What did I get myself into?

[bikerphil]

The tech book says that there is a bleeder screw somewhere on the caliper but I can not find it.

It should be visible as plain as day unless it has been snapped off.

[natemoen]

The bleeder screw should look identical to any car bleeder screw you have seen.

[11Rider]

Hey, we're neighbors. I live in New Egypt and I work in Howell all the time (house painter). We can't be much more than 20 minutes from each other. PM me your number!

[schnurpfeil]

well the caliper housing has one main bolt running through it to hold it to the bike. Then there is a thing that looks like a grease fitting. Besides the pads, shims and guides thats all thats there. They do not look like what is in the tech manuals. So I checked the brakes before I came into work today. I can get a full pull with out it getting tougher to pull the more I pull. I don't think thats right. What cleaner can I use to flush the master cylinder out with? Last night I just tried flushing it with more DOT3. It got a lot of crap out but the small ports may have more junk in them then I thought. At what point should I just pull the entire brake system off and redo everything? Is there special tools I will need to do a proper job of this? I put a level to the 2 front disc rotors and they seem true all the way around.

[Incubus]

That grease fitting is your bleeder screw. There also are two tiny holes in the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir that have to be clear. One is the outlet for the brake fluid, one is the return. If you brake lever builds up pressure when you squeeze it you maybe could get away with not rebuilding the master. Try bleeding the system and see how well it works. You should bleed all of the old fluid out of the system and replace it with fresh fluid. This may allow you to just bleed and use, and it can be a real pain in the butt to bleed the front brakes into a functioning condition if you drain all of the old fluid out and try to refill an empty system.'

Other than that, it's pretty easy.

Patrick

[CatatonicBug]

What cleaner can I use to flush the master cylinder out with? Last night I just tried flushing it with more DOT3. It got a lot of crap out but the small ports may have more junk in them then I thought. At what point should I just pull the entire brake system off and redo everything? Is there special tools I will need to do a proper job of this?

Use a can or 2 of Brake parts cleaner. It should sit really close to the Carb cleaner in the auto parts store (or even Walmart). I is really caustic, so don't get it in your eyes, and avoid getting it on your skin too much (it can sting). IMHO, any time you have enough grime in the brake system to actually SEE it, that is when ou should take the whole system apart and clean it. Remember that the brakes are the MOST IMPORTANT part of the bike, and getting it spotless is vital to your safety. The only "special" tool you might need is a set of snap-ring pliers to get the pistons out of the master cylinders. Be sure to use the master cylinders to pump the pistons out of the calipers before removing them if you can. Otherwise, you can use compressed air to push them out. Be careful with that though, as the pistons shoot out like a cannon!

[Incubus]

I don't know that a fellow who can't find the bleeder screw outta be tearing down a master cylinder, CB. Not yet anyway.

Patrick

[CatatonicBug]

I don't know that a fellow who can't find the bleeder screw outta be tearing down a master cylinder, CB. Not yet anyway.

Patrick

Maybe so, but I wouldn't suggest he ride with brakes in that condition either. IMO, they need to be taken apart by SOMEONE...

[WMarshy]

I don't know that a fellow who can't find the bleeder screw outta be tearing down a master cylinder, CB. Not yet anyway.

Patrick

He found it on the one side, who knows what the previous owner might have done. The PO might have ran a bolt in where the bleeder was for all we know. Besides, the break systems are relatively simple in nature, gotta start learning somewhere. If he really is that mechanically declined, then he should have somone who is inclined double check his work. In either case, I agree with Catatonicbug.

[schnurpfeil]

OK so I now did both front brakes and got a nice tight pull. I went online and watched a "how to" on donig the brakes and that set me up right. You guys were right. It was not that hard to do. I took it around my block and it works nicely now. The piston on the left was the one that was dragging. Next I am going to tackle my rear. That should go much faster. Don't worry guys. Just because I can turn a wrench and read a tech manual does not make me a bike mechanic. With this in mind I am looking for a certified "trustworthy" bike mechanic in my area to look it over before I plan on going anywhere outside of pushing home distance. I think that after the brakes are done. I will go with an oil change, lube and new plugs. Then, the carb issue. The tranny issue my take some time to build up the curage for. The tires will defenitely go to the shop.