No big deal
I've had mine apart before. Just be sure you put it back together with the same gaskets and spacers that was in it, assuming that the bearings are OK. You should be able to turn the input and see the output go 'round. It should turn very easy.
Check you middle and final drive.
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If you want a "stock" final drive, I have a know good one. Send me a PM and we can talk. I would also look close at the driveshaft splines and the final drive input for the driveshaft. If it had NOT been greased, you WILL need to replace both of them.Leave a comment:
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So Planedick,
Are you saying that I got to break that final drive apart, or just get another final drive without farting around for the next day or so??
What you said make since.. when I turn the back wheel, with or without the tranny in gear, I can hear some noise inside the rear drive,,,, so I guess that I answered my own question.. I'll take it apart.. Something has to show somewhere...
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Well,,
Before, I go any further, I checked the gear oil in the middle drive, it looks good, smells normal and was just a 1\16 or so below the stick, so I am probably 2-4 oz's shy.
I started the motor up no problem, went thru the gears, no problem, tried to stop the flange outside the middle drive with and with out the motor on.. couldn't stop the flange from turning.
On the rear drive, everything appear's to be the norm.. All teeth on the end of the drive shaft and the teeth outside of the rear drive appear to be intact, i.e., no chips, and everything smooth to touch. There is a small amount of debris on the inside of the rear drive,some tiny shavings with some dust...maybe a pinch full..
I'm thinking that maybe the teeth in the rear drive might have just plain worn out..
I was looking at the manuals and am scratching my head right now, as you know not much in there... I was going to take the middle drive out. The books say there are seven hex bolts attaching the drive to the block.. I can see only six.. so one must be buried in my 80 SG, or some of the posts that stated you don't have to remove the engine to take off the Middle drive???
Any ideas on this??Leave a comment:
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Up date....
Well I got the drive shaft loosened from the middle drive.. I guess I have been burning both sites up with my problem(s). Removed the swing arm. Grease galore on everything so far.. Everything appears to be good so far. With the swing arm off, I have put the tranny in gear, rock solid.. So far nothing make's since....
I'll post later, If I stay on here longer, I'll never get anything else done AND I'll have to make a trip to get more beer.. lol
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BEAT ON THE WRENCH!! It's the ONLY way you can break the bolts loose. It will NOT put much shock on the tranny. I would put the bike in second or third gear, though. It will help keep the crank from moving.I don't want to put any shock on the tranny, by beating on a wrench with a hammer....
Also, use a 6 point 12mm BOX END to loosen the bolts. A 12 point may strip the head on the bolt, and the open end WILL strip the head.
As for wet riding, make sure the vent tube from the middle drive is routed up under the fuel tank. That is the factory set up, and if it's router down under the bike, it WILL suck water into the middle drive!
DAMHIKIJK
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Of course I just found this...
Nope, can't get that puppy out without removing the rear wheel and the final drive. But what you can do is pull back the boot at the middle drive and pull the four bolts connecting the u-joint to the middle drive. This will allow the driveshaft to spin so you can move the bike...
This will also quickly indicate if it is the engine/trans that's seized or if it's the final drive.
'78E original owner
Only problem is my rear wheel turns, no matter what gear, etc...Leave a comment:
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Up date. I checked the gear oil in rear end it was full and clean. I did all the things that you have to do, i.e. wheel, brake.. removed the rear drive.
I'm at the point now of separating the middle drive from the drive shaft. What a pita. I have the transmission in first gear. That puts up resistance, but not enough to loosen the 12mm bolts.
So, It appears that I should have loosened the drive shaft bolts with the bike on the kick stand, first be fore anything.... It don't say that in the book(s) Clymers and Haynes.. And I thought about doing that, believe it or not.
I did scour the search before I started this.. I spent about 4 or 5 hours reading, but it is easy getting sidetracked when you read about everyone else's problem's along the way..
So any ideas out there? I don't want to put any shock on the tranny, by beating on a wrench with a hammer....Leave a comment:
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Water
1st, get up with DiverRay, he has had the water in the drive train prob. due to wet riding and can help you on that. Next, just IMHO, but the reg. maint. time and $ will save you big time and $ in the future, takes 5 min. to check all fluids, takes you lots of time and $ to fix if you don'tDGXSER,
That is going to be the first thing I do tomorrow.
One question though? I had had it in the center stand with the motor running and can shift gears up and down and still hit neutral. Of course, I ain't sticking my hand down there..
And about the water getting in to drives, I'll be looking for any evidence. (If you ride year around up here you are going to get wet)
I'll keep posting as I go along.
One other thing, It is easy to get sloppy with the maintenance. This is my second XS. They are reliable and you get cozy with that fact.
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DGXSER,
That is going to be the first thing I do tomorrow.
One question though? I had had it in the center stand with the motor running and can shift gears up and down and still hit neutral. Of course, I ain't sticking my hand down there..
And about the water getting in to drives, I'll be looking for any evidence. (If you ride year around up here you are going to get wet)
I'll keep posting as I go along.
One other thing, It is easy to get sloppy with the maintenance. This is my second XS. They are reliable and you get cozy with that fact.Leave a comment:
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I know I have seen a template on here to make a little dipstick to check the level but cant find it. How high up is it supposed to be in the middle drive?Leave a comment:
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I have both middle and final drive in good condition available.
If the rear wheel will turn (on centerstand I assume) and the drive shaft is not turning, then the issue is in the final drive.
If the bike is in neutral, then the countershaft is still connected to the middle drive by the end or middle driven gear. The middle drive is a direct gear couples path to the drive shaft as long as the bolts are in at the u-joint. The drive shaft is direct connected to the wheel via the final drive.
I'd pull the final drive off and check it out first.Leave a comment:
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