Check you middle and final drive.

[CatatonicBug]

Hey Smash. I am in Arvada. You don't necessarily have to make a dipstick out of plastic. You can make a set out of coat hanger bent like doorknob keys. You just have to etch the low and high marks and inbetween to see the oil. Of course you could invest in the real McCoy for about $6.00.

The REALLY cheap route (like what Smash used) is to print them on paper and make single-use ones. They are available on this site somewhere, and it's one of the things I host on my site (linked below).

[skids]

Hey Smash. I am in Arvada. You don't necessarily have to make a dipstick out of plastic. You can make a set out of coat hanger bent like doorknob keys. You just have to etch the low and high marks and inbetween to see the oil. Of course you could invest in the real McCoy for about $6.00.

[Smash]

I love the search function....

Working on the XJ today. Karla (my girlfriend, and owner of the bike) is buttoning up the carb we rebuilt, while she's doing that I was going through the middle and final drive oil. "Use the dipstick in the tool kit...." Uh... no tool kit. Printed some out. Thanks everyone!

[saddle up]

Thanks for the input Folks,

much appreciated...

[DGXSER]

ok, and yes the wheel spline and cover are the same. But the standard model uses a separate spacer from the bearing cover and it is placed in a different order of installation with the rest of the components. So it most likely just changes the location of the rear brake caliper to the disc.

Anyway, if you did not change it then it was not the source of the problem. I'll just go back to my corner and puzzle it some more.

[saddle up]

Dgxser

No, I didn't change wheel sizes. but the wheel spine and dust cover are the same.,,

[DGXSER]

There are several threads recently regarding swapping a 16" and 17" wheel. There is a difference in the spacer required and the brackst that holds the rear caliper in place between the two setups. It is entirely possible that you perhaps did not swap those items out and simply put the other wheel on.

If that is the case, then it is also possible there was an issue with the engagement of the splines allowing them to slide and only partly engage causing the wear.

[natemoen]

At one time I was considering changing to a 17.

Would be a great time to switch since you got everything apart If you still want to switch that is

[saddle up]

Is there an award for overlooking the simple things?

Well Folks, I have it figured out. I can't believe how stupid I am. It's is something called expecting the worst, hoping for the best.

After tearing half the bike apart and getting ready to dig into the engine, I remembered that I had a 17" wheel in the garage. I had to fight off cobwebs and make a path. Now mine is a 16".. At one time I was considering changing to a 17. So I get the wheel's and compare them side by side. The difference in what is wrong is in plain sight.

On the wheel I took off my bike, there are four screws holding the dust cover or the shield. On the spare there where 7, i.e., none missing.

On the wheel I took off the bike the clutch hub (cylmers) or the coupling flange (haynes), I'll just call it the wheel splines had a difference of 3'16 or 6mm. Unbelievable.

So I am wonder if I had a little help with the 3 screws falling off and getting caught between the wheel spines and the Splines of the final drive. It don't look like the screws could get in there

Hopefully the spline of the final drive is harder than the spine on the wheel. 3/16" is a bunch.
So after I repack the bearing in the swingarm and the wheel it will be all systems go. I hope will keep on posting until she's on the road again...

[planedick]

Going back

Your first post said that you could feel the middle drive behind the boot and while turning the rear wheel the part under the boot didn't move. The only thing left is the splines in the universal and on the drive shaft, or those in the final drive and on the drive shaft. Look at those close, especially those on the final drive end. We have learned that each time you put on a new rear tire, it is necessary to take the final drive off and grease those splines or they will wear off.

[DGXSER]

I would suggest doing just that, clean it up, put it together and see what you get. But take it slow on the driveway like Rainman for a bit. Hate to read it locked up on you at highway speeds.

[saddle up]

Surprise, surprise

Welllll,,,,,,,,,,
I took out the middle drive. Same as the rear drive, no chips, or noticeable mental debris, all the teeth look good, albeit not as pristine as the rear drive.

The same with the gear oil, It was a little more darker in color, and a little thinner, and the magnetic drain plug had some fuzz on it. The level was lower than the stick. But not by much. The gear oil didn't smell burnt.

I did not completely disassemble either the final or middle drive as everything is looking good and tight concerning lateral play and lash.

Sooo, does anybody have any Idea what could be wrong?? I almost feel like cleaning everything up, put her together and put in new fluids, but I think I will probably have to tear her down anyhow.

[saddle up]

Well,, I'm getting this sick feeling,,

I took off the plate on the rear end. EVERYthing looks cherry. No chips, no water, no metal slivers, no nothing.

Everything is tight, no sloop anywhere.. it looks brand new. Even the gear oil looks brand new... every gear turns, nice and easy.

So, it's off to the middle drive....

[Poprock]

Simple fix: replace final drive. 850 FD will give you pleasant highway driving. I have a stock FD off my SG. PM me. I'm close.

[DGXSER]

Just my opinion, but if you have isolated down to the sotck rear final drive. There are plenty out there available. Ray has one, I have one, plenty of others who switched to the 750/850 have them also.

If you take it apart, you really should measure clrearances before reassembly. The shaft drive manual is availabel on line in PDF format for free download. Just google XS1100 + "shaft drive" + manual and you should find it.