1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
        Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
        Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

        Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
        -H. Ford

        Comment


        • #5
          One good way to trace motor leaks is to first clean the motor well, then apply talcum powder to the motor. Start it up, and the talc should show you right where it's leaking. That being said, Prom's probably right - cam chain tensioner is the most likely culprit, although any gasket has the potential to leak. My $.02
          I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

          '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

          Comment


          • #6
            you guys are golden, ya, that's the problem... When the bike came into my hands I ran about 5 types of oils through it, I even read the advice column from this site... But she always seemed to run best off Mobile1... I shall stick to 10-40 from now on though...

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by andrewraffaele View Post
              Here's the dilemma, the front of my engine is covered in oil, and I have a hunch... but could be completely wrong. Here are some details, tell me what you guys think.

              She doesn't bleed when she sits.

              The leaked oil covers the entire front of the engine. Not the back.

              The valve cover gasket is newly/properly replaced.

              The oil was replaced shortly before an 800 mile trip (LA to Santa Cruz and Back)

              2/3rds through the back leg of the trip I down shifted, it sounded and felt like ****, I stopped and found just about no oil in her. (I was running Mobile1 syn)

              Put in 10-40 at the gas station, bike shifts rough, but from what I can tell has kept a consistent oil level.

              I think the oil is aerating out of this thing, what the hell is this thing?



              what ya think? little guy circled in red, can ya even see the picture?
              When mine did this, it popped the round plug/seal out and it leaked like a siv
              when the motor was running. The fix was more then just replacing the plug. There is a lock bolt on the side of the tensioner. If it is over torqued (easy to do) the threads in the tensioner strip out allowing the plunger to act like a piston pump. I fixed mine with a heli-coil. Others have installed a self adjusting tensioner from a venture.

              My "E" doesn't like synthetic oil. It just seems to vaporize. Can't find any leaks and no smoke! I use 20W50 Castrol in all my bikes - works great!

              Deny
              1978 XS1100E - The TimeMachine
              1980 XS850 Special - Little Mo

              Comment


              • #8
                trying to search out a leak

                Had the same problem with my '80G. It's very common, and the mess can range far from the source.
                Follow DBeardslee's advice on the good clean-up, but use a spray powder deoderant, like Dry Idea, for the sourcing. Same idea as the talcum, just easier to apply and less messy to clean up later.
                Biker Phil was up on vaca, and he adjusted my tensioner and gooped the hole with black silicone-no plug used-and not a drop since.
                Good advice on over-torquing the adjustment and locking bolt and nut too.
                Too tight on either will cause problems.

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