Crash Bar/Engine Guard interchangeability, Handling & Fuel Gauge?

[chanley28]

1st I would like to say that I have only had my bike for a little less than a week now, and have already learned a great deal from you guys so thanks for that.

I will list my questions in number form so it is easier for me to sort the replies. All questions apply to my bike which is a 1982 XJ1100J Maxim.

1). I really want to put some crash bars or engine guards or whatever they are called on my bike but am having a terrible tie trying to find them. From a couple of the threads I have read through it looks like some of the years and models are interchangeable for the guards, but I would like a little help with which bars will fit from other bikes if at all please?

2). The handling on my bike feels a little squirrely at times, and makes me extremely nervous while I am riding. I checked the air pressure in the front forks, and the air pressure in the tires (both are good), but it just doesn't feel right to me for some reason. This is the first time I am riding one of these bikes, so I am getting used to it, but maybe a little advice guys?

3). Every time I start the bike the red warning light comes on, I get the BATT, the OIL, and the FUEL lights. First I know the fuel gauge does not work (sucks and is one of the first things I want to fix on this bike lol), second I checked the oil level...... oh yeah thats another thing, 3a). How do you remove the damn cap from the rear final drive to measure the oil level in there. It is a wierd looking cap, and I can't figure out if you are supposed to unscrew it, or pry it out of there or what, so I left that alone until I get some help. so back to the first part of the question, OIL LIGHT checking all of the fluid levels it looks like they are good, cant figure out why the oil light is coming on, then finally the battery.. I just haven't tried to fill it with distilled water yet, but where is the sensor for this light located just in case I fill it, and is still shows. I havent noticed any loss of power or anything as far as the battery is concerned. Does the service manual give you the conditions the bike faults have to be n for the lights to come on?

4). Saddle bags, I saw one guy had his bike outfitted with saddle bags, and a taller sissy bar, and a rack behind it with a nice hard case on it...... Where the **** do you find this stuff, I have done a dozen searches at different sites and none of them show having parts for my bike. All very frustrating stuff, because I have fallen in love with this bike, and would like to get it back into shape with some nicer ammenities like a windshield, highway pegs, some saddle bags (hard or soft), and get these little gauge light issues fixed. I would really like to do the work myself as well, and learn how to work on these bikes, since it has 25000 miles on it, and from the looks of some other bikes out there I think this scooter has plenty of life left on her.

ANY HELP HERE WOULD BE OUTSTANDINGLY APPRECIATED! THANKS GUYS!

[DiverRay]

OK, here we go!
1. ANY XS1100 crash bar should fit. They almost ALL are the "engine guard" type, and bolt to the front engine mounts.
2. Look at the date code on the tires! You should be able to find an oval near the D.O.T. mark that has 2709, or something like that. the first two digits are the week, the last one or two are the year. If the tire is over four to five years old, REPLACE IT! The life you save WILL be your own.
Second cause probably is the steering stem bearings. Find member catatonicbug and look at his signature. he has online manuals you can download that will help with the work on your bike. If the bearings are too tight or loose, the steering gets bad quickly.
3. On the XJ, it goes through the warning lights at startup. it's like a selftest for the system. If the lights stay on, there is probably a wiring issue. The manual is a BIG help with that.
4. Saddle bags. I have a set on ebay at the moment that are LARGE soft bags. They will fit almost any bike, as will most other soft bags. For hard bags, you will probably have to modify the mounts you get with the bags to make them fit. IF you stick with the 750/850 triple, XS1100 bags that should be easy, if you have a welder.
5.WELCOME TO THE SITE!

[Cobia]

Hey Chanley,
Welcome to the site. It would be helpful if you specify your location in your description. We have memebers here from all over the world and you never know who might be close by and can ride and help. Also, put your bike type in your signature, that way when you seek help people will know what you ride.
1- Crash bars, as Ray said they're all interchangeable although if you use the three point ones you'll need a longer front upper engine mounting bolt.
I have a set of two point ones I can let you have fairly cheap. PM me.
2- Handling: Again ditto with Ray, but also look at the front axle bearings and adjustment. Adding a TKAT fork brace makes a world of difference too. I know it did with my bikes.
3- Idiot lights: as Ray said they come on as a system check. If they stay on, again, it's typically electrical in nature. I know I had to do some mods to mine to get it to operate properly. Example, there's a switch in the clutch lever assembly that will not let it start if the clutch is engaged. My switch was bad so I simply cut the wires, spliced them together and voila!! problem gone.
BTW - you can turn the idiot lights off with the leftmost button on your console.
Middle and rear gear 'boxes' oil level checks and filling are done via those allen head plugs you see. Some have some plastic dressup plugs where you would insert the allen wrench which hide this. There are several tech tips here on how to deal with stripped filler plugs.
4- Saddle bags: typically a custom installation, get creative.

