clutch help please...

[freak_leg]

Hey guys. Work on the XS has been slow but steady. Work here and there on the carbs new plugs ect. Here is where I need more help. I changed my plugs (way overdue) now I've got full power on the high end and a lot more down low, I still need to change my carb jets and make a few tweaks, but now that I have full power up high my clutch can't hold the power wide open much past 6.5k. I plan to go threw all this stuff this winter. Its running and the season is coming to an end so I just want to keep it going another couple months. Is there anything I can do to tighten up the clutch a little bit to reduce the slipage for another couple hundred miles?

P.S. Now that the bike is running on all 4 holes (I had one plug that was fouled) I'm astounded by the power of this old girl. I thought it was quick on 3... Dear lord!

[bikerphil]

First, make sure your clutch is adjusted properly. If it still slips, I'd recommend installing new clutch springs. Shouldn't take but an hour to do. Also, make sure your motor oil doesn't contain any friction modifiers.

[ManagerMike]

I had the same experience last year when I first got mine running. These beasts really lay down the smack at higher rpm's, I dealt with it the abbrieviated remainder of the season, took it easy, and replaced the friction discs over winter. You think you got power now? Wait till your clutch can hang with WOT!

[cywelchjr]

I would suggest making sure your clutch is adjusted correctly, AND also make sure that your not using oil with the "energy saving" rating as this can make the clutch slip, and if your using oil with that rating, changing to oil without it MIGHT help the slipping problem. I have to be careful about the type of oil I use, as the thinner oils sometime seem to have the friction modifiers even if not marked, as can your synthetic blends.

Don't misunderstand, there are quite a few who run both synthetic and friction modifier oils without problem, but sometimes switching to MC specific (which I get at my local auto parts store for just slightly more than normal auto oil) oil will correct clutch problems.

[DGXSER]

On every XS I have worked on, the clutch disk and steels have been well within spec. The springs are often not. So I would go along with the new spring theory.

As BikerPhil stated, it is pretty easy to replace the springs. If you lean the bike on the side stand, you do not even need to drain the oil! Just pull the clutch cover off, and tie it up out of the way wiht the cable still attached. Then pull the start plate off, slowly and one or two turns per bolt evenly around. You can order new springs from your local shop, I got Heavy Duty springs for less than $15. Then reverse the order, mount springs and star plate, remount clutch cover. If you get lucky the gasket comes off in one piece and you can reuse it also.

After replacing the springs, definitely go through the full clutch adjustment procedure. then ride hard as you like and you will most likely find no more slipping.

[freak_leg]

ok, 2 questions.
1) If I turn the adjustment screw under the clutch cover in the 1/4 turn would that make the slip worse? or should I back it out a 1/4 turn or so?

2) I'm pricing new parts to replace the clutch. The only site that comes to mind is bikebandit. but they are pretty proud of their stuff. Does anyone know of a site that doesn't want an arm and a leg for parts?

[DGXSER]

Hey Tony,

Tightening or turnign that center screw clockwise in 1/4" will cause the mechanism to keep pressure on the clutch throw out bearing longer. Keeping pressure on the throw out bearing si what lets the plates separate and slip by each other. So tightening it in will cause more slip. Loosening it out 1/4 turn will cause the it to disengage from the throw out bearing sooner and therefore let the clutch disc and steels have more friction sooner. This should allow the clutch to slip less.

The concept in your case is that the screw is never getting a gap from the throwout bearing. So, first back it out a few turns or so. Then tighten it back i until it just touches the bearing (or bottoms out with out alot of torque applied). Then back it out that 1/4 turn and hold it there while you tighten the lock nut.

[freak_leg]

sounds good, I'll have to mess with that a little bit tonight. Any thoughts on buying used clutch setups from flea bay? I know there is no promise of anything better than I have now. Just wanted to know what you guys think?

[bikerphil]

For clutch frictions and springs, I use Partsnmore. Good quality and prices can't be beat. Never had any problems with their clutch discs....

https://www.partsnmore.com/cat_index...ategory=engine

[DGXSER]

I've not had to buy any clutch parts but springs so far. All of mine have been in spec, actually close to new. Might try measuring them up and see what you have to start with.