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I have 81 xs1100 with a turn singal prob they come on but don't flash i replaced the turn flasher and still no flash. When i hit the to turn it lights up but don't flash any help would be great i have 2 weeks to get them fixed got a ticket for them not working thanks for the help in advance
I don't know for sure if this will solve your problem. Are you using the proper bulb? Should be a single pole 1156 bulb.
JAT
Four wheels move your body, two wheels move your soul.
ATGATT, It could save your life!
1980 XS 1100SG
Dyna 3 Ohm Hi Output Coils
Pod Filters
DynoJet Kit
T.C.'s Fuse Block
Slip Streamer Turbo Windshield
Custom Tank and Side Cover Decals
V-Max Auto CCT
My turn sigs were doing that, especially at lower rpm. New battery didn't fix it. I pulled the panel that holds the fuses and flasher. Behind it are 3 or 4 major plugs of the wiring harness. When I opened 'em up, grey dust flew out, and there were green traces of corrosion on the plastic cases. I sprayed them with penetrating oil, cause it was all I had available. Plugged and unplugged them each a few times to scrub up the contact surfaces, put 'em all back together. Now my flasher flashes even at low rpm. Also check for bad ground connections along the turn signal curcuit, battery to frame, frame to motor. Good luck.
1980 XS 11 Special: The King of Kong, 9th wonder of the world. Pacifico fairing, chopped shield, Yamaha hard bags, Diamond seat, T-Kat fork brace, XJ top end, YICS Eliminator, '80 carbs from Spyder Cycle Works, K&N Air filter, Fuse block, stainless steel valves & reg/rect from Oregon MC Parts. Raptor CCT, XJ air shocks, 850 FD, Sportster mufflers, Standard handle bar, Tusk Bar Risers, SS braided brake lines. Cat Eye speedometer. HID projector beam headlight, LED running lights.
did they ever work for you? What kind of flasher did you put in it?
Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters Green Monster Coils SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
It does take the right amount of draw for the stock flasher to flash. So to small of a wattage bulb or bad or dirty connections and it will not flash also.
Like stated, I'd clean up your wiring connectors all the way through the circuit at least, and check the fuse and connections to the fuse especially if it is still stock.
Life is what happens while your planning everything else!
When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.
81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection
Previously owned
93 GSX600F
80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
81 XS1100 Special
81 CB750 C
80 CB750 C
78 XS750
Three prong auto flashers won't work, but a two prong standard auto flasher will. Sometimes the tan and tan/wht wires need to be reversed in the connector plug, which snaps open.
Three prong auto flashers won't work, but a two prong standard auto flasher will. Sometimes the tan and tan/wht wires need to be reversed in the connector plug, which snaps open.
I THINK that's only with the XJ's (I could be wrong though) as I know mine didn't need to be, and AFAIK all the XS11's are wired the same there and use the same flasher, it's just a matter of getting the right 2 prong unit (although I've used 3 different ones and all of them worked fine).
Cy
1980 XS1100G (Brutus) w/81H Engine
Duplicolor Mirage Paint Job (Purple/Green)
Vetter Windjammer IV
Vetter hard bags & Trunk
OEM Luggage Rack
Jardine Spaghetti 4-2 exhaust system
Spade Fuse Box
Turn Signal Auto Cancel Mod
750 FD Mod
TC Spin on Oil Filter Adapter (temp removed)
XJ1100 Front Footpegs
XJ1100 Shocks
I was always taught to respect my elders, but it keeps getting harder to find one.
turn singal prob they come on but don't flash i replaced the turn flasher and still no flash.
