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Front brake takes too much squeeze

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  • Front brake takes too much squeeze

    Six or eight Years ago I rebuilt the M/C, put in new pistons, and replaced lines with Spiegler SS. I guess the braking has degraded slowly, because until I rode a new FJR last week, I didn't realize they were bad. They release OK, but Now I realize it takes way too much pressure on the lever and the action is not modulating like it should.

    What should I be looking for? It's been too long for me to remember how well they worked, but I do remember a big improvement after rebuild and SS lines.
    Bob

  • #2
    Hey Buggrin,

    You may need to rebuild the Calipers? Corrosion can build up around the O-ring and inside the groove that the O-ring sits in, causing a much stiffer/tighter/harder squeezing action! When was the last time you bled your lines?

    I don't know for sure, but isn't the FJR a multi piston system, shorter throw, allowing for less squeeze pressure for the same brake pressure!?
    T.C.
    T. C. Gresham
    81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
    79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
    History shows again and again,
    How nature points out the folly of men!

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    • #3
      You've got that "glazed" look again.

      I'm not sure if what you mean is that you have to squeeze harder to get braking action.
      Just a quick thought:
      Take some sandpaper and scuff up your brake rotors a bit.
      Take a file and scrape off the surface glaze from your brake pads.
      "Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by buggrin View Post
        ..I guess the braking has degraded slowly, because until I rode a new FJR last week, I didn't realize they were bad...
        It may be they're just fine, but 30+ year old technology doesn't always 'compare' so well to the new stuff...
        Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

        '78E original owner - resto project
        '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
        '82 XJ rebuild project
        '80SG restified, red SOLD
        '79F parts...
        '81H more parts...

        Other current bikes:
        '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
        '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
        '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
        Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
        Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

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        • #5
          Remember too that you are supposed to flush your brake system every couple of years. The moisture that collects in the system over time can cause lots of issues.
          1980 XS850SG - Sold
          1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
          Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
          Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

          Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
          -H. Ford

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          • #6
            Maybe time for some new pads. I've found that old pads seem to get a bit hard over time and don't stop as well as fresh new ones. YMMV. Single piston calipers don't stop very well in the first place.
            2H7 (79) owned since '89
            3H3 owned since '06

            "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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            • #7
              +1 to what PROM said!

              Deny
              1978 XS1100E - The TimeMachine
              1980 XS850 Special - Little Mo

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks for the response. Looks like I need to pull the M/C and front calipers and replace the pads. It's been 7 years since they were rebuilt.

                Any suggestions as to where to get replacement pads for a 78E?

                Today a clueless cager locked em up right in front of me as soon as a light turned yellow. Going 45 or so. Good thing the left lane was open or we woulda eaten some bumper. It finally stopped amungst a bunch of brake squeel and I had brake lever impressions on my fingers. They are more like an on/off switch and the modulation is very difficult to feel. Dangerous.

                There's no doubt the FJRs ABS is a far superior system. One finger with medium pressure would be enough to lock up the front in a panic situation but the feel is so good that confidence, not panic comes at first touch.
                Bob

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                • #9
                  I'm sure you're aware that the idea behind ABS is that the tires DON"T lock up. Once a tire locks up and starts skidding... you've lost your traction for stopping.
                  ABS pumps the brakes... and as soon as it starts to lock up it releases again.
                  As for buying brake pads... any shop can order them for you. They all use the same suppliers and most order and stock EBS brand brake pads anyway.

                  Another question... though maybe it's just a term you use...
                  What is this modulation that you speak of?
                  "Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by prometheus578 View Post
                    I'm sure you're aware that the idea behind ABS is that the tires DON"T lock up. Once a tire locks up and starts skidding... you've lost your traction for stopping.
                    ABS pumps the brakes... and as soon as it starts to lock up it releases again.
                    As for buying brake pads... any shop can order them for you. They all use the same suppliers and most order and stock EBS brand brake pads anyway.

                    Another question... though maybe it's just a term you use...
                    What is this modulation that you speak of?
                    Yes, I know what ABS means. Maybe shoulda said one finger is enough to activate the pumper.

                    Modulation means to be able to vary the stopping power by changing pressure on the lever. Mine do vary with squeeze pressure, but the stopping pressure is very difficult to control due to the high force needed on the lever
                    Bob

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                    • #11
                      Thought you were referring to pulsing caused by warped rotors.
                      "Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)

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