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  • Needle valves

    I have seen a few useing needle valves from other year/model as an upgrade. I am going to go through my carbs to make some adj and would like to do that upgrade. What is the best upgrade and where can I get just the needle valves as carb kits are new?
    1979 XS1100 Special (Mad Max, OEM) Current
    1980 XS1100 Special
    1990 V Max
    1982 KZ750 LTD Twin
    1986 700 FZR Yamaha Fazer (faster then expected)
    1979 XS750 Special (my 1st Special)
    1974 CB750-Four



    Past/pres Car's
    1961 Catalina 389/1970 Torino GT 351/1967GTO 12to1 comp./ Roller cam/ T-10/ 456 gear/Tri-power/1967 GTO 400, 1969 Camaro, 1968 Z28, 2001 BMW M Roadster 0 to 60 in 4.5 sec. Jaguar XK8

  • #2
    I've forgotten which year bike you have, in terms of which float needles to use.
    Early ones have the steel needles, later ones the vitron tips needles. I'm not a big fan of switching them around.
    Anyway... I believe "Z1 Enterprises" has the cheapest deal. About $5 per needle, if'in I recall correctly. They come in a package of 5.
    "Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)

    Comment


    • #3
      The XV920 needle/seat is the upgrade for the early type BS34 II carbs. They have the viton tipped needle.

      http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=2560
      2H7 (79) owned since '89
      3H3 owned since '06

      "If it ain't broke, modify it"

      Comment


      • #4
        ok, their site says a pack of 6 goes for $17.20.
        "Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)

        Comment


        • #5
          1979 special

          Originally posted by prometheus578 View Post
          I've forgotten which year bike you have, in terms of which float needles to use.
          Early ones have the steel needles, later ones the vitron tips needles. I'm not a big fan of switching them around.
          Anyway... I believe "Z1 Enterprises" has the cheapest deal. About $5 per needle, if'in I recall correctly. They come in a package of 5.
          It is a 1979 Special, all OEM now, but I heard the steel tips could be upgraded with good results What would work best in my year?
          1979 XS1100 Special (Mad Max, OEM) Current
          1980 XS1100 Special
          1990 V Max
          1982 KZ750 LTD Twin
          1986 700 FZR Yamaha Fazer (faster then expected)
          1979 XS750 Special (my 1st Special)
          1974 CB750-Four



          Past/pres Car's
          1961 Catalina 389/1970 Torino GT 351/1967GTO 12to1 comp./ Roller cam/ T-10/ 456 gear/Tri-power/1967 GTO 400, 1969 Camaro, 1968 Z28, 2001 BMW M Roadster 0 to 60 in 4.5 sec. Jaguar XK8

          Comment


          • #6
            BTW, be aware that the viton tip needles won't fit in the early type seats correctly, they are slightly wider and will bind up. If you want viton tip, you have to switch the seats too, hence the XV920 setup.
            2H7 (79) owned since '89
            3H3 owned since '06

            "If it ain't broke, modify it"

            Comment


            • #7
              I see no reason not to keep it stock.
              Then again, some people like to experiment... nothing wrong with that if they have the time.
              "Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)

              Comment


              • #8
                Orm

                Originally posted by prometheus578 View Post
                I see no reason not to keep it stock.
                Then again, some people like to experiment... nothing wrong with that if they have the time.
                OEM is my 1st name, I just kept reading on here about all these guys changing to better needles and though if it is that big of an gain, why not? I have had some leak past before and dont know if this is a good fix or waste of time
                1979 XS1100 Special (Mad Max, OEM) Current
                1980 XS1100 Special
                1990 V Max
                1982 KZ750 LTD Twin
                1986 700 FZR Yamaha Fazer (faster then expected)
                1979 XS750 Special (my 1st Special)
                1974 CB750-Four



                Past/pres Car's
                1961 Catalina 389/1970 Torino GT 351/1967GTO 12to1 comp./ Roller cam/ T-10/ 456 gear/Tri-power/1967 GTO 400, 1969 Camaro, 1968 Z28, 2001 BMW M Roadster 0 to 60 in 4.5 sec. Jaguar XK8

                Comment


                • #9
                  Well, we looked at this years back. I seem to recall a difference in the needles... one type being taller, too, which obviously would affect the float height/ fuel level.
                  I think it was 81xsproject who did the original data... figuring out the new float height to compensate for the change in fuel level, but I'm not sure. You may want to send him a PM and ask as you'd probably never find the answer doing a search. (Ya got any idea how many threads have the words "Float needles" in them?)

