FINALLY! 1981 XS1100 Special

[newtoXS11]

To those who saw my old thread filled with drama about getting my first XS1100 I decided to just start a new one and leave the old post burried. I'll leave out the stuff about how difficult this whole process actually was to get this thing bought and in my driveway and just hit you with the pictures.

It could use a bit of touching up. The seller knocked off $200 because the tank has a lot of gasoline marks on it - I tried some rubbing compound to see if it'd work and lifted them off nicely but haven't finished yet. He REALLY wanted to use the saddlebags so he chopped and rewelded the Kerker exhaust so they would work. There's a metal frame underneath that's keeping them in place. The rear turn signals obviously wouldn't fit with the bags so they're in the bags with some relocation brackets.

It even has the original "security chain."

[exquized1]

Nice looking ride! Bet you will be on the road a lot now.

[DGXSER]

Very nice bike!! I have never seen the original security chain on one before!! I have the holder for one form my wrecked bike, but not the chain. That is a well preserved machine. Even has the GOLD emblems intact I see. ( A hint for some other folks...lol)

[Ken Talbot]

Even has the GOLD emblems intact I see. ( A hint for some other folks...lol)

Ah yes, but remember this is just a Special, not a Midnight Special. And, BTW, this is a very fine looking Special!

[newtoXS11]

With the exhaust it has there's a sportbike tone to it. Don't know if I like that or not, but it is what it is. I just tell people it's the only I4 shaft driven sportbike they'll ever see

I ran some lucas (Autozone's seafoam) through the gas tank (as I do with all new vehicles) and it didn't cough or toss any smoke whatsoever! I also went through the steps to adjust the cam chain tension and there was no change at all so I'm assuming it was already tight. Brake fluid and engine oil are fresh as of a few weeks ago... the seller said he took perfect care of this thing, and so far it seems true. Tires have maintained pressure for the last few days so that's all good too.

Aside from what I mentioned is there any other stuff I should check? Secret XS nooks and crannies to peer into, tighten, or tweak right off the bat under the assumption that the bike HASN'T been babied? Does anyone run seafoam or marvel mystery oil or lucas or anything else in the engine oil? I didn't want to assume it was okay to do so and end up destroying my new ride but if someone can vouch then additives it is!

Also, I can't seem to get the seat off. It pops up readily on the right side (almost like it SHOULD be locked down but isn't) but the left is stuck down good. I figured I'd ask if there's maybe a lock or switch or something that's hidden out of the way before I begin the great unboltening.

[planedick]

Mmo

I like to put some MMO in the gasoline now and then just to help lubricate the top end. Things like valve bushings, cylinder walls, etc.

[DGXSER]

Aside from what I mentioned is there any other stuff I should check? Secret XS nooks and crannies to peer into, tighten, or tweak right off the bat under the assumption that the bike HASN'T been babied? Does anyone run seafoam or marvel mystery oil or lucas or anything else in the engine oil? I didn't want to assume it was okay to do so and end up destroying my new ride but if someone can vouch then additives it is!

As to checking, I'd be sure to look at the middle drive gear oil level, its the plug on top of the drive, just above the shifter or there abouts. Also the final drive gear oil level. Change fork oil. If you look up member Catatonic Bug, he has alink to his personal website where he host the manuals to the bike. I'd go through the maintenance section front to back and check it all.

I have not run any seafoam or MMO in the crankcase. Most folks who do say not to drive it with that in there, only let it idle for a few and then change the oil as that stuff can thin the oil and kill the bearings.

Also, I can't seem to get the seat off. It pops up readily on the right side (almost like it SHOULD be locked down but isn't) but the left is stuck down good. I figured I'd ask if there's maybe a lock or switch or something that's hidden out of the way before I begin the great unboltening.

A couple trick mounts on the XS11, the seat is held on by bolts that slide into slots in the frame and then tightend, one on each side just behind the shock mounts.

Also, the left side cover is held on by a locking device. You have to look under the air box at about the bottom of the side cover. The lock faces the front of the bike. The ignition key should work it. Many an XS side cover has been broken by the lack of that little gem. And so the left side covers are the more hard to find items.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey New,

As been stated, get the downloadable service manuals. Also, check the LINKS forum, there's a PDF Owner's Manual for the 81 H/SH, scanned it myself from MY manual, will give you basic maintanence info and specs.

As stated, the cleaning type additives like MMO and such should only be added to the oil for an Idle to warm up temp, 5 minutes NO LOAD=NO Riding type running to help clean out varnish and such, but then drain and replace!

Due to wet clutches, other friction modifying additives "could" contribute to weakening/failure of the friction and grip of the clutches, so it's not recommended...neither is FULL synthetic for engine oil for same reasons. Synth is okay for middle/final drives though.

You may want to peek under the right side cover and closely inspect the fuseblock. The brass clips can age and get brittle, and fail without warning, so testing their spring action and tension would be good. Also the glass fuses can go bad even though they can look good...test by gripping ends and gently twisting to see if the end caps twist off, and then test with ohmeter.

Replacing it with a newer style solid ATCO type fuse block is a good way to prevent electrical gremlins from plagueing you! See tech tips for example and ordering info! Also, inspecting the electrical connections for corrosion and such...especially the 3 big white ones behind the fuseblock....for the ALT, can corrode and actually melt! The grounding wire for the battery on the down tube frame can corrode, but also the one on the back of the engine near the starter..to frame, clean, etc.!

Check your charging voltage...~12.0 at idle, then up to 14.5 at 2500+ rpm. Clean contacts for the case of the Vot. Reg/Rect under the tank, along with many of the other connectors in the harness!

Depending on if it was stored inside or outside, corrosion can also occur WITHIN the handlebar switches...so taking them off/apart for inspection, cleaning, etc, could be helpful.

Also, check and bleed the brake fluids, front and back.
T.C.

[jamak]

Finally! 1981 XS1100 Special

I don't know what you paid, but you scored a nice, clean ride there. Congratulations!
And you came to the right place for help and knowledgeable advice. I'm new to XS's myself, and these guys continue to amaze me at how willing they are to go out of their way to assist other owners. It's a great thing, and DGXER and Top Cat are among the best-although TC will tell you he's just a sidelines guy. The seat and left side cover mount and fuseblock are all spot on tips; my cover almost became one of the casualties DG spoke of. The fuseblock swap you can get from TC is the best/cheapest mod you can do to one of these-and it's easy.
You've got a good place to start. Good luck!

[81xsproject]

That is a great looking bike. As for things to do; I would change all the fluids, drain and refill the float bowls a couple of time to see if there is crap in there, and ride it if it's running good. I would also recommend doing the pickup coil wire fix BEFORE you start having a mystery problem that you will be just SURE is the carbs.