Advice on

[petejw]

Valve lapping should never be done with a drill press,
the valve shouldnt be rotated through complete revolutions
otherwise rings can be formed on the face of the valve.

the valve should be rotated back and forth a cpl of degrees
on its seat with light pressure, the valve needs to be raised
frequently and turned to a new position on its seat.

You should then see a continuous but narrow lapping mark
both on the seat and face.


hope this helps...

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Drill press?

Valve lapping should never be done with a drill press,
the valve shouldnt be rotated through complete revolutions
otherwise rings can be formed on the face of the valve.

the valve should be rotated back and forth a cpl of degrees
on its seat with light pressure, the valve needs to be raised
frequently and turned to a new position on its seat.

You should then see a continuous but narrow lapping mark
both on the seat and face.


hope this helps...

Didn't see anyone on here mention a "drill press" for lapping? Low speed reversabule drill is what I use. Used for 30+ years now including on my 66 goat I drove to high school then to National Trail race way Columbus Ohio, where I took the beer cooler out of the trunk, turned 10.8 QTR mile, then drove home Yes, it takes some skill to lap with a drill, sorry some don't know how too, It is easy for me to to get the right cross grove with a slow spin, low pressure back and forth motion, same thing you do with a hand lapping tool, just takes some skill and a good eye.

[Toolmaker Tim]

Valve Compressor

The J C Whitney tool looks just like the Sears Craftsman I used. A small word of warning, watch the small spring loaded catch on the ratchet mechanism. It is easy to bend if you are careless about where it is when you use the tool. If it gets bent and doesn't fully engage it will release without warning and things will fly far and fast. Don't ask me how I know that.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Good point

Good point, not recomending JCW or Sears tools (no law suits plaese) just found a pic that looked like the pro tool I have used for years (mine did cost more the $30, could be much stronger) And to the valve lapping thing, just do what you are comfertabule with, my way has worked for me and many of my racing friends, not looking for a fight, or to show who know best, just trying to help if i can

[petejw]

personally i find it takes more skill to
hold a suction cup on a valve and lap by hand than
it would to stick a valve in a reversable drill and do it
that way,
but each to there own.

[prometheus578]

valve spring compresser

This is the type that you need.

Has the attachment to reach the spring, which set down in a 'well'.
That's what the PVC pipe section was for.

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0247/


That $113 price is crazy. Got mine from a different place for $39 bucks. Just can't remember right now . Shall think on it for a few.

[prometheus578]

From a thread back in '05....

Interesting Prices
Figured I'd pick up a cam chain breaker/riveter.
Bike Bandit: $88.82
K+L Supply: $62.50 (Dealer price)
PartsNmore: $50.00
Mike's XS : $39.00(What.. are these used tools? Why so cheap?)
How's about a valve spring compresser?
K+L Supply: $112.00
Mike's XS: $37.00
Now I've never dealt with Mike's before(Other than ordering last night) Am I missing something, here?

Mike's XS now lists it for $32.
Ordered it and it arrived four days later.
Ease of use beats using the PVC pipe section.

[petejw]

heres a pic of mine,
an old spark plug socket welded onto
a 'g' clamp, works great and cost nothing.