Shifting into 4th a little rough

[11Rider]

Hi guys, I did some searching here and found that the shift into 4th gear can be a little problematic. It's hard to describe, but mine feels and sounds like something is hitting something a few times before actually getting into 4th gear. It's much less noticeable at lower revs and seems that the higher you wind it out before shifting the worse it is. I find myself consciously shifting more deliberately and more firmly going into 4th. Mine only has about 7500 miles on it. Is this somewhat characteristic? If so why??

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

4th

I have noticed that going into 4th feels different then the other shifts, almost like it goes through neutral to get to 4th. I do kick it a little harder knowing that. I know this will start a war, but I added about 6oz of Lucas last change and all the gears shift better IMHO. Is your clutch releasing all the way or does it "clunk" hard from neutral to 1st when sitting still.

[WMarshy]

The klunk from nutral to first is very typical for these bikes and is nothing to be concerned with. Slowing the idle down will help that some. There is definitely a false nutral between 3rd and 4th gear, I know b/c I've hit it more than once, and it does matter how hard your pushing the bike. There's not much you can do to avoid it that I know of other than drive it easier and use the clutch between those gears. Preloading the shifted doesn't seem to make much of a difference...

[TopCatGr58]

Hey 11rider,

There is a false neutral between 4-5 as this tech tip shows/explains.
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=154

There is also an alignment adjustment that can be checked, but requires removal of the shifter cover, and placement into 2nd gear position. Then check for the alignment notches of the shift pawl and drum, they should be together. The below poor quality photo ( I need to make a better one) shows the pawl, and drum, but they are NOT in alignment check position, they are in 4th gear position, but you can see the alignment notches in the drum at 12 o'clock, and the pawl lever arm at ~4 o'clock, next to the case screw hole. Adjustments to the pawl position can be made if found to be out of alignment. This CAN help make the shifting more positive/sure!


Aside from that, if found in proper position, then you can also change the position of the shift foot lever, moving/roatating it downward a spline or so, so that you get better leverage on it for the upshifts!

Surprised you say it's tougher to do in the high rpms, but perhaps you aren't "blipping" the throttle....letting off just slightly while performing the shift action....that releases stress on the gears, and will allow them to mesh easier/quicker/smoother. Many folks do it without even using the clutch, but most still recommend the clutch for smoother transition. As stated earlier, would also check your clutch adjustment at the engine.... to make sure it Is releasing fully when you pull the lever!

The shift into 1st when stopped can be HARSH, even after pulling in the clutch lever, and waiting a few seconds for the gears to slow their spinning before you slam them together to a stop! This is why downshifting into 1st when you're coming to a stop can reduce this, vs sitting there in neutral, and then all of a sudden shifting when the light changes! Also, if you're already in gear, easier/quicker/safer to be able to get out of the way if needed!
T.C.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

klunk HARD

The klunk from nutral to first is very typical for these bikes and is nothing to be concerned with. Slowing the idle down will help that some. There is definitely a false nutral between 3rd and 4th gear, I know b/c I've hit it more than once, and it does matter how hard your pushing the bike. There's not much you can do to avoid it that I know of other than drive it easier and use the clutch between those gears. Preloading the shifted doesn't seem to make much of a difference...

I said "klunk HARD", we all know they shift like a russian tracktor, but when my clutch needs adj, the first thing I notice is a "hard" klunk when shifting to 1st when sitting at a light. Don't know how yours works, just my experience and just trying to help

[Rasputin]

I said "klunk HARD", we all know they shift like a russian tracktor, but when my clutch needs adj, the first thing I notice is a "hard" klunk when shifting to 1st when sitting at a light. Don't know how yours works, just my experience and just trying to help

Yup same for me...if the Klunk is too hard or there is any grinding sound I immediately check my clutch adjustment.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey OEM,

Nobody was faulting your information, which is correct, just trying to add more information about how to possibly REDUCE the KLUNK affect that IS part of the XS11 and shifting into 1st from neutral. Some folks will even shut their bike off first after it's been warmed up, shift into 1st, and then restart it... a bit extreme if you ask me.
T.C.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

T c

Hey OEM,

Nobody was faulting your information, which is correct, just trying to add more information about how to possibly REDUCE the KLUNK affect that IS part of the XS11 and shifting into 1st from neutral. Some folks will even shut their bike off first after it's been warmed up, shift into 1st, and then restart it... a bit extreme if you ask me.
T.C.

Thanks T C, will check that out sometime soon. Mine klunks some going into 1st, like most I guess, but if my idle is right and clutch is adj right, I just give is a firm kick and off I go

[11Rider]

Once again, GREAT info. I have what I consider a "hard clunk" going into first - at least compared to my other bikes. I believe the clutch is adjusted properly because there's quiet a bit of lever travel when letting it out before the clutch even starts to engage. Considering the low mileage and overall very nice condition of my bike, along with knowledge that others have similar experiences, I'll just consider it to be "the nature of the beast" Oh, PS, I'll look into that pawl adjustment too just to be sure.