need some help here guys please!!!

[paolo1]

so here is what i got so far bike sat for long time took it apart cleaned it up and stripped it down to bare essentials took off gas tank,exhaust ,wired in blade type fuse box,and attached mini tank with fuel stabilizer in it hung from ceiling directly into the carbs just to loosen things up,installed new plugs installed brand new battery from yamaha,changed all fluids,and removed air box and air filter.

i want to just start this bike up to see if it runs at all and if so what needs to be addressed.i have no keys yet for ignition so i have a rocker switch wired as such 1 wire going to the red and other end has 2 wires feeding the tan and blue when switch is on.when i turn the switch on my instrument cluster lights up then i go to hit the start button and nothing.

first question is what all does this bike require to be hooked up to kick start it over to start?

second can i just bypass the start button with a jumper across the terminals on the starter switch and start it that way? cause i tried this wiith a wire that has a 30 amp fuse on it and jumped the terminals and the starter begins to turn over then the fuse pops....so i don't want to try this again until i am told i will not harm anything.....how can i bypass the starter switch if it is faulty just to start it and evaluate the bike ? could it be the kill switch?

do the carbs require fuel pressure to work cause i disconnected temp fuel tank when i went to start it in case of spark but i can smell fuel when i try to kick start it i think it is what is in the fuel bowls still....

this bike has a tci but that should only affect the spark output correct i just want to take baby steps and first get it to try turning over than work my way down the problem trail...... please any input as to course of action would be deeply appreciated

[paolo1]

ok so here is an up date after fudging around with starter button on handle bar switch and quite a few attempts at turning it over it finally started but would only stay running as long as i had the throttle twisted.i have no exhaust on it and no vacum lines attached as i only have the 2 main fuel lines hooked up to a sealed container with a little bit of fuel.i will throw the exhaust back on tomorrow but what else needs to be hooked up fuel wise to ensure it gets a steady fuel supply so that i can let go of throttle and have it run on it's own???????

[b.walker5]

If you havent already done it, make sure you plug the vacuum lines for the fuel taps. Sucking air through them will upset the mixture and could be the cause of your idling troubles. Make sure the vacuum line to the ignition advance is connected.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Advice

ok so here is an up date after fudging around with starter button on handle bar switch and quite a few attempts at turning it over it finally started but would only stay running as long as i had the throttle twisted.i have no exhaust on it and no vacum lines attached as i only have the 2 main fuel lines hooked up to a sealed container with a little bit of fuel.i will throw the exhaust back on tomorrow but what else needs to be hooked up fuel wise to ensure it gets a steady fuel supply so that i can let go of throttle and have it run on it's own???????

Advice! don't run this bike with no exaust, for a host of reasons, next, don't run with no air filter at all, "anything" that gets picked up and goes through the carb could spell. Next "all" 4 intake vac lines need to be capped and if you dont have the vac advance connected to the "#2 Carb body" ay least cap it off at the carb! The time you spend to start is right will be much less then the $$$ and time you spend to fix it

[paolo1]

where would i find the vacum for the ignition advance to plug in or cap off? i will put the exhaust back on before restarting and plug the vaum lines at the carbs as well....should i put a vent on my temp fuel container so that the gas can be sucked out by the carbs better also....like i said i don"t want to ride this yet but have it run for a few minutes so i can have a listen to it and see if anything major is wrong than plug away at it....thanx guys keep the info coming

[b.walker5]

The ignition vac port is on the body of #2 carb, (second from left side) but you should have a hose connected to it that goes to the ignition cover on the left side of the crankcase. It's important to have that one connected. The rest of the vacuum ports on the rubber manifolds can, and should be capped off for your temporary arrangement.

Having a vented cap probably wouldnt be needed for a short run, providing you've got plenty of height and enough fuel, but if you want to run for more than a few minutes then you may need to do it.

Definately have an exhaust of some sort, for back pressure, (lack of it will give you trouble) and to make it easier to direct the fumes away from where you want to be working. Make sure your not running it in a confined space. It will use the oxygen and replace it with carbon monoxide very quickly.

[DGXSER]

These bikes are pretty finicky about back pressure and air flow. I have run my bike with the air filter and bottom of the air box pulled before. It will run kind of crappy, and then put it back on and it runs smooth as ice. So put the exhaust back on and possibly even the air box if you want a true assessment of how the bike will run.

As to it running with no throttle and such, on a bike that sat for a loong time. In my opinion, your wasting your time trying to get it to run at idle or see how "well" it runs, until you at least pull the carbs off and go through them cleaning all the crud out of them. These bikes need the "choke" to run when cold even in 90 degree weather. The "choke" (really an enrichment circuit) needs this little jet that is inside the float bowl to flow well for it to operate. Then you hit the idle circuit with alot of small openings. So really, without cleaning the carbs up good, all you should expect is if it will run, nevermind how well.

As to the vent for fuel and such. My bikes will/would both run well for about 1/2 mile or so with the choke on with the fuel taps turned off (after the initial warm up that is, still with taps off). So they can run for a few minutes or so off of what is in the bowls.

[yamtom]

all are right

Hi,

They all have given you good advice, but Dons is most complete I think. If that bike sat for even one year with old gas, the carbs maybe stuck up, clean them thouroughly, please see file named.. carb cleaning 101 ...on this site for great info on that.

My MNS sat for only two months last fall, and the carbs sat for long enough to need to be cleaned. It went from running well in late Oct, to wont start at all in early December. All I can figure is that my carb cleaning case was a bit extreme, but all I did to correct it was clean and rebuild the carbs, its been running fine since then. There didnt appear to be any original BAD parts in my carbs, just too much dirt and varnish plugging everything. Especially in the pilot circuit, small holes plug up easy, and also, the intake screens at the needle and seat were very bad with yellowish looking crud. That carb bowl hole was a bugger for me, and the three tiny holes at the tip of the butterflys were not easy to get cleaned either.