Advice on

[vcgodinich]

I have a 79 XS1100 that I am fixing up. It was running and all, but leaking oil out of the head gasket area. I pulled the head today and was wondering what all I should replace in terms of gaskets.
Obviously the head gasket, and the valve cover gasket, but what about the valve stems? Do they have seals? What else should I look for / to do on the head?
There was a great deal of oil in the cylinders on top of the pistons, what's the deal here? Could this be valve stem leaking or crank case ventilation through the carbs?
There seemed to be a normal amount of carbon on the top of the pistons, but i will clean all that up. If you want pictures, I can provide.

About getting a gasket, i have read that the sets are probably a better bet, but what should I look for? Something like this?

Thanks for the help, i know this is vague, but i am just looking for direction here. I suppose it would be appropriate to say that I am a college student, so I am not made of money, but am willing to get it running correctly.

-Vince

[TopCatGr58]

Or you could get this one from www.partsnmore.com

YAMAHA XS1100 (78-81) GASKET SET
Fits: Yamaha XS1100 (78-81), XS1100L (80-81) Midnight Special, and XS1100S (79-80) Eleven Special.
39 piece, Top and Bottom End Engine Gasket Set. Includes valve seals and all O- rings.
High quality. Made by European OEM supplier.
This is the Most Complete Gasket Set Available from the Aftermarket.


$77.00US /Set

Part#18-0160

But, Vince, we wish you would have asked around here before you tore your engine apart!? These things rarely leak oil from the head gasket area. Most of the time, it's from the cam chain tensioner housing/end plug, or from the valve cover and gasket, with the wind blowing it all over the place, up and thru the vents in the head, and even down the back side!!!

Secondly, the bike is new to you, and the other most common problem they have is leaky carbs due to crud in the metal to metal float valves/seats, as well as the brass floats getting pinholes, etc.!!! Then fuel gets into the engine by overflowing the carbs, then thru the intake boots, and past an open valve, and down into the cylinder, then past the rings and into the oil, where it thins it out, causes bearings to fail, etc.!!!!

The valve seals are under the springs, you'll need to remove the shim buckets and get or make a valve spring compressor tool to get the springs/keepers off, then the valves out, and then the seals. Recommend you at least lap the valves/seats while you have them out.

Find Catatonic Bug's profile, there you can download several manuals to help you along! Congrats on the find, just take some time to read around here a bit before jumping into the engine, lest you cause unwanted damage by doing something out of step, etc.!!

T.C.

[vcgodinich]

Well, it is entirely possible that it was back flowing from the carbs, i have already redone them, two of the floats were sinking alright, and the rest were gunky.

The bike was sitting for a decade before i got it, and i really wanted to get a look inside to make sure the cylinders weren't rusted or anything, plus just to see how a motorcycle is put together.

Either way, the valve thing sounds. . . hard? I guess I should go ahead and do it if i am getting them anyway in the set right?

Can you point me to a guide on laping the valves? I can't seem to find one, maybe I don't know what I am looking for here.

Thanks

-Vince

[SFerinTEXAS]

it is entirely possible that it was back flowing from the carbs

What does that mean?

[SFerinTEXAS]

Sorry if that was too sharp. You have gone to far to fast. DAMHIK . Good Luck.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Valve lap

Well, it is entirely possible that it was back flowing from the carbs, i have already redone them, two of the floats were sinking alright, and the rest were gunky.

The bike was sitting for a decade before i got it, and i really wanted to get a look inside to make sure the cylinders weren't rusted or anything, plus just to see how a motorcycle is put together.

Either way, the valve thing sounds. . . hard? I guess I should go ahead and do it if i am getting them anyway in the set right?

Can you point me to a guide on laping the valves? I can't seem to find one, maybe I don't know what I am looking for here.

Thanks

-Vince

For your valve lap, first de-burr the top of the valve stem "before removing valve" Next, get a valve lapping compound, any bike or auto store. Then re- install each valve in the same port, then add compound to valve and seat, the hook valve stem to a "slow" speed drill. Pull back on drill adding "some" pressure and let the compound do the work. Clean all patrs before re-assembly, check all springs for spec. and new keepers would be smart!

[DGXSER]

You will probably want to clean the valve stems up of carbon build up. If you have access to a drill press, put the valve in the drill press at slow speed. Use a hacksaw blade turned teeth backwards and it will take the crap off the valve stem nicely.

Do replace the seals, pulling the valves is not that tough. Especailly if you already have the head off. Do a search for valve removal tool and you should find a PVC pipe tool more than a few have used to remove the valves, along with a big C Clamp.

You may also want to replace your cam chain while your in there. Not a "must do" realizing your budget constraints. But, it could keep you from going back in there in a year or two to do it.

As to lapping, I know more than a few folks who lap valves by hand, no drill required. Also, when you finish lapping, make sure you get ALL of that compound out of there before you reassemble the head. That stuff is abrasive for a reason, but it don't care what it eats.

This is an easy motor to work on, so take your time, read all you can before moving to the next step, especially in the tech tips area on here. Ask questions on here also, do not be bashful about it. We all started off knowing jack crap about this stuff at one time, and soemone taught, showed, and explained it to us.

