'79 Special Weed Abatement Project In Progress

[crazy steve]

Scott, there may be one other issue with using a hardener with some paint; bonding of the various coats. Now, you didn't use a urethane, but you did use the same type hardener, and one of the things all the manufacturers (and how-to articles I've seen) stress is you have to apply each coat of paint before the previous coat fully cures. All the numbers I've seen is a 16 hour max, less is better, and preferably within 60 minutes (15 minutes is enough 'drying time' for applying another coat usually). If you wait too long, the paint cures too much and any coats applied don't bond to the lower coats. The hardeners require a chemical bond, and once the paint cures beyond a certain point, you won't get that bond. At that point, you're supposed to re-sand with some fairly coarse paper (220, 320 at the finest) to give a 'toothed' surface (for a mechanical bond) for the paint to stick to and shoot another coat of primer to apply the color coat to (without sanding the primer).

Basically, you apply all the paint, then sand it. It's OK to sand intermediate coats, but only if you do it within that 'cure window' before putting another coat on. 'They' say this is a leading cause of clear-coat failure, applying the base coat then waiting too long before putting the clear on, but point out that the same problems can appear in the base coat or single-stage paint if that 'bond' isn't made. This can be a PITA, as you have to do all the painting to say inside that 'window' so once you start, you have to see it through until all the paint is on. No stopping in the middle....

The other thing all the 'pro how-tos' mention is staying with a single manufacturer for your paint, at least in the color coat/top coat paint. Mixing brands among your paint, reducers, and hardeners isn't recommended.

[3Phase]

Thanks for the heads up, Steve!

This morning I mounted the rubber grommet, low-fuel bracket, fuel taps, filler cap, badges, and the black plastic trim strip for the front edge of the tank, then put the tank on the bike. It's just waiting for the side covers but it looks good. Shiny!

I had to do a lot of reading and research before I dove into rolling paint on a gas tank. So far I haven't had any problem with the paint not sticking but it's still way too early to tell if it's going to blister and peel after six months in the sun. The hardener I used is specified for brushing or rolling NAPA's Crossfire single-stage alkyd or vinyl resin paints. It should work with Rustoleum's alkyd paint and I sanded after every coat instead of cheating and rolling two coats, then sanding. I really hope it sticks and doesn't turn yellow or discolor!

When I was wet-sanding I noticed something but I don't really know what to call it. The paint forms a very thin and slightly off-color 'skin' as it dries and cures. I tried taking a picture but the shading is too subtle and all the white just overwhelmed the camera. It's not really noticeable until you start to sand, then you can clearly see the difference. The 'skin' is hard and glossy but very, very, slightly brownish-grey and the paint underneath it is whiter. I used the different shades as a guide to sand off the surface 'skin' and that took care of the orange peel, dust and hairs in the paint.

When I was finally ready to roll the last coat I removed tape from the holes for the fuel taps and the low-fuel thermistor bracket by cutting around the outer edge of the tape with a razor blade down to the primer so the paint wouldn't peel back with the tape, then blended and leveled the edges.

[3Phase]

I sprayed some rattle can paint on the side covers and it crinkled in a few spots and it didn't stick to the primer. That could have been bad but it actually turned out to be a blessing in disguise. I had the parts out in the sun this morning and the Rustoleum Gloss White rattle can paint is a whiter shade of pale than the Gloss White in the quart can.

The side covers didn't match the tank so they got stripped and re-primed this afternoon and I just finished putting on their first coat of white paint with hardener.


I also got the bike fired up this afternoon! Yay!

It sat too long. Boo!

The engine started right up but only ran on two cylinders and it looked like I was fogging for mosquitoes again. The valve stem seals will have to be replaced and #3 and #4 cylinders are cold. #4 picked up a little bit after the engine started to warm up but #3 stayed cold. I bypassed the octy to run the fuel straight to the carburetors and I swapped a few spark plugs/wires around but it didn't help.

It's most likely 'stuff' in the carbs so I'll pull the rack and dig deeper tomorrow while the next coat of paint for the side covers is drying. I also ordered a new set of ME880 tires and they should be here Monday or Tuesday so I can ditch the ten-year-old bowling balls that came with the bike.

[3Phase]

Stripped, stripped, and more stripped

The side covers after the fourth coat of white paint has been rolled on. The primer is almost covered and the paint is straight with no ripples.




The engine is out of the frame. The frame will be welded and the center stand mounts put back on, then cleaned and painted.

To pull the engine with no center stand is a little tricky. I slowly and carefully took off all of the parts with the frame resting on jack stands, then lowered it to the ground. Once it was on the ground I just laid down on the frame, then picked up the engine by the left-hand engine cover and the transmission and lifted it out of the frame to the right.

The two new ME880 tires on the right will be put on after I remove the ten-year-old tires that were on the bike and clean the rims.





Now I know why this bike was parked ten years ago. The drive shaft is bad. There is no grease and the splines on the shaft and the final drive input pinion coupler are stripped.

The u-joint on the other end of the drive shaft is not shown but the u-joint is also shot. The u-joint partially seized and threw fine rust powder all over everything inside of its rubber cover.

The u-joint will be replaced and the bad final drive and and drive shaft will be swapped out for an XS850 final drive conversion.




It's my lucky day! Here's the frame with the new set of saddle bags that arrived just before I pulled the engine.




Right-hand center stand mounting bracket was ripped out of the frame and will have to be repaired.




Left-hand center stand mounting bracket was ripped out of the frame and will have to be repaired.




I definitely have my work cut out for me this weekend but this is the last of the repairs, cleaning, and painting. Tomorrow I'll pull the oil pan off the engine while it's out of the frame. If everything looks good then I'll go a little further and change the valve seals.