Good luck and welcome.

[CatatonicBug]

Welcome to the forum! It looks like these guys have you covered with most of your questions. As mentioned, you can get the manual for the XJ from the link in my signature. I do have a couple things to add though:

1. Look for the 3-point engine guards. The 2-point ones (just a single tube, bent in a "U" shape) will literally fold back against the engine, and go right through the case in the event of an impact! Unfortunately, they are not easy to find, so be patient and keep looking. Ebay is good for stuff like that.
3. The XJ uses a sensor in the battery to measure fluid level. There is also one in the rear Master cylinder, and an oil level (not pressure) sensor that the XS's don't have. The battery sensor comes with the battery, and just has a place to connect the sensor wire to it. There are several XJ owners who have bypassed the sensor so they can use the batteries that don't come with one. Look in the Tech Tips for that info.

The final drive cap is NOT the thing at the very top of the final drive! That is a vent. The filler cap is at the REAR of the final drive, and opens with an allen wrench. Don't damage that vent cap, because new ones can be hard to locate.

[Roy Bean]

Here is some bars. I just pulled this one up to get you in the ball park.

I just sold a set of these. The three point are better. Roy

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/yamah...ts_Accessories

[DGXSER]

Regarding the crash bars/engine guards, if you can, get the 3 point type. Unless they are just for looks and a place to hang your highway pegs. The two points pretty much fold up and crush your engine cases when called upon.

[crazy steve]

...1. Look for the 3-point engine guards. The 2-point ones (just a single tube, bent in a "U" shape) will literally fold back against the engine, and go right through the case in the event of an impact! Unfortunately, they are not easy to find, so be patient and keep looking. Ebay is good for stuff like that...

+1 on the engine guards. The 2-point units are only useful if the bike falls over while not moving. Any forward motion, and they fold right up, doing more damage than if you didn't have guards. DAMHIK...

2. Handling. Multiple things here... First, don't use any tire dressing on your tires (ArmourAll, etc) as that will make 'em slippery. Tire pressures, try pumping them up, as the factory pressures are more for ride than handling; 40 psi F/R will be close. Tire age, well, there's varying opinions on that. The 'official' replacement recommendations are based on conditions in Phoenix AZ (the hottest city in America), so if you don't live in the sunbelt, they'll last considerably longer. If there's any cracking/weatherchecking, replace 'em. If you don't know the history of the front forks, changing the fork oil is an excellent idea; any signs of leaking, install new seals. Also check the suspension pivot points (swingarm, fork neck) and wheel bearings for tightness, as any play at any of these will cause handling problems.

4. Accessories for these bikes are probably all out of production, and even when new the choices weren't that great. Stuff that fits on the front (W/S, fairings) are pretty much all interchangable, but at the back of the bikes it's much more model-specific. The XJ was a one-year-only model in the US, so some 'adapting' may be needed...

Welcome!

[chanley28]

You guys are awesome !

You all have pretty much answered most of my questions, so thanks for that. I guess the bike I have does not have a center stand which really sucks for checking the oil level and all of that. To elaborate on this final drive thing (just so I am crystal clear) the filler cap is not the smooth cap on the top? When I was looking at the owners manual it looked like this is where you are supposed to check the level of your lube with the little plastic dip stick for checking the level. Only thing is that it does not have any surface for unscrewing, or even any indication on how to remove it in the OM. So I guess I am a bit confused here. Thanks to catatonicbug's manuals download I think I will be able to figure it out.

also thanks for the help with the crash bars to, hopefully I will never actually need to use them for crashing, but I am a bigger guy, so my main motivation here is for front place to put my feet when cruzing.

How hard of a job is the front fork seal/oil change. I have never done this type of repair, and I get a little hesitant when it comes to messing with the forks. So if any of you guys in the forum here are from the chicago area, and wouldn't mind helping me out with this, I would definately feel a lot better about the job. I called the Yamaha dealer nearest me just to ask about the damn final gear cap for checking the oil, and the guy wouldn't even tell me that over the phone lol like I am going to bring it there just so he can worry me into spending hundreds there lol.