[CaptonZap]

From bitter experience, let me caution you about valve grinding compound from chain auto parts stores.
Compound comes in various grades, from course to fine. The stuff in a squeeze tube that I bought when I was not near my shop was about three grades to course. Might have worked on a Cummins valve, but with the width of the seat on these valves, you want fine. As in 400 grit.
As an alternative, since all you are trying to do is make sure that the valve is seating all the way around, and the seat has probably widened with wear, you might try some Old Dutch Cleanser or equal mixed with a dollop of oil, and use it as a compound to clean the existing seat, and to see if it is cleaning all the way around. It is mildly abrasive, but will not do to much metal removal.
And as has been stated, clean ALL of it out before assembling the valves. CZ

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Ok

You will probably want to clean the valve stems up of carbon build up. If you have access to a drill press, put the valve in the drill press at slow speed. Use a hacksaw blade turned teeth backwards and it will take the crap off the valve stem nicely.

Do replace the seals, pulling the valves is not that tough. Especailly if you already have the head off. Do a search for valve removal tool and you should find a PVC pipe tool more than a few have used to remove the valves, along with a big C Clamp.

You may also want to replace your cam chain while your in there. Not a "must do" realizing your budget constraints. But, it could keep you from going back in there in a year or two to do it.

As to lapping, I know more than a few folks who lap valves by hand, no drill required. Also, when you finish lapping, make sure you get ALL of that compound out of there before you reassemble the head. That stuff is abrasive for a reason, but it don't care what it eats.

This is an easy motor to work on, so take your time, read all you can before moving to the next step, especially in the tech tips area on here. Ask questions on here also, do not be bashful about it. We all started off knowing jack crap about this stuff at one time, and soemone taught, showed, and explained it to us.

Not trying to start a fight, just trying to give you the best advice from three decades of racing motor building experance. First, hacksaw blade to valve stem shaft? A drill press (or a drill held in a vice) and emerie cloth will clean with no chance of scratching it (just remove deposits, dont down size the stem). Next PVC pipe and c-clamp, might work but you can rent a valve spring compresses for a few $$ if you dont want to buy one. Yes, valves can be laped by hand but a good low speed drill will do a much better job, and I am sure you have one? Next, a very fine lapping compound is best, most bike/auto shops will have one, your not trying to "grind" just trying to improve the "Valve seat". I have ported and pollised and CC. many racing heads, most on cars, but the same differance Dont forget to de-burr the top of the valve before removing! Easy to do. Claen the head and valves before re-ass. a car pressure wash works nice for the head. Your call, Hacksaw blade, PVC pipe or the right stuff? It is your bike.

[DGXSER]

No fight picked, your methods are definitely the machine shop type method and mine were more the shade tree mechanic type methods.


Yep, hack saw blade with teeth reversed (note reversed, as in not cutting direction) works really well. Watched a fellow XSive do it on several motors. Actually less abrasive than the emory cloth, but I am sure that would work as well.

And yes, PVC pipe and a C clamp. I have not seen one deep enough for these heads for rent, but there may be somewhere, just not at my Autozone or Advance Auto parts stores. I do know a fellow who has bought the right tool, and likes it much better as it gives more open access to the keepers. But, I have used the PVC tool which is very cheap to make and not hard to use. I have an automotive valve compressor, not the same thing for these machines. The right tool is not alot different than a C-clamp really.

Like I stated no fight picked, just a difference of opinon on how gray and wide the line is of "right stuff".

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Didn't catch the "reversed tooth", (I need to put a breathalizer on my email LOL) must work OK if many on here have used it, my valve spring compressor "is like" a big C-clamp but the top is open so you can get to the keepers easly, especialy important when seating them on re-assambly. How do you guys get to them through the PVC? Just asking, no harm ment. I keep bringing that up cause it is easy to offend on here email, fokes can't see your when you say stuff.

[natemoen]

Didn't catch the "reversed tooth", (I need to put a breathalizer on my email LOL) must work OK if many on here have used it, my valve spring compressor "is like" a big C-clamp but the top is open so you can get to the keepers easly, especialy important when seating them on re-assambly. How do you guys get to them through the PVC? Just asking, no harm ment. I keep bringing that up cause it is easy to offend on here email, fokes can't see your when you say stuff.

Cut slots in the sides of the PVC.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Oem,

Well, I just reviewed the tech tip in the FORUM section, and it doesn't show the variation with the PVC or pipe section.

http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/tech-t...sion-tool.html

That one found from the drop down menus does show it, not great quality photos...done many years ago with a pathetic camera, but you can get the idea!

, The tech tip...shows a cut out section in the PVC pipe, about a 240 to 210 degree partial circle to keep the clamp and valve spring cap even, but the slot permits access to the keepers with a needle nose pliers or tweezers or such. This with a simple "C" clamp did work....finding a way to secure the pipe section to the C-clamp would be helpful so as not to worry about twisting and scratching the sidewall of the valve lifter chamber!

T.C.

[DGXSER]

No harm intended or taken. Good discussion is all.

You have the MC version I have seen but never used. I am not aware of any place to rent that tool though. All of mine work on leverage basis for auto work.

As to accessing the keepers with the PVC, you basically take a piece of 1" or 1-1/2" PVC pipe about 2" tall, the same diameter as the shims, and cut about 1/4 of it open all but the top 1/4" or so and glue a cap or plug on top of it. That is the access window to get to the keepers. It can be done, but the tool you suggested does give alot more access to the keepers. In the end it is basically the same thing as your tool, with a PVC pipe section instead of the steel area. PVC pipe being pretty cheap and often a small piece left from the last plumbing job is laying around anyway. So it is the poor man or shade tree version of the tool you have.

And again, I am a slooow typist it seems.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Ok?

Here is the type I use.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/c-type-valv...41&zmap=510065

Bottle of Jack Daniels $50

Carton of smokes $60

Having a nice new tool ($30) to make your life easy , Priceless