                  New bikes and such still come with steel tipped needles....
                  Vitron tipped ones still get "wear rings" on them after years of use, too....
                  And your old ones have lasted 30 years and maybe 50,000 miles so why change now?
                  "Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hey OEM,

                    Prom is right in that the rubber/viton tipped ones don't last forever. I put in new ones on my 81(stock design) carbs when I did my resurrection in 2000. I just replaced them this last year, so about 8-9 years on them, and they did have indents in the rubber tips, figured they had gotten a bit hard and I did have a leak. However, while I was in there, I re-repaired my broken float post problem that was a bit more of a contributing factor to my occasional leak.

                    Prom.....you must be getting tired...you didn't mention about your POLISHING technique for the metal tipped ones to help get them nice and smooth!? I think I remember it having something to do with chrome polish on a Q-tip for the seats, and I think may 1000 grit for the float needle tip??

                    T.C.
                    T. C. Gresham
                    81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
                    79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
                    History shows again and again,
                    How nature points out the folly of men!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Well... If'in ya put in new needles and it still leaks (even if'in it don't leak), Simichrome on a Q tip is great for polishing up the seat.
                      (I've tried other polishes and they just didn't do the job)



                      Usually sold at bike shops, but sadly, that tube costs about $12.

                      Never tried 1000 grit sandpaper on needles. Don't know if'in it'd be fine enough. I mean... you're tryin' to get a gasoline-proof seal between the needle and the seat... it's just metal to metal contact there. Gasoline is very thin and ya gots to have really smooth surfaces.

                      Now, once out of despairation, I did manage to smooth out a very slight wear-ring on some needle tips with Simichrome, but it took a hell of a long time. Cheaper in the long run just to buy spare needles and carry them in yer tool kit.
                      "Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Ok

                        Originally posted by prometheus578 View Post
                        Well... If'in ya put in new needles and it still leaks (even if'in it don't leak), Simichrome on a Q tip is great for polishing up the seat.
                        (I've tried other polishes and they just didn't do the job)



                        Usually sold at bike shops, but sadly, that tube costs about $12.

                        Never tried 1000 grit sandpaper on needles. Don't know if'in it'd be fine enough. I mean... you're tryin' to get a gasoline-proof seal between the needle and the seat... it's just metal to metal contact there. Gasoline is very thin and ya gots to have really smooth surfaces.

                        Now, once out of despairation, I did manage to smooth out a very slight wear-ring on some needle tips with Simichrome, but it took a hell of a long time. Cheaper in the long run just to buy spare needles and carry them in yer tool kit.
                        OK, my needles and seats are new, how be it, metal. I just had a over fill for the first time and am going to go through carbs to adj some things and was thinking there might be an upgrade, many have said you dont need the octy with some needles, I am keeping the octy but thought the better vavles might be worth an install at this time as a precaution and improvment over stock metal vavles? I guess it is not worth my time? Is that right
                        1979 XS1100 Special (Mad Max, OEM) Current
                        1980 XS1100 Special
                        1990 V Max
                        1982 KZ750 LTD Twin
                        1986 700 FZR Yamaha Fazer (faster then expected)
                        1979 XS750 Special (my 1st Special)
                        1974 CB750-Four



                        Past/pres Car's
                        1961 Catalina 389/1970 Torino GT 351/1967GTO 12to1 comp./ Roller cam/ T-10/ 456 gear/Tri-power/1967 GTO 400, 1969 Camaro, 1968 Z28, 2001 BMW M Roadster 0 to 60 in 4.5 sec. Jaguar XK8

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          How valuable is your time?

                          Me...? It wouldn't be worth my time.
                          "Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Hi Prom
                            What happened ... somebody kick your rock?

                            originally posted by TC
                            Prom.....you must be getting tired...you didn't mention about your POLISHING technique for the metal tipped ones to help get them nice and smooth!?
                            I took your advice years ago, sorta.
                            I was in the shop just finishing up some work to an old ford 1.3 industrial engine when the carb started leaking. Yup, old worn float needle with ring around the seat syndrome.
                            No Q-tips in the shop… So I tried putting the polish between the needle and seat and spinning it with a tube (WD40 or carb cleaner tube) sorta like lapping a valve which a needle and seat just happen to be.
                            Did the same to a SF this year.
                            Works for me.

                            mro

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              What I would consider worth the time is to install some inline fuel filters if you don't have any. The fine particles of rust and stuff from the gastank can get past the intank filters, and the inlines provide another layer of defense, so those little particles don't get into your carbs...wedge between your NEW floats and seats and cause them to leak when they shouldn't otherwise!

                              T.C.

                              PS, Prom, at least my CRS isn't that bad...I had the chrome polish right!
                              T. C. Gresham
                              81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
                              79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
                              History shows again and again,
                              How nature points out the folly of men!

                              Comment

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