I saw some pics of a really cool set up off of a sissy bar that has a rack, and a case on it, then hard cases on the sides. I really dont care if they are soft or hard, but I would like something other than bungee cording my duffel bag to the short little sissy bar the bike came with lol

[chanley28]

ok ok

So I downloaded the final gear manual (once again thanks catatonicbug), and saw that the cap I was attempting to remove is in fact the breather, luckilly all I did was manage to scratch up the casing a little bit, so I now see where I need to open at the back of the gearcase to check the level.

Question about the oil sensor, or warning light: When I try to hold the bike as steady as possible and check the oil level in the engine through the window, it looks like the level is right in the middle of the full mark, yet the light comes on for the oil every time I start the bike, This is just for the oil level of the engine right? it is not for the oil level of the middle and final gears correct?

Also the fork brace that was mentioned earlier in the thread, where do you get it? maybe that would hemp my situation with the feeling I get on the bike. I wish one of you guys were close by, so I could be re assured about this. I have taken it up to 50mph, but I have not wanted to go on the highway with it or anything yet.

I noticed that the bike came with a 2 -1 exhaust stock, but mine came with a 4-1 exhaust and sounds like a crotch rocket. When I downshift at higher speed I hear a lot of popping, not like a backfiring noise, but just i don't know how to accurately describe it, anyway I really don't want to get into carb work or jets or anything, but is there an easy way to check if the jets are right or not? without taking anything apart?

[DGXSER]

As to the fork oil, it is not to difficult, hardest part is getting the new oil in, but there are a few ways to do it that are not to terrible.

Question about the oil sensor, or warning light: When I try to hold the bike as steady as possible and check the oil level in the engine through the window, it looks like the level is right in the middle of the full mark, yet the light comes on for the oil every time I start the bike, This is just for the oil level of the engine right? it is not for the oil level of the middle and final gears correct?

Stop right there!!! That light is for oil PRESSURE, not level. So, if you have plenty of oil which it sound slike you do, but the light stays on, then you may well have an oil pump issue. Most likely, the gear that drives the oil pump is out of place, I have seen it a few times. One way to check is to look on the back of the engine, where the carbs are mounted, in the middle of them is a steel tube bolted to the head. Crack that bolt loose and then start the engine, but be prepared to shut it off quickly. If oil squirts out with force, then you have another issue causing that light to come on, if not, you have an oil pump issue.

Also the fork brace that was mentioned earlier in the thread, where do you get it? maybe that would hemp my situation with the feeling I get on the bike. I wish one of you guys were close by, so I could be re assured about this. I have taken it up to 50mph, but I have not wanted to go on the highway with it or anything yet.

The fork brace is sold be a member name TKat. Somewhere on here we have a section on stuff folks are selling that will have that listed.

I noticed that the bike came with a 2 -1 exhaust stock, but mine came with a 4-1 exhaust and sounds like a crotch rocket. When I downshift at higher speed I hear a lot of popping, not like a backfiring noise, but just i don't know how to accurately describe it, anyway I really don't want to get into carb work or jets or anything, but is there an easy way to check if the jets are right or not? without taking anything apart?

The light popping could just be the carbs are running slightly lean. You can find the mixture screw on the top of the outlet bell of the carbs and turn it counterclockwise a half turn each. See if that clears it up. No way to check jet sizes but pull them off and open them up, but that is not as hard or bad as it may seem. These carbs are relatively easy.

[Rasputin]

Tkat fork brace
http://www.tkat.com/forkbrace.html
Give him some time to reply, sometimes it takes a bit. He is really good to deal with and has a quality product.

Checking if the jetting is correct for your bike can be as simple as taking the plugs out and checking the color. Do not be afraid of these carbs as the guys here can help with almost any issue. I was scared spitless of them and with a little searching and reading I found a whole lot about them. Between that and asking questions here I am now confidant in my carb skills. Definitely not a carb guru but my bikes run real good. You should do a plug chop to check out the high speed circuit. Dgxser is right in that popping on deceleration sounds like it is lean.

[bikerphil]

DG, pretty sure he has an XJ, so his oil warning light is for LEVEL, not pressure.

IIRC, the XJ has a factory fork brace.

[SFerinTEXAS]

That light is for oil PRESSURE, not level

Not so

You need to ask less questions until you study the service manual. Not everything on the XJ is the same as the XS but some who don't have one will still chime in in error. No offense to them intended, just fair warning to you.

The Search function is my favorite tool on this site.I have an inquiring mind.

[SFerinTEXAS]

Caveat on the oil sensor. When its working correctly, it does not tell you if oil level is good so much as it tells you when You Have A Seriously Immediate Problem

[DeanR]

I'm guessing that the Tkat fork brace will solve a LOT of what you are feeling regarding handling. I know it did on mine.