[DGXSER]

Nice work Scott! You probably already have a plan in mind, but I would definitly address the gears while your tearing it down that far. Seen to many put all back together assuming the gears are good only to find they need to pull the tranny apart to fix them.

[3Phase]

Thanks, Don!

Yes, I'm going to check the gears, clutch, chains, chain guides, bearings, oil galleries, and all that other good stuff that can be checked while the engine is out. I might even do it right and split the cases to check the mains and rods while I'm at it so I don't zip it up back and throw a rod or something.

The bike has only been ridden about fifty or sixty miles since I first put fresh oil in it and got it running but the oil was really black when I drained it. There was a thin black layer of really fine carbon or dirt in the oil filter cup too but I didn't see any metal flakes or sparkles anywhere.

Hopefully the black stuff is just leftover crud from sitting for so long and it'll all be good to go with fresh oil and new valve seals. If it's not then I'll have to skip the "Dream Machines" event up in Half Moon Bay this year and shoot for the Cali Rally this summer.

[BillyRok]

I've been reading this thread with great interest, especially since I'm tearing mine down. I get to the part where you have no center stand are are going to pull the engine and I think, "Cool, this is really going to help me" as I am in the same boat and not really sure how to proceed. So now I read this--

"To pull the engine with no center stand is a little tricky. I slowly and carefully took off all of the parts with the frame resting on jack stands, then lowered it to the ground. Once it was on the ground I just laid down on the frame, then picked up the engine by the left-hand engine cover and the transmission and lifted it out of the frame to the right."

Are you saying that you laid your torso on the bike's frame, grabbed the engine on both sides, and lifted it out the right hand side of the frame?!? Either I'm totally misunderstanding your process or you, fine sir, are a beast!

I weigh a buck sixty, soaking wet, so I could really use some clear direction about how to pull the motor...but I also don't want to high jack your thread, it's a good one. I love reading and watching you guys who really know what you're doing.

[petejw]

I weigh a buck sixty, soaking wet, so I could really use some clear direction about how to pull the motor...but I also don't want to high jack your thread, it's a good one. I love reading and watching you guys who really know what you're doing.

hi billy,
depends on what ur trying to achieve, are u pulling the engine
to rebuild it or to clean up the frame, if ur pulling the engne to rebuild
it, its much easier to pull the head and cylinders while the engine is
still in the frame, ull also want to remove the mid drive and starter motor,
and the oil filter housing, be sure to drain both engine and mid drive oils.
if u pull the head and cylinders the engine should be lite enuff for u
to remove by urself, if not 2 ppl makes for engine removal much easier.

[3Phase]

Yes, I just lifted the engine. It's really not that difficult but, no, it didn't come out all in one go.

After you remove the wheels, swing arm, and front forks, the engine with the frame rests on the engine oil pan. The pan sticks down about three or four inches below the frame so when you remove the engine mounting bolts the frame drops down a couple of inches lower to the ground and rests in the center and side stand tabs. The engine stays resting on the oil pan and that gives a little head start.

It took four lifts to get the engine out and I had to use the frame as a brace because my back is shot. I can't just squat over the frame and dead-lift the engine by sticking my thumbs in the spark plug holes and popping it out like pulling the tab on beer can unless I want to wind up with no thumbs and unable to move for a few days.

The first and only difficult lift is the one to get the engine up and clear of the mount tabs on the frame, then turn it about forty-five degrees. To do that I lifted the engine straight up by the end covers because that's where most of the weight is, then turned it and let it rest on the frame.

A couple of short lifts to the right while holding the engine by the end covers or the right-hand transmission mount as necessary gets the whole thing up and over the frame and on the floor. There is no drama unless you let your fingers get in the way.

"Assembly is reverse of disassembly...."

[latexeses]

Scott,
You should do a search for the nearest source of cold beer and asprin!
Good luck brother. Take care ol' L5 S1...

[3Phase]

Not a bad plan there, Rodger, and that's what I did, minus the beer. I only felt like painting the side covers until yesterday when I finally felt good enough to put the frame in the car and take it to the welder's; don't know when it'll be finished; don't care right now; need more aspirin.

[latexeses]

Take it from someone who has been there.

It will take alot longer and alot harder to get a back surgery rehabed than rehab the "Bush"....

All asprin aside....

[3Phase]

The last lift to the right to get the engine clear of the frame pulled me off center a little too far. Ouch.

It's funny you should mention surgery: after the wreck back in '94 tore up my friend and I we got in line at the pharmacy to get some meds after talking to the doctors. We were discussing their recommended back/neck surgeries, therapies, and the alternatives when the misshapen hunchbacked woman ahead of us in line tucked a gigantic bottle of painkillers she'd just purchased into her purse, then slowly swiveled around on her cane and peered up at us as she said, "No! Don't let them cut up your back!" while she tried to gesture toward her own back.

Trust me, aspirin works just fine and it'll be a cold day in Columbia before I let anyone cut up my back....

[crazy steve]

....Trust me, aspirin works just fine and it'll be a cold day in Columbia before I let anyone cut up my back....

While I won't particularly recommend back surgery, if it gets bad enough you'll beg them to do it...

Without mine, I'd be in a wheelchair today, if I hadn't commited suicide because of the pain...

[latexeses]

if it gets bad enough you'll beg them to do it...

YOU"VE GOT THAT RIGHT!
When I had the ruptured disc it was constant PAIN. Whenever I moved it was like a flashbulb going off in my eyes and a shot of pain I never want to feel again. No amount of anything they gave me killed the pain.
After the operation the DR. said the sciatic nerve was as pinched as flat as a piece of paper.

I would have had the surgery the day after I got hurt if I knew how much better I was going to feel.
Get a good surgeon!
THAT IS NO JOKE.