Classic indication of dirty electrical connections. Start with your battery connectors, move to the grounding attachments, then trace down and clean every possible bullet connector and fuse connector from the front of the bike to the rear. When they're all clean and your bettery is in good condition, your signals will flash with the engine sitting at an 800 rpm idle waiting for a light to turn green.
ok i replaced the flasher the one under the fuse box on the right side of the bike the batterie is new fully charged so my next step is to clean all the connections? and the bike did sit for 5 years and he said they worked when he stoped riding it and where is this other flasher? i saw the auto shutoff thingey thanks for the help so far i will do the plug cleaning thing this weekend
ok i replaced the flasher the one under the fuse box on the right side of the bike the batterie is new fully charged so my next step is to clean all the connections? and the bike did sit for 5 years and he said they worked when he stoped riding it and where is this other flasher? i saw the auto shutoff thingey thanks for the help so far i will do the plug cleaning thing this weekend
Hi '81,
your bike got 4-ways? If so, they have a separate flasher that's under the seat (on my '80, anyway). So try the 4-ways. If 4-ways flash and normals just come on and stay on, it's most likely the main flasher unit.
It's never wrong to clean all the wiring terminals BTW, but it may not be your problem.
About the stock flasher, it's the only one that's compatible with the self-canceling unit and it only works with a load equal to four 27Watt bulbs. A greater load and it flashes faster, a lesser load, like replacing one of the 27Watt bulbs with a 22Watt automotive bulb, and the flashers just come on but don't flash.
You can still get new Yamaha flasher units but the ~$80 price is a drawback. You might get lucky taking the existing unit apart and cleaning the points inside but that's a long shot.
A 3-pin automotive flasher is wired up differently inside and just won't work. A 2-pin automotive flasher (the electronic ones work best) plugs into the 3-pin socket two ways. One way don't work, the other way works the flashers regardless of the lamp Wattage but the self-canceler won't work.
Fred Hill, S'toon
XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
"The Flying Pumpkin"
Thanks for all the help so far everyone now my question is how do you tell if the bulb is a 22W or a 27w? i can pull the bulbs out and check the fron turn and head light came off a xs650 i beleave the guy said because i took off the fairing (anyone want to buy and fairing?) so maybe the bulbs are differant thanks again i will check the bulbs but how do you tell the watages?
Thanks for all the help so far everyone now my question is how do you tell if the bulb is a 22W or a 27w? i can pull the bulbs out and check the fron turn and head light came off a xs650 i beleave the guy said because i took off the fairing (anyone want to buy and fairing?) so maybe the bulbs are differant thanks again i will check the bulbs but how do you tell the wattages?
Sometimes you can't; some bulbs are marked with watts, most aren't. Trying to read them with a meter is a waste of time too, as the ohms difference is usually at most meters accuracy threshold. If you have sharp eyes, the higher-wattage lamps have heavier (thicker) filaments and some will have a 'support' for the middle of the filament. These are 'heavy duty' lamps and are used for better vibration resistance. You'll probably have trouble finding these at an auto parts store, but most bike places should have 'em...
Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...
Thanks for all the help so far everyone now my question is how do you tell if the bulb is a 22W or a 27w? i can pull the bulbs out and check the fron turn and head light came off a xs650 i beleave the guy said because i took off the fairing (anyone want to buy and fairing?) so maybe the bulbs are differant thanks again i will check the bulbs but how do you tell the watages?
Hi '81,
like Steve sez, sometimes it's written on the bulb and sometimes it ain't.
Here's a Q&D check for bulb wattage. Hook a third light into the system to increase the load, if the flasher starts to work one or both of the bulbs have been swapped for 22Watt ones.
Fred Hill, S'toon
XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
"The Flying Pumpkin"
ok i replaced the flasher the one under the fuse box on the right side of the bike the batterie is new fully charged so my next step is to clean all the connections?
One quick way to tell if your connections need attention is to run the voltage tests on your TCI. If you put one dmm probe on the orange, grey, red/wht, and wht/red (from the back of the large connector on the TCI while it's connected, with the ignition on but not running) one wire at a time, and one probe to ground and take a reading. You should see 12v. If it's less than that it's generally an indication that the connectors are robbing voltage. You won't be testing the lighting circuits, but it should give you an indication of the overall integrity of your connectors/wiring. JAT
Another thing that can cause your flashers not to flash is the handlebar switch itself. It can get pretty grungy inside, and there are several solder connections inside you might want to check. It's another place you may experience a voltage loss.
I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.
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